Built motor options

Arisley · Mar 11, 2015

Thuglike said:
24586.....in 2006. :jawdrop:

I actually remember when that happened.

TyCorr · Mar 11, 2015

It was still new when I first came around. He had blown the original motor up and the built motor was in but I can't remember what injectors were in it.

Vader's Fury · Mar 11, 2015

250/200's if I remember correctly.

TyCorr · Mar 11, 2015

Vader's Fury said:
250/200's if I remember correctly.

I didn't think those were in it all the time.

Dmstrucks02 · Mar 11, 2015

I love my truck but I don't know if I can put a $20k motor in it..
I'm getting injectors shortly and a little undecided on what I want, but I guess I'll just hope she lives for another 100k

Mr.BigOil · Mar 11, 2015

psduser1 said:
Depends on the condition of everything around the engine. Im seeing relatively stock, very good trucks go for 10-ocassionally 20k. Right buyer, who know?

95 Crewcab has 136k on the clock and the 97 has 110k on the clock. Both twin turbo.

psduser1 · Mar 12, 2015

Mr.BigOil said:
95 Crewcab has 136k on the clock and the 97 has 110k on the clock. Both twin turbo.

I'd love the power source, but no on the obs, lol

bruce · Mar 12, 2015

Thuggy sold the entire truck like a year ago for somethin like 25k, I guess that engine was a solid investment.

thuglike · Mar 12, 2015

I have zero complaints!!!!

She was a fun gal.
Still kickin' from my understanding as well.

Hotrodtractor · Mar 12, 2015

Not sure what I would add at this point. There is a lot of paths that could be taken. Not sure I would choose the built motor path for an occasional spurt at 550rwhp - that seems like a waste. Good compression forged rod motor with seasoned head gaskets and good parts/tuning will last a long time under those conditions. Pick up a spare to keep in your garage and enjoy the money you saved.

No if you want to go compounds and want them to be super responsive down low.... you might have issues.

Decisions like this are tough on people and wallets.

psduser1 · Mar 12, 2015

Mostly wallets, lol.

mattman347 · Mar 12, 2015

Hotrodtractor said:
Not sure what I would add at this point. There is a lot of paths that could be taken. Not sure I would choose the built motor path for an occasional spurt at 550rwhp - that seems like a waste. Good compression forged rod motor with seasoned head gaskets and good parts/tuning will last a long time under those conditions. Pick up a spare to keep in your garage and enjoy the money you saved.

No if you want to go compounds and want them to be super responsive down low.... you might have issues.

Decisions like this are tough on people and wallets.

WHS^ I just add my air "up top"... Second stage this year just in case. I have a spare engine in the garage for a back up . Problem with a "built" engine is they can still have issues not even related to the build itself but tuning, injector nozzles ect.

TyCorr · Mar 12, 2015

Hotrodtractor said:
Not sure what I would add at this point. There is a lot of paths that could be taken. Not sure I would choose the built motor path for an occasional spurt at 550rwhp - that seems like a waste. Good compression forged rod motor with seasoned head gaskets and good parts/tuning will last a long time under those conditions. Pick up a spare to keep in your garage and enjoy the money you saved.

No if you want to go compounds and want them to be super responsive down low.... you might have issues.

Decisions like this are tough on people and wallets.

I thoroughly appreciate your response! I know you have been here. You have done this. I have no doubts my 280k mile fr motor will last if I don't change anything. But I do wanna turn up the wick, lol.

I know there are no guarantees. I'd like to think a properly selected block and heads with a 1/2 fill and some good parts would last as long as a stock motor has with little more than tuning.

My thing is I've been driving duramaxes for work and I run them up to 200k every two to three years. Got a new 14 in early July and it's tickling 60k..they are fine for work trucks. The interiors are junk!! The lbz was the last solid, complete package. Their leather is decent but then you get that goofy car dash and controls.

The 6.4s are showing their age. Those interiors look pretty Un modern now with 6.7s on the lots.

There's my conundrum, for the money, would I be just as happy with a setup similar to Dom (02 big d) and no new truck? Or should I jump ship like everybody is? Yes it is easy to toss a warranty voider on a 6.7 and have 500ish hp modern truck. But 65 grand later (assuming I don't leave it completely stock) I've got the same power. Leather seat covers, a new stereo, and a gone through engine is a third of a new truck in cost. And there is less guarantee on the 6.7 bottom end.

