Cracked block question.

Stroked777 · Mar 17, 2015

So I was thinking and my current block has a lifter stuck in it and caused the block to crack around the lifter area. My question is if I could get the lifter out is possible/ plausible to run the motor with no worries? Or use the block for a build to support 800hp+? Worst comes to worst, could you sleeve where the lifter is? Thanks

webb06 · Mar 17, 2015

Post pics of said crack....how is the lifter "stuck"??

ghohouston · Mar 17, 2015

I've never heard of sleeving anything other than a piston bore in a block... could be wrong though

Stroked777 · Mar 17, 2015

The lifer got mushroomed at the bottom and won't come out the block. Thus when the am profile came around for the intake stroke is pushed up on the lifter and cracked the block

uncool · Mar 18, 2015

Scrap metal. Use it to plant flowers.

If the lifter bore was scared, you could have it bored and sleeved. Crackedit will never be the same.

Stroked777 · Mar 18, 2015

I think I'm gunna get a good block and transfer over everything except Pistons and a cam, pistons have valve imprints and the cam is shot. So I'll ypgrade pistons and aunt have clave reliefs cut for a big cam and then get new heads and bearings and install in the truck for now until I get dual fuelers, and a single kit. Is it a good idea to transfer everything over as long as I freshen up bearings? Thinking about a gapless second ring as well. What else should I do?

sootie · Mar 18, 2015

Good plan.

have the rods checked for straightness. new oil cooler and lifters. check the front cover for cavitation behind the water pump.

ceramic coat the pistons.

you already have newish rockers and upgraded valvetrain.

Stroked777 · Mar 18, 2015

Yeah I sold my push rods. I just have to buy new ones. I have everything else besides heads. You think stock rods will be good for 800hp on a single turbo? Not so much low end torque

sootie · Mar 18, 2015

Stroked777 said:
Yeah I sold my push rods. I just have to buy new ones. I have everything else besides heads. You think stock rods will be good for 800hp on a single turbo? Not so much low end torque

rods shouldnt be an issue

Stroked777 · Mar 18, 2015

Anything else I'm missing? Like I said I'm gunna upgrade the Pistons and have them delipped, valve reliefed, zero gap second ring, and coated. Any reviews come out yet on. The performance lifter side action diesel released? Will my arp stud be good for 800hp? What else should I do. I wanna do it right. Build the bottom end and add power down the road. I just want the truck running as soon as it can but with a bottom end built already

powerstroked08 · Mar 18, 2015

Forgetting the cumapart swap?

Stroked777 · Mar 18, 2015

Yeah I just want the dam truck running. And my fiancé (she's the best) said, "a 800hp cummins isn't inpressive, a 800hp Powerstroke is impressive" and she is right so I changed my mind. I smartened up lol

powerstroked08 · Mar 18, 2015

She's a good girl! Welcome back to the Ford camp!

Stroked777 · Mar 18, 2015

I appericate the open arm reception. Glad to be back lol

Stroked777 · Mar 18, 2015

Just did a little pricing and if I do everything my self it will be under 8k and that's estimating 2k for a good bare block. Everything else pricing it out for a built long block was gunna be double

webb06 · Mar 18, 2015

Stroked777 said:
Just did a little pricing and if I do everything my self it will be under 8k and that's estimating 2k for a good bare block. Everything else pricing it out for a built long block was gunna be double

You can almost buy a brand new ford block for $2000. You can easily find a block for less than $1000

slc dzl · Mar 18, 2015

Check ksl.
I find used 6.4 engines all the time for under 2k

Stroked777 · Mar 19, 2015

I didn't know you can buy just the block from ford. Thanks for the tip! I'll probably go the route if I can get a bare block from the dealer here. Or maybe order it from sunrise