bad headgasket?

mytrucksucks

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this is going to be hard for me to explain but here i go. i noticed my trucks coolant cap has been whistling (head gasket failure sign). so i went and got a new one. and i thought everything was fine because this one didnt whistle at all. i checked it almost evrywhere i stopped and it never puked out coolant. i did an oil change that night as well. rotella t6 with rev-x for insurance down the road.( never had stiction issues) my injectors are a year old with 30k and are new ford remans built by rcd as 190cc 100%. i used a new motorcraft oil filter. and i let the truck run for a good 15 mins after the oil change. i let the truck sit over night and fired it up the next morning to warm it up to take my son to school. and noticed it didnt fire up on all cylinders. i then let the truck warm up watching it and it cleared up and was fine. i figured maybe the rev-x was clearing some nasty ***t up. i then took my son to school and drove back home. i poped the hood to check the new coolant cap was olding pressure and it wasn't whistling but coolant had come out of it and on everything else. so i figured id show my dad. i waited for my dad to show up (30 mins). i started the truck up and boom again the truck idling ruff. i wasnt expecting that. i then checked it with the auto engunity and #1 cylinder contrubution code. so i let the truck idle for a bit while i checked the oil and coolant. well theres a white milky residue in the oil and theres dirt flaky looking oil in the resivor. so that leads my to think i have a bad oil cooler. well that only a year old with the updated ford cooler. i have an egr/cooler delete and arp head studs. i have a coolant filter. can havng coolant in the oil make my injector go out like this? obviously i have a bad head gasket problem but does my cooler need replaced too? i got a quote $1600 to have the head gasket problems fixed ( useing oem gaskets this time. i just dont know weather to buy the oil cooler and call up rcd for one injector?
 

mytrucksucks

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yea i cant pass that up. they do all there trucks with cab on. its nkp performance in Rockville, IN. i just wish i would of had put the oem gaskets in before. so i just went out to my truck again and tried to start it but it was acting like it was firing but just didnt want to fire up but finally did, idled ruff as ***t. i let it idle for a bit then reved it up then it got better then reved it up some more got even better. continued this till it sounded normal. its just wierd that im getting stiction issues after rev-x. i even used 3 bottles when i did the oil change. obviously i know i cant drive the truck very far due to head gasket issues and oil in coolant and maybe coolant in oil. but why would this happen. never had a lick of problem with stiction or ruff idleing. the trucks got new ho adrenaline hpop. stand pipes and dummy plugs and icp sensor and pigtail. and im getting good 68 psi of fuel. should i be checking into getting a new injector or just get the head gaskets fixed and limp the truck along a see if the rev-x gets the stiction issue out of the injector after the heads are fixed or could it be an injector wiring harness?
 
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Big Angry Hillbilly

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Head gaskets for 1600 dollars worries me.

Done properly you're likely going to have nearly that in parts. (At least in Canada, the head sets aren't cheap here, but you're gonna need injector o-rings, intake set, oil cooler, cooling system flush/coolant, oil, filter, rocker box gaskets, the list goes on and on.)
 

powerstrokedkid87

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Thats a good price...but as said...worries me! Our headstuds jobs cost that in parts alone, but we do more than just studs and gaskets..something doesnt sound right.

I would definitly get those injectors checked out while there out of the truck, and without saying i would CERTAINLY get the heads checked.

Also i would go with a new oil cooler and screen for some extra insurance.
 

mytrucksucks

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i dont even have $1600. honestly id like to do this job myself. i know ill have to take the heads to a machine shop to check for flatness and whatnot. as far as gaskets and special tools what would i need. ive always worked on my own truck and feel preaty confident. (after my original hpop took a fall i installed new stand pipes and dummy plugs and a ho adrenaline hpop in a motel 6 parking lot 700 miles away from home). i just need a list of evey gasket and special tools to do this job.
 

Big Angry Hillbilly

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Atta boy on the pump in the parking lot lol.

Pm me your number and I will text ya. Last set of heads I did in the barn at a topsoil farm lol.
 

Big Angry Hillbilly

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I'd order a replacement spine.

You need an a/c machine to evacuate the ac system, 2-3/4" T40 or T45 torx bit to get the injectors out, full set of hand tools, brass scraper, ratchet wrenches are helpful, torches if you live in the rust belt, I'm sure there's tons more I'm forgetting.

Fwiw if I am doing them cab on, I take the cooling stack and bumper off to get at the engine. It makes things a lot more convenient.
 

mytrucksucks

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my backs already crap due to working on this truck. i just cant see dishing up money if i have the know how to fix it. i havent seen any videos online about bad black onyx gaskets. i think im going to make a start to finish video on this job. im sure everyone knows what it all looks like but ill post progress pics then a final couple videos.
 

DSTRYER

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Yeah, recomend the oem gaskets on these, that $1600 price include decking? If not, that's probably why its so cheap. just my .02
 

mytrucksucks

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i dont know if it in cludes decking but im not doing for $1600. full gasket kit for $600 and get heads checked out is $300. plus i trust my own work over anyone elses. as far as torquing the heads with the arp's ive got what does everyone think with the arp lube torqued to 210? or should i go more?
 

DSTRYER

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210 should be fine, if i remember correctly, mine are torqued to that and i have been running for over a year on them.
 

Big Angry Hillbilly

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Depends on what kind of lube.

The old ARP lube was torqued to 245. The new lube is 210.

Should be a notice in the box with the studs.
 

mytrucksucks

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ok i ordered the new lube and all the gaskets all oem. what lube should i prep the block with and should i use the brass scrper or m3 pads or what?
 

Big Angry Hillbilly

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Clean block with brass scraper and brake clean. At most use those plastic finger discs that 3M makes, but white or yellow (I can't remember which is less abrasive).
 

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