Dana 60 Kingpin Knowledge Needed

flocksmonster garage · Apr 20, 2015

Hi all,
Getting ready to swap a kingpin dana 60 into my 1996 power stroke. I want to put everything it needs on before the swap so it will hopefully go faster, since the truck is my daily driver. I will most likely be going to the local auto parts warehouse for parts. What year/model should I be telling them I need parts for? I think a 1990 4x4 ford f350 power stroke diesel should be correct?

Bugman · Apr 20, 2015

If it came out of a 90 then those are the parts that you will need. It has been a while since I worked on a kingpin axle but you will also need new kingpins and bushings and if you don't have it a reamer for the bushings. Then come the brakes and brake hardware.

flocksmonster garage · Apr 20, 2015

Bugman said:
If it came out of a 90 then those are the parts that you will need. It has been a while since I worked on a kingpin axle but you will also need new kingpins and bushings and if you don't have it a reamer for the bushings. Then come the brakes and brake hardware.

I do not know what year truck it came out of, I was under the impression that all kingpin axles were the same? I am going with new wheel bearings, new rotors, new calipers, and new pads. Hoping that the kingpins are good. And thank you for the reply!

Garbage_Mechanic · Apr 20, 2015

There is a lot of good stuff out there on kingpin D60's if you search. Look on Pirate 4x4 and Randy's Ring and pinion. The kingpins do not need to be reamed, look at a diagram or picture to understand.

Garbage_Mechanic · Apr 20, 2015

As far as I know, the 88-91 kingpin axles all use the same brakes, and are the same as the F250's of the same year. The rotors are a slightly smaller (3/8"?) diameter. The slide pin calipers and the smaller rotors were enough of a negative to me to outweigh the ruggedness of the kingpins, so I went with a 95-97 ball joint axle on both my trucks to get the better claipers and bigger rotors. The Ball joint 92-94 axles have the smaller dia rotors and sliding claipers too.

Isobaric · Apr 20, 2015

Things you will want to do prior to installing in a truck:
-Inner axle seals
-Pinion seal
-Shaft joints
-Spindle bearings / seals
-Wheel bearings / seals
-Brakes
-Kingpin bearing, bushing, spring, cap, and grease (kingpins themselves are optional)

I have laid hands on more kingpin axles than I care to count.
There are 2 ways things can go with hardware of that era. Either it has been used and abused for the past 300k and needs attention, or it has sat in a field for the last 10 years and needs attention.
Any consumable that you don't replace now, will leak seize or both down the road. You are money ahead to replace everything you can while it is on a bench.
4wdfactory and offroaddesign both have all of the parts you will need.

psduser1 · Apr 21, 2015

There should be a number stamped on the top of the axle tube, inboard of the pig. You'll need to wire brush the tube to see it, but any decent axle business should be able to use the number to get you yr, make, and model.

flocksmonster garage · Apr 21, 2015

Garbage_Mechanic said:
As far as I know, the 88-91 kingpin axles all use the same brakes, and are the same as the F250's of the same year. The rotors are a slightly smaller (3/8"?) diameter. The slide pin calipers and the smaller rotors were enough of a negative to me to outweigh the ruggedness of the kingpins, so I went with a 95-97 ball joint axle on both my trucks to get the better claipers and bigger rotors. The Ball joint 92-94 axles have the smaller dia rotors and sliding claipers too.

Are the slide pin calipers and smaller rotors that big of a problem? I was going to go with a ball joint but I scooped up this axle for 400$ so it was hard to pass up.

flocksmonster garage · Apr 21, 2015

Isobaric said:
Things you will want to do prior to installing in a truck:
-Inner axle seals
-Pinion seal
-Shaft joints
-Spindle bearings / seals
-Wheel bearings / seals
-Brakes
-Kingpin bearing, bushing, spring, cap, and grease (kingpins themselves are optional)

I have laid hands on more kingpin axles than I care to count.
There are 2 ways things can go with hardware of that era. Either it has been used and abused for the past 300k and needs attention, or it has sat in a field for the last 10 years and needs attention.
Any consumable that you don't replace now, will leak seize or both down the road. You are money ahead to replace everything you can while it is on a bench.
4wdfactory and offroaddesign both have all of the parts you will need.