Decisions decisions.

Fwiw, I got hurt and am wondering how capable I'll be to work on this stuff in the future. But I still need a truck. Maybe a cleaned up 7.3 is a good choice to keep parked in the barn for when I need a truck.

lincolnlocker · Mar 12, 2015

TyCorr said:
I thoroughly appreciate your response! I know you have been here. You have done this. I have no doubts my 280k mile fr motor will last if I don't change anything. But I do wanna turn up the wick, lol.

I know there are no guarantees. I'd like to think a properly selected block and heads with a 1/2 fill and some good parts would last as long as a stock motor has with little more than tuning.

My thing is I've been driving duramaxes for work and I run them up to 200k every two to three years. Got a new 14 in early July and it's tickling 60k..they are fine for work trucks. The interiors are junk!! The lbz was the last solid, complete package. Their leather is decent but then you get that goofy car dash and controls.

The 6.4s are showing their age. Those interiors look pretty Un modern now with 6.7s on the lots.

There's my conundrum, for the money, would I be just as happy with a setup similar to Dom (02 big d) and no new truck? Or should I jump ship like everybody is? Yes it is easy to toss a warranty voider on a 6.7 and have 500ish hp modern truck. But 65 grand later (assuming I don't leave it completely stock) I've got the same power. Leather seat covers, a new stereo, and a gone through engine is a third of a new truck in cost. And there is less guarantee on the 6.7 bottom end.

Decisions decisions.

Fwiw, I got hurt and am wondering how capable I'll be to work on this stuff in the future. But I still need a truck. Maybe a cleaned up 7.3 is a good choice to keep parked in the barn for when I need a truck.

ill sell ya my 6.7 for 65k when i get whitey back running right!

live life full throttle

DocBar · Mar 12, 2015

After getting my initial issues (electrical in nature) taken care of, I've been very happy with my truck. I'm not a fan of DI tuning, but I have no complaints about the motor David built me. I do DD my truck and I never get into the go pedal when it's cold.

I highly suggest going the expensive route and buying at least a built short block. I wish my block had been filled, so I would suggest talking to Dave at Swamps. The devil truly is in the details, so why risk it? Buy built and have some peace of mind.

TyCorr · Mar 13, 2015

lincolnlocker said:
ill sell ya my 6.7 for 65k when i get whitey back running right!

live life full throttle

No thanks. That thing is wore out already.

Im going platinum or 7.3...or an lbz cclb if I can find one with 30k miles on it. Solid axle swap, efi live, compounds, and done. Id have wehrli do all the work most likely on the dmax.

Jason · Mar 13, 2015

Maaaaaaaan. My grandpa passed away back in December of 2013. He had a 2007 classic body ccsb duramax, bone stock, no tint etc...it's 4 wheel drive, red with black interior aaaaaaand...about 40k miles. I'd love to get my hands on that thing, but my grandma will not part with it. I hate to admit it, but I really like those trucks.

ja_cain · Mar 13, 2015

I say be patient and look for an lbz. Solid front axle conversion would probably make those trucks just about perfect (not sure about cab size for a tall guy like you though). My buddy wanted one some kind of bad but just got too impatient and ended up buying 90's 2wd drw with the 454. He was really hung up on the CCLB 2wd drw configuration so he could lower it easily (gay) and maybe that's why he couldn't find one. Not sure if that is a very sought after or uncommon configuration for those trucks.

Black 02 · Mar 13, 2015

DocBar said:
I highly suggest going the expensive route and buying at least a built short block. I wish my block had been filled, so I would suggest talking to Dave at Swamps. The devil truly is in the details, so why risk it? Buy built and have some peace of mind.

I was one phone call away from going with Dave for my built engine. My god what I'd give for a Delorian time machine....... :fustrate::fustrate::fustrate:

Hotrodtractor · Mar 13, 2015

TyCorr said:
No thanks. That thing is wore out already.

Im going platinum or 7.3...or an lbz cclb if I can find one with 30k miles on it. Solid axle swap, efi live, compounds, and done. Id have wehrli do all the work most likely on the dmax.

Maybe you just need to buy Nessy. lol