Crank, start, slow idle, then dies

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 8, 2016

Started my truck up this morning and it kind of loped funny every couple of seconds between 700 and 600. Drove off thinking it was just because it snowed last night. Started to run fine then I parked it and changed the bumpers. Hopped back in it drove off and reverse wouldn't work initially then after continuing driving it worked(don't know if that's an applicable symptom). Parked in my driveway and tried to start it an hour later and it would start idle at 500 roughly then die a couple seconds later. No lights on the dash, no check engine, slightly flashed oil light after the second try. Checked oil and seems like it hasn't lost anything. Recently got new turbos and head studs about 2000 miles ago. Has 170k on the truck and ~30k on the new motor. Any ideas?

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 8, 2016

Also felt sluggish at low end then would snap to 20lbs of boost and pull

6.0 Tech · Mar 8, 2016

Sounds fuel related, check your primary filter for gelling maybe
Did it get cold enough for that?

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 9, 2016

Doubtful the coldest we've seen is 10-20 degrees. I'm sure the fuel filters were changed when they heads were off and it was getting studs and a turbo.... Wouldn't it?

6.0 Tech · Mar 9, 2016

Its hard to tell if they wouldor not. I dont know the shop who did it, so i cant tell you. You can always pull the secondary out and see if it looks clean or not, but this issue does sound fuel related. It happens quite a bit when people chane their own filters and dont get the system bled. It will run till it runs the pump and housing out of fuel yhen it will die. It will sometimes start for a second or two then die as well.

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 10, 2016

I'm sure you're right, rechecked shop order and here was no mention of fuel filters so I'm just going to change and see what happens

6.0 Tech · Mar 11, 2016

Good luck buddy

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 21, 2016

Update: fuel filters changed finally. Primed then attempted to start, held 500 rpm for a minute at most then lugs down to 250-300 and then dies. No codes being thrown oil level seems normal, just left the shop 2500 miles ago with a clean bill of health. Bad k16?

6.0 Tech · Mar 21, 2016

How did you prime it? Try cracking the rear most banjo bolt on the fuel cooler while someone cranks it over. It will make a hell of a mess, but you most likely will see air spitting out of it. It shoukd start, then tighten it down with it still running. Or if you can get ahold of a cummins banjo bolt with a schrader valve in it, remove the core and run some hose to a milk jug or something, and do the same thing. Less messy that way.

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 21, 2016

By cycling the key 5 times for 30 seconds per the ford Manual. It's the way I've done it before but I will give your method a shot.

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 21, 2016

Successfully holding 750 rpm but whenever I give it throttle and let off it chokes down to 500 rpm or lower and feels like it will die. Still no codes. Any ideas? Noise in can is different sounds as if there might be an air issue As it is whooshing" with the throttle. Found one code P1260 which is PATS.

6.0 Tech · Mar 21, 2016

Is the egr system intact? It could be a slightly stuck open egr valve i guess.

The whooshing sound may also have something to do with it, ive had hard starts with a cac tube left off, and a no start with yhe airbox out.

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 22, 2016

The problem arose after about 2500 miles of trouble free driving and the egr system has been gone for the entire life of the engine. Whooshing just seems like the engine fan is spinning excessively. Still battling with engine rpm dying after letting off the throttle

6.0 Tech · Mar 22, 2016

Is the wrench light coming on? Maybe try checking the 3 connectors on the drivers side inner fender and make sure they are tight. One is light gray with a hinge for a locking tab, one is black with a hinge for a lockijg tab, and the other is black and a normal round inline connector. They sit right above the spring. The ones with the hinges like to break and not lock down really tight.

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 22, 2016

Unhooked battery cables and let it sit for 10 minutes now it clicks with no crank or start and Gauges all "stutter" and shake at below zero. Also can here clicking from my tuner and passenger glove box area

6.0 Tech · Mar 23, 2016

Did you get the batteries hooked up tight? That sounds like a voltage issue.

Wyo6.4KingRanch · Mar 23, 2016

Got everything hooked us tighter than chit. Cleaned well. Smashed the top of the instrument cluster and it stated working right away. Drove for an hour with no sign of any ill effects. Stopped and came back out and got click with no start then after a few love "taps" to the top of the dash the 500 rpm sputter stall returned. Reloaded tune and drove truck to ford for them to run a full diagnostics. Hate to do it but I don't have the time or space to play around with it where I'm at as I don't have a shop.