Cummins swap

95-SimpsonOBS · Jul 9, 2012

Matt_P said:
haha Exactly! Its very time consuming and due to that its easy to lose motivation, especially when its supposed to be your DD

Matt_P said:
Yeah the thing with me too was that i wanted to say I built it myself as well and with some help from friends. If thats what youd like to be able to say as well just prepare for a good amount of downtime on your truck, I thought I would have mine done in a month... that was 6 months ago

Was it going with a p-pumped 24 valve that caused a ton of issues or just the whole project to begin with? I was looking at your buil thread a little and it seemed like when yuou started you werent going as big as you did, what made you go balls to the wall with such a huge build? How much time was spent in the machine shop?

jkidd_39 said:
It's a big project and very expensive.. My project is currently a rolling chassis.. and I don't have my cummins built yet and I'm prob 6k deep.

I will have about 30k in the project once it's all said and done. But I built it with my own hands... that was my motivation. There are quite a few shops close to you that could do the convo for reasonable.. autoworld and ford cummins are both in Montana

Do you have a build thread for this project? Are you going with a full built engine right off the bat or going to do the conversion then build it as you go? If I do this it will be done by me and some friends.

Matt_P · Jul 9, 2012

95-SimpsonOBS said:
Was it going with a p-pumped 24 valve that caused a ton of issues or just the whole project to begin with? I was looking at your buil thread a little and it seemed like when yuou started you werent going as big as you did, what made you go balls to the wall with such a huge build? How much time was spent in the machine shop?

The p pump 24v in general didint cause a lot of issues. Originally that engine with the VP was supposed to be a good running engine I could just drop in, I had no plans of having to rebuild the entire engine which was a huge setback. But I figured there would be no better time to p pump it than while its all apart so it made no extra work there. Unfortunately every used part I had seemed to malfunction so I switched from just a mild build to if Im gonna do it, do it right and how I want it. Which led to the built trans, engine work, and all the modifications. I wanted it to be the truck id want to get from the factory and have it all brand new because I figured it would be more worth it in the end. This just got a little carried away with the build before I knew it.
I had about three weeks in the machine shop for the head and block and about 900 bucks

jkidd_39 · Jul 9, 2012

Here is my main thread.. As it gets closer to getting the engine in I will start a thread on here.. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1014627-cummins-conversion-build.html

It will actually be an 05 engine in an 05 truck so it can be sold in CA.

Basically it will be a fully built engine.. 12v rods, 03-04 pistons decked .030. Girdle. fully cryo'd.

Twin CP3s with 300hp injectors. Thinking of going with a 66mm charger over an 88.

BTS Tranny.

95-SimpsonOBS · Jul 10, 2012

Matt_P said:
The p pump 24v in general didint cause a lot of issues. Originally that engine with the VP was supposed to be a good running engine I could just drop in, I had no plans of having to rebuild the entire engine which was a huge setback. But I figured there would be no better time to p pump it than while its all apart so it made no extra work there. Unfortunately every used part I had seemed to malfunction so I switched from just a mild build to if Im gonna do it, do it right and how I want it. Which led to the built trans, engine work, and all the modifications. I wanted it to be the truck id want to get from the factory and have it all brand new because I figured it would be more worth it in the end. This just got a little carried away with the build before I knew it.
I had about three weeks in the machine shop for the head and block and about 900 bucks

What trans did you go with if you dont mind me asking? sorry for all the questions, just curious

jkidd_39 said:
Here is my main thread.. As it gets closer to getting the engine in I will start a thread on here.. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1014627-cummins-conversion-build.html

It will actually be an 05 engine in an 05 truck so it can be sold in CA.

Basically it will be a fully built engine.. 12v rods, 03-04 pistons decked .030. Girdle. fully cryo'd.

Twin CP3s with 300hp injectors. Thinking of going with a 66mm charger over an 88.

BTS Tranny.

Off topic but wont a 66mm be too big to run on a 5.9 and still maintain decent towing capability???

Powerstroked162 · Jul 10, 2012

95-SimpsonOBS said:
What trans did you go with if you dont mind me asking? sorry for all the questions, just curious

Off topic but wont a 66mm be too big to run on a 5.9 and still maintain decent towing capability???

47re and no, not if you buy a decent charger.

jkidd_39 · Jul 10, 2012

95-SimpsonOBS said:
Off topic but wont a 66mm be too big to run on a 5.9 and still maintain decent towing capability???

It can be done with the proper set up. I think with a cam and port work I can stay on top of the charger for towing..

However this truck will never tow. This is a drag toy.. I got all work trucks.. time for something that is more fun than work

Deputydog · Jul 18, 2012

I ran a 66mm single for about a year and loved it.. I ended up going with twin turbos and selling the 66.

When I was researching conversions, I was sold on doing a 12v. I even found a motor and purchsed it and had it ready to go. I ended up doing a CR after thinking more about it. I knew this would be my DD so I wanted something a bit more quiet and liked the idea of adjustability (aka a tuner). Once you get your 12v setup, you're stuck with whatever you did.

If money is important then yes the 12v is going to be cheaper. Stay with the 47 or 48 trans and then you can avoid the cost of adapter plates, flex plates and controllers.

If you need help Jeff, always glad to lend a hand!

