Tncoalroller88
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was wondering what you guys thought about putting a new walboro pump with my stock bosch sd pump would this make a pretty good steady preasure for 238/100 at wot?
custon dual fuel question
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TRUBBS
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Why not just use two SD Bosch pumps? It will give you all and more then you will ever need for a 100% nozzle. The walbro just flat out does not have a good reliability record over all with diesels. If it fails yes you can still get home but why deal with it failing if you do not have to as you do not need it.
If you do chose to run it for what ever reason ( like you already have it but do not have a second SD pump) I would set it up to run one of two ways:
1: Run the Walbro full time as it provides all the fuel you need and then have the SD pump along with the walbro on a switch. If the walbro fails you can turn it off and the SD on and can still do normal driving without any issue of fuel pressure.
2: Run the SD pump full time and have a hobbs switch that when you hit a certain boost level turns on the Walbro pump. I would still run a manual switch for the Walbro in case it ever goes out.
There is also running both pumps full time. I think this is a bad idea and complete overkill. Running both full time is just circulating and completely unnecessarily that much more fuel which is causing that much more aeration and heating of the fuel and that much faster.
I would also purchase a check valve for the output side of the Walbro. The SD pump if its a Bosch already has one built into the output fitting. This will prevent looping but also prevent drain back or pressure pluses which shorten pump life.
If you choose to run dual SD pumps then you can choose to run them both full time or setup the hobbs switch to have the second pump come on at a given boost pressure. I would also run a multi way switch so you can control power to the pumps. I would want a 4 way to give you the following power control options:
On #1 Off #2
On #2 Off #1
On #1 #2
Off all
If you do chose to run it for what ever reason ( like you already have it but do not have a second SD pump) I would set it up to run one of two ways:
1: Run the Walbro full time as it provides all the fuel you need and then have the SD pump along with the walbro on a switch. If the walbro fails you can turn it off and the SD on and can still do normal driving without any issue of fuel pressure.
2: Run the SD pump full time and have a hobbs switch that when you hit a certain boost level turns on the Walbro pump. I would still run a manual switch for the Walbro in case it ever goes out.
There is also running both pumps full time. I think this is a bad idea and complete overkill. Running both full time is just circulating and completely unnecessarily that much more fuel which is causing that much more aeration and heating of the fuel and that much faster.
I would also purchase a check valve for the output side of the Walbro. The SD pump if its a Bosch already has one built into the output fitting. This will prevent looping but also prevent drain back or pressure pluses which shorten pump life.
If you choose to run dual SD pumps then you can choose to run them both full time or setup the hobbs switch to have the second pump come on at a given boost pressure. I would also run a multi way switch so you can control power to the pumps. I would want a 4 way to give you the following power control options:
On #1 Off #2
On #2 Off #1
On #1 #2
Off all
Last edited:
Tncoalroller88
New member
WOW thanks for the help :lame:
Tncoalroller88
New member
so your waying bout the best way to do this is to replace my stock pump with the walboro then run my stock bosch pump to a switch that i can just switch on inside the cab right?? and as for reliability yea iv heard alot of bad stuff on walboro and alot of good and i already have it so might as well put it to good use i reckon only part i hate about it all is having switches mounted inside i hate all that wiring nonsense.. thanks tarm for the reply
Rideracelivemx7
New member
i have 2 SD pumps in parallel, both on the same power circuit on 100% of the time, works perfect. they make some funny noises when in the negative's and real cold temps but they to put up a fuss with 250 100s
As for wiring what I would do is this. First have each on its own relay. You can use a wiring bus to make it easy and clean for making multiple connections to single power leads. But what I would do is this. Use high strand 10 g wire all power and ground leads. Get your power and ground directly off the battery terminals. Have that go to each relay power and ground terminals. Take the factory wiring harness that goes to the factory pump and use that for the control wire connections on the pumps. I wanted to lay that out as the basics. So its easy and not confused by placing the in cab switch into the middle of it all. Now that you have that laided out lets add the switch. This will go into the wiring that you split off the factory pump harness. You want to take the control wire going to each relay and that is what you want to put the switch between. Cut each of those and extend them into the cab and to the correct terminals on the switch. That will do it. Now that you can see how it works you can do it all when you first install it rather than waiting and doing it as two separate steps. That is if you got a grasp on it. Otherwise do it in two steps and just deal with the extra splices from cutting the wires. Otherwise you can just run each from the stock harness and the control terminal of each relay into the cab to the switch and not have those extra splices.
