First start after injectors and delete

06-sixoh · Oct 17, 2014

Ok. Im pretty sure I have all options available to me.

Although i torqued the injectors down to 40 lb pounds, im wondering if I am hydrolocked. I have my ford tech friend come over tomorrow to take a look. He should be able to point me in the right direction. I will be sure to post my findings to help future searchers. Before he comes over tomorrow night, I will try to turn the motor over.

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06-sixoh · Oct 17, 2014

I know low voltage will kill a FICM, but will a dead FICM cause a no crank?

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mcdaniel1991 · Oct 17, 2014

No it wiil cause a crank no start. You should be able to put a socket or socket with extension on the harmonic balancer bolt. Bar the engine over clockwise so as not to loosen the bolt. Make sure the truck is in neutral with the parking break on.

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powerstrokedkid87 · Oct 17, 2014

mcdaniel1991 said:
No it wiil cause a crank no start. You should be able to put a socket or socket with extension on the harmonic balancer bolt. Bar the engine over clockwise so as not to loosen the bolt. Make sure the truck is in neutral with the parking break on.

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WHS, should be able to get to it front underside of the truck pretty easily

Derkperk · Oct 17, 2014

Should he be pulling the glow plugs first???

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06-sixoh · Oct 17, 2014

Derkperk said:
Should he be pulling the glow plugs first???

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Thats what I was originally going to do. But if the crank turns, then i know im not hydrolocked. So then i can look on the electrical side. Or I can pay my mechanic/friend $60, and he'll diagnose the issue for me, and check vitals for me when i get it fired up. Im really hoping its a relay or fuse that Im just over looking. Surprisingly, there isnt much info on the google machine or here on a "no crank" issue.

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mcdaniel1991 · Oct 17, 2014

I would just bridge the starter.. That is if you can bar it over.

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06-sixoh · Oct 17, 2014

According to my mech, he thinks its hydrolocked!

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swinky · Oct 18, 2014

You can turn one over with a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley.

06-sixoh · Oct 18, 2014

Talking to my mechanic, he said that he has successfully unhydrolocked the 6.0's by turning the crank 3-4 motor revolutions.

So i did that, and was able to turn it over by hand. Starter still wouldnt turn. So i bridged the starter, and no dice. But i could hear it whining for the fraction of a second it was bridged. So i pulled the starter and took it to oreillys. The starter failed. It accuated, but wouldnt turn the motor, causing a fault.

So...
A new starter is in the works, and back to the hydrolock issue.

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swinky · Oct 18, 2014

If you think it's hydrolocked pull the Damn glow pugs. Don't wreck that motor

06-sixoh · Oct 18, 2014

Im trying to avoid spending even more money on a harness, which had been known to commonly break when pulling, even when the tool. Ive already put a lot of money in this motor, let alone the tranmission build i did last year. I dont have lots of cash to throw around.

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ToMang07 · Oct 18, 2014

06-sixoh said:
Im trying to avoid spending even more money on a harness, which had been known to commonly break when pulling, even when the tool. Ive already put a lot of money in this motor, let alone the tranmission build i did last year. I dont have lots of cash to throw around.

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Well bending a rod will save you a lot of money on fuel.

06-sixoh · Oct 18, 2014

I know right!

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TyCorr · Oct 18, 2014

How did you "bar it over"? Dont six liters have four bolts holding the balancer on?

7.3s have a 15/16" bolt holding it on.

Someone post a.picture of their damper!

ToMang07 · Oct 18, 2014

TyCorr · Oct 18, 2014

I see four bolts, which is the picture I have in my head. I wouldnt think it would be easy to bar the crank around not exerting the force about its axis.

webb06 · Oct 18, 2014

The engine can easily be barred over using the alternator pulley but, as long as it's not hydro locked, and you're barring it the correct way so that the belt isn't just slipping.

I thought you said you were able to bar it over prior to replacing the alternator?

And since when is 40ft/lbs recommended to torque injectors?! 26ft/lbs max man.....

04stroker · Oct 18, 2014

We use 32 ft-lbs had coppers fail at the 26-28 range with good cups and OEM coppers. Upped to 32 ft-lbs no problem since I have never gone 40 though.

webb06 · Oct 18, 2014

04stroker said:
We use 32 ft-lbs had coppers fail at the 26-28 range with good cups and OEM coppers. Upped to 32 ft-lbs no problem since I have never gone 40 though.

Have you calibrated your torque wrench lately? Not busting your balls but we have no troubles with 26,so far.....LOL