Codes from Hell!!!

[DocBar]

Last Friday, I did a hard WOT run on my truck and pulled the following codes:
P0344-camshaft position sensor circuit intermittent
P0541- Manifold Intake Air Heater (non-issue)
P0571-Brake Svdtch A Circuit Malfunction
P0603-Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P0605-Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error
P0703-Brake Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P1142-Fuel flow restriction??
P1209-Injection Control System Pressure Peak Fault
P1282- Excessive ICP
P1744-Torque Converter Clutch System Performance
P1780-TCS Circuit Out of self Test Range
I got this one the next day
P0470-Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
I get a P0232 code several times a week.

I just had a BTS 4R100 put in and have about 1,000 miles on it.

Today, the truck started getting hard to start. Slow cranking and shuddering before it would start. It hunts for its idle a bit then settles down and runs fine. I'm thinking CPS on this. I have a crappy grey one in the glovebox and will be finding me a black one ASAP.

Any ideas? Should I hit the panick button?

I'll be pulling a 12K# 5th wheel to Georgia in the next few days. I hope.

 

[ToMang07]

I would put in a new CPS, check the ICP, and clear all the codes and see what comes back

 

[Big Bore]

That thing is throwing everything. I would be inclined to pull chip (key off, key OUT) check all connections (Batt/PCM/IDM/VC/UVC) clear codes, start and drive, check for codes.

 

[Derek@Vision Diesel]

Clear codes, replace CPS with a grey with purple o-ring or a black one.

Fire up the truck and see what codes come back. I would bet some of those are mystery codes you will never see again

 

[TARM]

When I see a bunch of unrelated code pop out of no where I go looking at wiring harness and usually start with looking at the main ground wire connections.

 

[davey99ps]

Given the lack of performance you were having before, I'd do like Tarm said an check all electrical connections an go from there

 

[neverkickn]

sucks man...I have nothing to add but a "hope you find it easy"

 

[TARM]

Start with your main ground connections as those are easy. If you do not have a multimeter get one. But look at their physical state. If they are rusted up or have broken strands etc replace or cut, clean up, get a bare surface and remount. Then go check all the various main connection points in the harness.

I believe the purple one was shown to negatively effect some things. Its been a long while since the tests were done so I could be wrong on this. But IIRC someone over on the TDS did a some testing with each one of the various CPs in there. Only the black came out looking good. Like I said I am not 100% sure. Maybe the purple was still better than the grey??

 

[DocBar]

Start with your main ground connections as those are easy. If you do not have a multimeter get one. But look at their physical state. If they are rusted up or have broken strands etc replace or cut, clean up, get a bare surface and remount. Then go check all the various main connection points in the harness.

I believe the purple one was shown to negatively effect some things. Its been a long while since the tests were done so I could be wrong on this. But IIRC someone over on the TDS did a some testing with each one of the various CPs in there. Only the black came out looking good. Like I said I am not 100% sure. Maybe the purple was still better than the grey??

I've looked at the grounds and they are good. I went over them very thoroughly when I was having electrical issues. All of my harness connections are solid. I just changed the oil. I was about 3k miles and it was a few quarts low. I seem to get a lot of blow by when I first start the truck. I'll be doing the CCV mod shortly to see just how much.

When I did the hard WOT run, there was a LOT of tire spin and getting sideways on the road. I wonder how much that has to do with anything. It's also the 1st time I've done that in the race setting. It was a-w-e-s-o-m-e. Until I had a bazillion codes pop up. The funny thing is that I never got a CEL. I just regularly check for codes with my SCT programmer.

I start a new job on Monday in Georgia, so I'll buy AE once I get there and maybe I can talk Charles into educating me on it.

 

[TARM]

Wow 3 quarts in 3K so 1 quart per 1K. Either you are getting a TON of blowby or you have something leaking somewhere.

What does your oil fill tube look like when its all warmed up? Is it puff puff puff puff smoke out of the tube? If you put your hand over it can you feel the pressure pulsing even it slightly on your hand?

I think I would want to know what that oil issue is from first. How many miles is on the motor?

Maybe take a video of you fill tube with the cap off when it's warm so we can see it.

Sure you have not visible leaks that are ending up on the ground under it?

 

[Derek@Vision Diesel]

This motor was fresh from DI wasnt it??? Or am i thinking of someone else

 

[DocBar]

Wow 3 quarts in 3K so 1 quart per 1K. Either you are getting a TON of blowby or you have something leaking somewhere.

What does your oil fill tube look like when its all warmed up? Is it puff puff puff puff smoke out of the tube? If you put your hand over it can you feel the pressure pulsing even it slightly on your hand?

I think I would want to know what that oil issue is from first. How many miles is on the motor?

Maybe take a video of you fill tube with the cap off when it's warm so we can see it.

Sure you have not visible leaks that are ending up on the ground under it?

I get a steady puff puff out of the dipstick tube and a steady flow out of the fill cap. The fill cap vibrates off, doesn't blow off.

I mentioned a LOT of oil in the hot and cold side intercooler boot to DI and was told that was normal. I haven't put my hand over it.

 

[907DAVE]

How many miles on the motor?

Its common for higher oil consumption/ blowby on a fresh motor. Once the rings seat it will get better.

 

[DocBar]

How many miles on the motor?

Its common for higher oil consumption/ blowby on a fresh motor. Once the rings seat it will get better.

About 18K miles.

 

[TARM]

?

Steady flow is OK most of the time.

What is a concern is all the oil you are using. New motors tend to have more blowby until rings seat and things seal up but a quart every 1k is a bit much IMO.

Venting CCV to the intake: I personally do not want my engine crapping where it eats so sorry no blowby going into my intake. I think it can neg effect the IC. Just my opinion on that. But I do not want all over my boots leaking into the sealed areas so they start blowing off or if they are stock one it degrades the silicon. IH designed them to vent to atmosphere but Ford put them to the intake to keep all the tree-huggers from whining. They still whine so it was pointless IMO.

 

[TARM]

If it still not getting better in another 10-15K I would start to be concerned.

But then that is the catch with diesels. They take much longer to break in and seal but if you only get a 30K warranty its over before you ever can know thru basics diagnosis if the build was done sloppy or not.

I would still vent that CCV to the air and not fillup my IC with all that oil. I don;t give a crap if it "normal" or not. IMO its not a good thing just because its normal.


I am switching where my CCV vents to after some moving around to see where it was best. I think I am going right down the front cover just to below the bottom pull. The fan catches smoke and almost completely disperses it. All the other places you have a little smoke coming out that draws attention at times and I personally do not like.

 

[neverkickn]

I think I am going right down the front cover just to below the bottom pull. The fan catches smoke and almost completely disperses it.

That's a really good idea!!!

 

[Derek@Vision Diesel]

Try venting it into a foam filled coke bottle, poke some holes in it obviously, and empty the oil out when it gets full.

Seems to work pretty good with very little smell or fumes noticeable

 

[DocBar]

Try venting it into a foam filled coke bottle, poke some holes in it obviously, and empty the oil out when it gets full.

Seems to work pretty good with very little smell or fumes noticeable

I'm going to vent mine to a 2" or 3" pvc cap that's vented for the same purpose.

 

[TARM]

I had a very nice catch can made and it does work but you still have smoke but you do not get any real oil drips. I used very fine 0000 SS mesh in the top 1/2. The CCV tube enters in the middle of the can and it exits out the top there is a ball vavle at the bottom for drainage. The oil vapors come in just below the mesh. It travels up thru the mesh which gives it tons of small surface area to collect until it forms a large enough drop to fall or run down the sides to the bottom where it collects and waits to be drained. The vapor hopefully minus a large % of the oil goes out the top and then down infront of the engine where it will exit. Nice part is as it travels back up from the catch can any oil that forms in the tube drains back into the can. Only the short section that turns down at the front of the engine would be able to collect any remaining oil and form a drip but its significantly decreases so I doubt I would get any drips that would be there when parked.

I have pulled it all part to figure out this routing business and now it will go back on in a location that will work best to have the final route down the front of the engine.


The issue I have with using foam is as it gets oil soaked it starts to create BP and it take so very little to create issues.