I could draw it out on a paper and scan it in if its still a bit confusing for you.
Do yourself a favor: go to a stereos shop or place that sells good car systems and get the high quality gold connectors and ends for the wires as well as top quality wire. For the control wires you can use 12 g but for power you want 10g. The reason is not that 12 g can not handle the amps it can without a issue. The issue is volt drop and this gets you lower pump efficiency. Ideally you want to see zero volt change from what you test off the alt and battery vs what you get at the pump terminal. The closer to 14v the better IMO. This also goes for shrink heat tube to cover the connection you do make.
You should also put a inline fuse between the battery or power source and the relay to help prevent burning up the relay or pump or wiring should there be a surge or large draw. A 30a fuse will work as you should be also using 30a relays.
Also pick up some of the corrigated tube to put your wires in it. I would put EVERY single wire that is outside the cab into this tubing. To do this you will likely have some rather large groups so make sure to purchase some large tubing like 1" Then tape the wires together and tape the ends so you can push the thru the tube rather than use the cut opening to press then in the whole way as thats a PITA. Even a single wire should be covered just get a small tube to do it. Have them go from the terminal to terminal so there is nothing left uncovered.
Take some time and plan out exactly where you plan to mount your relays in the engine bay or even possibly in the cab if you so choose. Take the time to pick a ideal location for the switch. Somewhere you can get to easily but not something else would easily see and want to fool with. Flipping your pumps off while driving does not do good things to your injectors.
The reason for using the stock wiring harness for the control wiring as well as to the switch is you want the PCM to be able to cut off the power all together should the truck not start but if you still have a reason to have the key allowing other power items to run but with a engine off. Otherwise the pumps would stay on if the key is in the power on key. You also would then have to splice into the fuse box to a key on power supply.
You could also pick up a connector to match the factory one this will allow you to keep the end connector and not have to use splices for that connection.
I know it may sound confusing and a lot but it really is not in actual practice. Its quite basic with just a handful of connections. The most critical IMO is planning where you are going to mount things and how you route the wiring.
I could draw it out on a paper and scan it in if its still a bit confusing for you.
Do yourself a favor: go to a stereos shop or place that sells good car systems and get the high quality gold connectors and ends for the wires as well as top quality wire. For the control wires you can use 12 g but for power you want 10g. The reason is not that 12 g can not handle the amps it can without a issue. The issue is volt drop and this gets you lower pump efficiency. Ideally you want to see zero volt change from what you test off the alt and battery vs what you get at the pump terminal. The closer to 14v the better IMO. This also goes for shrink heat tube to cover the connection you do make.
You should also put a inline fuse between the battery or power source and the relay to help prevent burning up the relay or pump or wiring should there be a surge or large draw. A 30a fuse will work as you should be also using 30a relays.
Also pick up some of the corrigated tube to put your wires in it. I would put EVERY single wire that is outside the cab into this tubing. To do this you will likely have some rather large groups so make sure to purchase some large tubing like 1" Then tape the wires together and tape the ends so you can push the thru the tube rather than use the cut opening to press then in the whole way as thats a PITA. Even a single wire should be covered just get a small tube to do it. Have them go from the terminal to terminal so there is nothing left uncovered.
Take some time and plan out exactly where you plan to mount your relays in the engine bay or even possibly in the cab if you so choose. Take the time to pick a ideal location for the switch. Somewhere you can get to easily but not something else would easily see and want to fool with. Flipping your pumps off while driving does not do good things to your injectors.
The reason for using the stock wiring harness for the control wiring as well as to the switch is you want the PCM to be able to cut off the power all together should the truck not start but if you still have a reason to have the key allowing other power items to run but with a engine off. Otherwise the pumps would stay on if the key is in the power on key. You also would then have to splice into the fuse box to a key on power supply.
You could also pick up a connector to match the factory one this will allow you to keep the end connector and not have to use splices for that connection.
I know it may sound confusing and a lot but it really is not in actual practice. Its quite basic with just a handful of connections. The most critical IMO is planning where you are going to mount things and how you route the wiring.
Tncoalroller88
New member
alright thanks tarm this will be really helpful when i get rolling on this little project in the very near future
Tree Trimmer
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you should ask tarm a random question, totally off the wall, that is so vague, any normal person cannot find something, and he will be able to find all the literature on it, you would swear he manufactured it himself.
the things he has swirling around in his head, its crazy.
the two sd pumps, like tarm stated was probably the most reliable setup, would look something like this. http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76505 shut of valves for when you want to change filters and all.
you can use hose, and probably make that a little more compact, but this is a real good pic, because it not all compact, to show the layout of the system.
otherwise, run the stock fuel pump full time, and put a hobbs switch on it, again as tarm said.
a hobbs switch is a switch that if the pressure drops to X amount, it turns the switch on. so if you want 65 psi normal operating pressure, and it drops to say 55psi, the walboro would turn on, thus bumping your pressure back up where it needs to be, and not continue to dropping, as the single sd pump cannot hold pressure.
there is a little more to it, but thats a real good general look at it.
care to elaborate a tad more tarm, your explanations are a little better than mine.
the things he has swirling around in his head, its crazy.
the two sd pumps, like tarm stated was probably the most reliable setup, would look something like this. http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76505 shut of valves for when you want to change filters and all.
you can use hose, and probably make that a little more compact, but this is a real good pic, because it not all compact, to show the layout of the system.
otherwise, run the stock fuel pump full time, and put a hobbs switch on it, again as tarm said.
a hobbs switch is a switch that if the pressure drops to X amount, it turns the switch on. so if you want 65 psi normal operating pressure, and it drops to say 55psi, the walboro would turn on, thus bumping your pressure back up where it needs to be, and not continue to dropping, as the single sd pump cannot hold pressure.
there is a little more to it, but thats a real good general look at it.
care to elaborate a tad more tarm, your explanations are a little better than mine.
2000wa250
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Makes sense to me. Tarm couldnt the 4 way switch effectively be an anti theft device too? if you were to set it to both pumps being off, how far could the truck effectively run? I know this would be hell on the injectors as you would end up pushing air through the system...but I would think that this would be a fail safe anti theft deal. If the truck was to get stolen while the pumps were off, there would be an effective limit on how far it could go which could go a long way towards helping you recover the truck.
Tree Trimmer
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as long as your toggle switch isnt in a obvious place, as well.
if someone wants your truck, and it dont start, its not unreasonable to think that they will just start flipping switches hoping it will start.
and if there is no fuel pressure, they will make it about 5 feet max i would say, if they even managed to get it in drive.
if someone wants your truck, and it dont start, its not unreasonable to think that they will just start flipping switches hoping it will start.
and if there is no fuel pressure, they will make it about 5 feet max i would say, if they even managed to get it in drive.
Yep between the stress of being in a Truck they are stealing and want to get away fast. Then start flipping unlabeled switches other than many numbered they will have no idea what combo they are at etc.
Think you could put you DD tune flashed to your PCM and then only put one maybe two tuned together with each other on maybe 3 and 4 positions and then make all the rest no start. LOL they would be complete FUBAR'd. Then add in a 4 position fuel switch again with only numbers. Finally if you really want to screw with anyone that you have not told how to start your truck add a push button spliced into the the ignition wire so it has to be pushed and held down while starting. Want to have fun make it the OD button and move it to maybe a foot switch like the old high beam light on off foot switch of the 70s and earlier vehicles. LOL Just some ideas that while may still allow you to end up with a ripped out radio and PCM etc short of a winch and flatbed even a good auto thief will have clusterf@3k on his hands trying to take that vehicle.
OH man do not get my mind going on ways to secure a vehicle, building, room. It use to be well something I was focused on :naughty: They can be strictly less lethal and well .........
Think you could put you DD tune flashed to your PCM and then only put one maybe two tuned together with each other on maybe 3 and 4 positions and then make all the rest no start. LOL they would be complete FUBAR'd. Then add in a 4 position fuel switch again with only numbers. Finally if you really want to screw with anyone that you have not told how to start your truck add a push button spliced into the the ignition wire so it has to be pushed and held down while starting. Want to have fun make it the OD button and move it to maybe a foot switch like the old high beam light on off foot switch of the 70s and earlier vehicles. LOL Just some ideas that while may still allow you to end up with a ripped out radio and PCM etc short of a winch and flatbed even a good auto thief will have clusterf@3k on his hands trying to take that vehicle.
OH man do not get my mind going on ways to secure a vehicle, building, room. It use to be well something I was focused on :naughty: They can be strictly less lethal and well .........