The guy I bought it off of had it in his truck then took it out and put in an axle with 3.55 gears, he said this axle didn't need anything except a pinion seal which he gave me. I am just doing the wheel bearings as a precaution. However the brakes are shot.

flocksmonster garage · Apr 22, 2015

Big surprise here, I got it up on some jack stands and the drivers side lower king pin has a lot of play. Hopefully it just needs the new bearing and not much else. Cant win lately. Probably should just rebuild both sides upper and lower. I hate to get into the situation of a frozen king pin though.

Isobaric · Apr 25, 2015

Like I said, replace all consumable parts while it is on a bench. You will be time and money ahead.

m j · Apr 25, 2015

these are not really 'kingpin' axles. the lower is a tapered bearing/race, and the upper is a tapered cone with a spring loaded teflon bushing
I never heard of one being 'frozen' they just get sloppy

I am with Isobaric. clean it thoroughly and replace everything now.
new spindle with the spindle bearing are only about $130 each if you want to go all the way to new

flocksmonster garage · Apr 26, 2015

Well I ordered new Timken wheel bearings, the "basic" king pin and lower bearing kit, and new spindle bearings from Offroad Designs. I called them to confirm that the parts on their website would fit my axle since I was unsure of the year. I didn't get the guys name but he was more than helpful and seemed to be very knowledgeable. would definitely do business with them again.

Going to wait to put the knuckles back on and then order new rotors, calipers, and pads. Then hopefully it is time to swap it in.

Cant imagine that the steering system is too good so if anybody has recommendations I am all ears. I heard the Ruff Stuff kit is really good.

flocksmonster garage · Apr 26, 2015

m j said:
these are not really 'kingpin' axles. the lower is a tapered bearing/race, and the upper is a tapered cone with a spring loaded teflon bushing
I never heard of one being 'frozen' they just get sloppy

I am with Isobaric. clean it thoroughly and replace everything now.
new spindle with the spindle bearing are only about $130 each if you want to go all the way to new

When I said frozen I meant the threads of the king pin itself being seized into axle housing. Sorry about the terminology I am by no means a mechanic.

Isobaric · Apr 29, 2015

flocksmonster garage said:
When I said frozen I meant the threads of the king pin itself being seized into axle housing. Sorry about the terminology I am by no means a mechanic.

Doubt they are frozen.
Installation torque spec is 600 lb-ft. Unless you are using a 1" drive impact or a 6' cheater bar, they ain't moving.

flocksmonster garage · Apr 29, 2015

Isobaric said:
Doubt they are frozen.
Installation torque spec is 600 lb-ft. Unless you are using a 1" drive impact or a 6' cheater bar, they ain't moving.

They don't seem to have any wear and aren't pitted or rusty so I am going to run them.

Isobaric · Apr 30, 2015

flocksmonster garage said:
They don't seem to have any wear and aren't pitted or rusty so I am going to run them.

Good call. They are actually one item that is easiest to replace on the vehicle, as you do not have to worry about fixturing the axle housing while you remove them.

If you do have to replace them, securely (something more than jack stands) lift the truck in the air. With all of the necessary components removed, use a 2-3 ft cheater bar and a 'come-along' cable puller to apply torque. I have yet to find a kingpin that did not come out using this method.
Using a cut down cold chisel as your hex key, welded into the kingpin, will prevent the kingpin itself from breaking.

flocksmonster garage · Apr 30, 2015

Isobaric said:
Good call. They are actually one item that is easiest to replace on the vehicle, as you do not have to worry about fixturing the axle housing while you remove them.

If you do have to replace them, securely (something more than jack stands) lift the truck in the air. With all of the necessary components removed, use a 2-3 ft cheater bar and a 'come-along' cable puller to apply torque. I have yet to find a kingpin that did not come out using this method.
Using a cut down cold chisel as your hex key, welded into the kingpin, will prevent the kingpin itself from breaking.

Thank you for the info! I never thought about welding the hex in. The heat would probably help too.