F250 rear block vs. F350 rear block

[ToddEdge]

I just added a 2.5" leveling kit and the front is actually a bit higher than the rear. I am new to the Diesel world and just picking up on information as I go... I saw some people swapping the rear F250 block for a F350 block and the needed U-bolts. How much taller is a F350 block? Does anyone sell an OEM kit with the block and U-bolts?

If it matters, my truck is a 2006 F250 Crew.

Thanks - Todd

 

[ToddEdge]

Please ignore. I found the answer.

 

[Decker]

F350 block about 1.5 in taller. It should level your truck out or put the rear a tad bit taller.

Pro comp sells F350 blocks with u bolts. I'm sure there are plenty of other companies too.

 

[TyCorr]

I ordered a 3.5" block from pmf suspension and it was fabbed with a 2.5° taper. Its the right way. Even the factory blocks arent done right in my opinion. The factory setup withall the hardware wil come in at 3-4 times the price of the pmf.

I went from a 6"lift to stock spring setup but with a replacement pack in front to level it out. I used the 3.5" option and with a 1klb toolbox my truck is level witha tape measure but appears low. Thpically 1/2 to 3/4higher in the back will appear level.

 

[ToddEdge]

I went out and measured and my front sits about 3/4"-1" higher than the rear so I'd like to just add a 1" block to my OEM F250 block.

2 questions:
1 - How bad is it to stack blocks and should I just find a 2.5" block and remove the OEM?
2 - Anything else I need to do if I add 1" of lift to the rear? I read about a carrier bearing drop kit but, that seems to be for people lifting quite a bit more than 1" to keep the driveshaft angles as close to stock.

Thanks - Todd

 

[Decker]

A lot of cheap kits will offer stack blocks. Most will agree stacking blocks is just a bad idea. That if you put the skinny petal down to fast you could spit a block out. But again if your truck is a grocery getter go ahead. I don't advise it tho.

So to question 1 - Yes and no its all how you use your truck. Most will say yes it bad idea.

To question 2 - if you put a 350 block in the rear you shouldn't need to drop the carrier bearing. But I know on my cclb 250 when I leveled and put a 350 block in rear. I had to shim the carrier bearing to remove a small.vibration.

 

[ToddEdge]

Thanks Decker. I'll just swap the block for one with 1" additional lift.

Regarding the carrier bearing, is this the large bearing that is in between the 2 sections of the rear driveshaft, held to the frame crossmember with 2 bolts? If so, that looks like a very simple process to simply add a shim in there. Just wanted to be sure I'm looking at the right location, should I get some vibration after the larger block is installed.

Thanks - Todd

 

[Decker]

Yes its the large piece between the rear drive shaft. Its held up by two bolts. Shimming it very easy. Undo the two bolts lower the carrier bearing, place shims and bolt back up. Take maybe 5 mins if that to.do.