Feels like a different truck. Have a few questions

[rascal]

I finally finished putting my truck back together in between work, a sick kid, and a wife. I did the following in preparation for gearhead tunes/injectors(238/80)/studs/springs/rods and a new clutch later down the road:

AFE II
38R+WW+turbomaster
EBPV delete
4" Magnaflow TB
Adrenaline HPOP
Strictly Diesel RR w/fuel bowl delete, Pre/Post pump filters, and banjo bolts
flushed intercooler and had radiator patched after ratchet fell and put a hole in it!:cursing:
replaced a few orings as well while I was in there...

Got her hooked up to AE before I drove or cranked down the turbomaster. AE showed MAP to be 14.7 (revved to 2300). Since I don't have a boost gauge(coming soon) yet I assume this is correct. Is this a good or bad number? I am going to check again tomorrow and report back with updated numbers(MAP, IPR, & duty cycle). She felt good on the test drive and man that turbo feels good with a manual. Regains boost quick.

Tomorrow evening I am going to post some more AE numbers so some of the more knowledgeable guys ( and anyone who cares) can give me their .02. Are there any other specific parameters I should look at and include when I update the post?

Also, I always got a misfire on #8; so far she has not logged that since having her running again. I did get a flag on #8 when running the contribution test. I ran a buzz test before starting her up for the first time in about a month and all 8 injectors sang loud and clear.

 

[bad12jr]

I wouldn't worry about number 8 injector. What do your egts look like so far.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

 

[ghohouston]

#8 shows up a lot on 7.3's. And is almost always caused by the cps. They do go bad, but its probably just your cps tricking it into throwing that code

 

[backwoodsboy]

AE showed MAP to be 14.7 at 2300rpm?
Something is screwy right there...14.7 should be ambient pressure.

On edit, just re-read your post and it sounds like you were revving it in neutral. That sounds right then. MAP pressure should be ambient + whatever boost you are making.

 

[rascal]

AE showed MAP to be 14.7 at 2300rpm?
Something is screwy right there...14.7 should be ambient pressure.

On edit, just re-read your post and it sounds like you were revving it in neutral. That sounds right then. MAP pressure should be ambient + whatever boost you are making.

Yes, I was revving it in neutral. I will put some more numbers up tonight.

Thanks!

 

[rascal]

Something weird this morning; my cruise control no longer seems to work.

 

[rascal]

I wouldn't worry about number 8 injector. What do your egts look like so far.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

I dont have gauges yet. However, they are my next purchase in a month or so.

I was not too worried about getting gauges yet since I am running stock tune & injectors.

In hindsight; kind of wish I had them to see before and after numbers.

Thanks!

 

[backwoodsboy]

Something weird this morning; my cruise control no longer seems to work.

Is your speedo functional? I bad VSS will prevent cruise control from working (for obvious reasons).
I see you have a manual transmission, so the clutch switch could be your issue. There are two circuits built into the switch, and the one you are after is between terminals 3 and 4. It is supposed to deactivate cruise control when you begin to depress the clutch. A multimeter across terminals 3 and 4 should show a state change between open and closed as you depress the clutch.
There is also a brake pressure switch on the front of the master cylinder that can take out cruise control if it fails. If you aren't getting power to the switch with the K.O.E.O. then that is your issue.

 

[Arisley]

It could have also simply came unplugged while working on the truck also.

 

[rascal]

Is your speedo functional? I bad VSS will prevent cruise control from working (for obvious reasons).
I see you have a manual transmission, so the clutch switch could be your issue. There are two circuits built into the switch, and the one you are after is between terminals 3 and 4. It is supposed to deactivate cruise control when you begin to depress the clutch. A multimeter across terminals 3 and 4 should show a state change between open and closed as you depress the clutch.
There is also a brake pressure switch on the front of the master cylinder that can take out cruise control if it fails. If you aren't getting power to the switch with the K.O.E.O. then that is your issue.

Speedo working fine. KOEO checked out fine the other day when I ran it but I will check all this. Thank you!

 

[rascal]

It could have also simply came unplugged while working on the truck also.

I am hoping that is what happened. I am going to check it in the morning when I head in to work. I am hoping you are right! Thank you!

 

[rascal]

Ok, this morning and found the connector at the end of the brake master cylinder was disconnected, so I connected and headed off to work. Cruise Control was still not working so this evening I check fuses 15 & 19; both were good.

As far as the clutch pedal sensor I read that if the truck starts without the pedal being depressed that is the issue; truck does not start without putting pedal to the floor. SO if I am correct that is not the issue either.

The horn works so I am thinking it is not the clockspring behind the steering wheel.

Therefore, it makes me think it is a connection to the rear speed sensor.

I am going to run some more tests tomorrow. KOER with AE and visually inspect the connections along the frame rail when I have more light.

I also hope to get a laptop with a working battery so I can post up some of my engine numbers AE give me while running down the highway.

It has to be a connection since I just got done doing all that work.




Thanks

 

[rascal]

Ok, finally got to run the KOER switch test and here is what I got:

P1536 Parking Brake Switch circuit
P0220 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch B circuit
P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0571 Cruise Control / Brake Switch A Circuit
P0703 Torque Converter / Brake Switch B circuit
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal

I am looking at the wiring diagram for a 2000 7.3 cruise control system and based on these codes I would guess it is still and issue with the sensor on the brake booster. I plugged it back after it cam unplugged some how when I was doing all my work. Should I replace the sensor? The connector looks ok but my cruise control was working fine before this happened.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks in advance

 

[JSchuricht]

Did you push the buttons while you ran the test? If you don't push them then the test fails that circuit assuming the switches aren't working.

 

[rascal]

No, I did not do that. Learn something new everyday.

THis morning I was wiggling the sensor and took it on a little road trip and now it is working.

I was feeling good about it all till I saw my oil leak. Please see me post in the Tech section.

Thanks everybody!

 

[greyford1979]

So is it worth taking off and flushing the intercooler?

 

[rascal]

So is it worth taking off and flushing the intercooler?

You know, I decided to do it while I had everything torn apart. Since I did so many other things I am not sure how much effect that actually had. Since I am no longer routing the CCV through the intake I thought I would clean everything up and there was actually a lot of oil residue in there. I felt better afterwards just knowing I cleaned up so much gunk in the intercooler. So for what its worth I would do it again.

I wish I had the money to purchase an aftermarket intercooler at the time but I had spent enough money...for the time being.

 

[greyford1979]

Ok thanks! What the heck, I might as well give it a shot then one day when I clean my boots. I'd love to buy an aftermarket one as well, but with going on vacation for the 4th and already spending money on a boat load of other things, I guess it will have to wait :doh: