BOV's.....?

haulin99sdp

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so i am wanting to drill and tap my 38r 1.0 housing for a BOV....

what size blow off would i need to go with? what blow off valves is everyone using and how hard are they to adjust? i eventaullay want to put somthing in front of this 38r........

TIA!!!
 

907DAVE

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I have no information, just a couple questions:

Have you decided you do not want to run an actual gate, and why?

Were/ how do you plan on venting these gasses?
 

haulin99sdp

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i dont want a gate because the housing i already have is a non wg and i have heard and seen bad things from them like blowing open and bleeding off.......
as for where to vent the bov i am jus assuming it will vent into the atmosphere.....
hopeing to see someone with more info on the subject will chime in...... hopeing to have the turbo at least on the truck in time for ts........
 

MossBack

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The wastegate relieves the drive pressure which is the problem not the intake pressure.

Gasoline engines use bov 's because the air flow is regulated to control rpm. Hense the butterfly vavle on the intake manifold. Whereas a diesel is regulated via fuel delivery / injection.

In theory you could put it on but will not safely vent the pressure that harms diesel's ie drive pressure / cylinder pressure.

I hope I have related it to you as it is in my head.




Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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The BOV that I have on the 250, is installed on the hot side pipe, between the hp turbo, and the intercooler. Other than my 6.4 being compound, and your guys being singles, I dont think much would be different. Like stated above, it is not intended to relieve drive pressure, or do much to drop EBP, but rather keep from barking your turbo when you drop off the throttle suddenly. When the boost reference drops too quickly, like when you are deep in the throttle, and someone pulls out in front of you, the BOV opens, and makes a loud WHOOSH, and safely returns your turbo to a lower speed, without the air forcing its way back through the turbo vanes...

def not to be used, or confused, with the actions or properties of a wastgate.
 

907DAVE

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He wants a pressure relief valve in his exhaust, sorta like a hillbilly wastegate.
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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He wants a pressure relief valve in his exhaust, sorta like a hillbilly wastegate.

LOL right on... I think a wastegate would be about the same cost. my BOV was 700 bones.... then fabbing some way to attach it to the housing.... I would just get a wastegate kit, and have it vent into the downpipe...
 

Worstenemy453

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IF you want the safest possible set-up then run both. Wastegate to control EBP and BOV to control turbo bark. Really not needed though. Get a quality wastegate.
 

907DAVE

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LOL right on... I think a wastegate would be about the same cost. my BOV was 700 bones.... then fabbing some way to attach it to the housing.... I would just get a wastegate kit, and have it vent into the downpipe...


He could add a quality gate for way less than that, including materials.

But i agree, a wastegate is the better option.
 

golfer

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But seriously... This is a bad idea... I don't think anyone has stated this...

I completely agree..
geezus...

BOV's are only needed (or really applicable) on an engine that has an intake throttle plate, to vent the turbo BOOST (not drive pressure) when the plate closes quickly (ie, during a shift on a hard run)..and prevent the turbo from slowing (from the boost 'backing up' in the compressor outlet/intercooler pipe(s) WHEN the throttle plate is closed)...

since 7.3L's don't have a throttle plate....a BOV would be pointless.

later 6.0L's and 6.4's do have something similar to a throttle plate (intake butterfly valve)...which make a BOV an option..but on a 7.3L????????? negatron.
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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How do you control when the BV is opened

Vacuum. LOL
As stated, vacuum. The valve is a can, with a spring in it, that is forcing the valve open, so as to relieve pressure. The one I have, will drop boost down to below 10psi. So, if it sticks, you will still be able to drive, just not very hard. and your EGTs will likely be high as well. The top is a counter spring, attached to a boost reference fitting. As long as the boost reference is unobstructed (normal or hard driving, all lines operating properly) the valve will stay shut, allowing normal operation. Once the boost reference plummets, the forces that were holding the spring/valve closed, are no longer there, and it opens the valve, relieving pressure.
But seriously... This is a bad idea... I don't think anyone has stated this...

I have never heard of doing this either, but I dont imagine it being a great idea. especially with the cost difference being so small.... I wouldnt do it.....
 

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