Matt_P · Jul 18, 2012

Powerstroked162 said:
47re and no, not if you buy a decent charger.

:whs: I got the 47 built too, and Im hoping to be able to tow with the 66 I put on my truck

Dockboy · Jul 18, 2012

Countryboy07 said:
12V's are by far easier to swap in

Why do you say that?

The parts/combo you choose is really going to be based on how you plan on using the truck.

If you are the type that needs instructions and just wants to bolt things together, a swap would be a nightmare and you would be better off having a shop do it if that is what you wanted.

If you enjoy figuring things out, fabbing your own stuff and challenging yourself, then it is a fun project.

Just remember, there are no "kits", there is no instruction manual, and there is no "one way" to do it as every single one will be different.

In general, be prepared to spend a min. of $10,000 not including any engine mods and anywhere from 2-6 months depending on how much time you have to work on it

Deputydog · Jul 18, 2012

Dockboy said:
Why do you say that?

The parts/combo you choose is really going to be based on how you plan on using the truck.

If you are the type that needs instructions and just wants to bolt things together, a swap would be a nightmare and you would be better off having a shop do it if that is what you wanted.

If you enjoy figuring things out, fabbing your own stuff and challenging yourself, then it is a fun project.

Just remember, there are no "kits", there is no instruction manual, and there is no "one way" to do it as every single one will be different.

In general, be prepared to spend a min. of $10,000 not including any engine mods and anywhere from 2-6 months depending on how much time you have to work on it

:whs:

Countryboy07 · Jul 18, 2012

Dockboy said:
Why do you say that?

The parts/combo you choose is really going to be based on how you plan on using the truck.

If you are the type that needs instructions and just wants to bolt things together, a swap would be a nightmare and you would be better off having a shop do it if that is what you wanted.

If you enjoy figuring things out, fabbing your own stuff and challenging yourself, then it is a fun project.

Just remember, there are no "kits", there is no instruction manual, and there is no "one way" to do it as every single one will be different.

In general, be prepared to spend a min. of $10,000 not including any engine mods and anywhere from 2-6 months depending on how much time you have to work on it

I stated that because there is a huge lack of electronics to deal with on the 12V... Which is obvious. Another reason, cost. Swapping a CR into a OBS would be fun, like Rocky did on his, but I have a lack of money growing on the money tree right now. Plus you can find '94-'97 12V trucks, complete trucks for next to nothing if you look around.

Dockboy · Jul 18, 2012

Countryboy07 said:
I stated that because there is a huge lack of electronics to deal with on the 12V... Which is obvious. Another reason, cost. Swapping a CR into a OBS would be fun, like Rocky did on his, but I have a lack of money growing on the money tree right now. Plus you can find '94-'97 12V trucks, complete trucks for next to nothing if you look around.

A CR is a self contained engine just like a 12v. It only needs 12v and ground and it runs all by itself. The only additional wires that you would "have" to run are the 4 wires for the odbII port.

It is a common misconception that there is "a bunch of wiring" with a CR. Absolutely not true!

Trapper · Jul 19, 2012

Dockboy said:
A CR is a self contained engine just like a 12v. It only needs 12v and ground and it runs all by itself. The only additional wires that you would "have" to run are the 4 wires for the odbII port.

It is a common misconception that there is "a bunch of wiring" with a CR. Absolutely not true!

I just would stay with the early CRs. Later models seem to split pistons in stock form. Or swap in good pistons.

Countryboy07 · Jul 19, 2012

Dockboy said:
A CR is a self contained engine just like a 12v. It only needs 12v and ground and it runs all by itself. The only additional wires that you would "have" to run are the 4 wires for the odbII port.

It is a common misconception that there is "a bunch of wiring" with a CR. Absolutely not true!

Hmm... I guess I just learned something new! Thanks for the info Dockboy!

Not to hijack the thread, but what is needed then for a CR swap if I wanted to get an engine from a wrecked truck? Just the engine, wiring harness, and ECM?

djsdiesel · Jul 19, 2012

I did a 12v swap into an 06 f-350 6.0l. $25k out the door w/ a 400hp 12v and a bts 4r100. The 12v was a low mile 96 215 we picked up for $1800.

Dockboy · Jul 19, 2012

Countryboy07 said:
Hmm... I guess I just learned something new! Thanks for the info Dockboy!

Not to hijack the thread, but what is needed then for a CR swap if I wanted to get an engine from a wrecked truck? Just the engine, wiring harness, and ECM?

No problem!

Yes, the engine, engine harness, ecm, and the APPS which is the throttle position assembly. The APPS is different between the different years but basically can be handled two ways. The earlier models (03-04) used a mechanical potentiometer assembly connected to the engine harness that mounts on the front of the head intake and then has a standard cable to the pedal. You replace your diesel accelerator pedal with one out of a gas truck and connect the cable to it. The later years use a remote APPS that you connect to an accelerator pedal with a potentiometer on it.

The engine then only needs 12 volts, ground, and a Key on 12 volts and it will run. You just need to wire a obdII port to it (4 wires) if you want to change the programming and read codes.

Deputydog · Jul 19, 2012

I installed an early '04 CR into my '02.. I did a bit more wiring just because I wanted everything to work like it was from the factory (A/C, dash etc).

The CR needs to see a speed input signal too.