Fuel lab pump problem

[Obsledpuller]

I bought the full competition race efuel setup from strictly and have no complaints about the system thus far. I went out yesterday morning and turned the key to ACC and the pump started to make its beautiful hum but just before I turned the key to start I heard it drop off. So I shut the truck off and tried again. When I turn the key the pump is supposed to run for 30 seconds. I get about ten seconds then I can actually hear the pump slow down to a crawl and it make a slow whirring sound like a bad starter. Normally I would go right to a bad pump but the pump isn't even a year old with less than 3,000 miles on it any ideas guys/gals? Thanks also it was 45 degrees so I doubt a gelling situation.

 

[mandkole]

Good power supply the whole time?

 

[Blowby]

What fuel pressure you running? Don't last long above 60psi.

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

Which pump? Do you have it wired for high speed or low speed? It could be the pump depending on the model used may not be up to the task. I've had zero issues with any Fuelab stuff we've sold since we started selling them.


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[OBS-Addiction97]

As stated check wiring to the pump and voltage.

 

[Obsledpuller]

I have full voltage the whole time.
I run 65 psi if that us a problem where do I go from here?
Morgan I'm not sure which pump it is to be completely honest I bough the full competition kit with reg return from strictly via swamps. I have talked to Dennis who told me I would have no problem with this pump just wasn't sure if this was common.

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

See if you can get a pump part#


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[Obsledpuller]

Ok I'm going to call Dennis in the morning I'll see what he has to say.

 

[Josh@Fuelab]

I'm guessing that you have the 41401. That is the pump that most of the 6.0 and 7.3 shops use in their kits, so I'm assuming that's what you have. 65psi is no problem for that pump. That is a pump that is usually marketed towards the EFI gas crowd, which can see 80-90psi in a boosted application.

I'm curious to see what we find when we take the pump apart. Usually, they either work or they don't. If a component on the controller fails, the pump will usually not even power on. It could be any number of things. I'll let you know once we get the pump.

I'm not sure what address you have for us, but we did move to a new facility last summer. Our new address is:

1605 Eastport Plaza Drive
Suite 125
Collinsville, IL 62234

 

[sideactiondiesel]

JOSH will get you taken care of ^

 

[Obsledpuller]

^^^ I agree Josh was very helpful I am pulling it out and sending it back this week hopefully nothing I did.
Thank you Josh

 

[m j]

wow he didnt even blame you. aeromotive would have.

 

[old man dave]

wow he didnt even blame you. aeromotive would have.

Probably the Aeromotive folks didn't like talking to a moron.:fustrate:

 

[Obsledpuller]

So apparently I'm retarded. I found the connection at my pressure switch had somehow come loose. Spade connector tightened and we were good to go! Sorry for the false accusation of a faulty pump. Pump works great now as it hasin the past! :doh:

 

[Strictly Diesel]

Somehow I never saw this thread until now...but good to see you got it figured out.

I am surprised you didn't hear the pump relay buzzing with that bad connection, that is the ground for the switch side of the relay, so it had to be turning the pump on and off for the pump to sound noticeably slower. I've seen issues where that switch quit working, which just creates a "no run", but first time I've heard of a connection issue and this type of symptom.

 

[Obsledpuller]

Somehow I never saw this thread until now...but good to see you got it figured out.

I am surprised you didn't hear the pump relay buzzing with that bad connection, that is the ground for the switch side of the relay, so it had to be turning the pump on and off for the pump to sound noticeably slower. I've seen issues where that switch quit working, which just creates a "no run", but first time I've heard of a connection issue and this type of symptom.

It was strange for me too Dennis glad I got it straightened out I had to run wires to the pump and then run them into the cab bc sitting still the thing would run constantly but I guess when the engine moved it was just enough to shut the pump down. Gotta love wiring issues!

 

[Strictly Diesel]

As a test, you can always make a male to male jumper to bypass the pressure switch. I don't remember leaving it that way, but it's a good way to see if that's where your problem is. Doing this will make the pump run full time when the key is on.

 

[zilla68]

It was strange for me too Dennis glad I got it straightened out I had to run wires to the pump and then run them into the cab bc sitting still the thing would run constantly but I guess when the engine moved it was just enough to shut the pump down. Gotta love wiring issues!

i would sure appreciate some pics under the hood, pump mount location.
I also bought this kit and am going to be hopefully finishing install this weekend and it would help a lot.

any tips, any issues on installation?
I've got the valley completely torn out now, turbo, old pump, bowl, intakes (for new ones) etc.

thanks

 

[Obsledpuller]

Chris I don't have the truck at home it's at carsons now checking out the cylinder I dropped an injector but as far as installation I put mine on the frames d the I stall was very easy the setup is very easy the hardest part I found for me was taking out the old elbow fuel fitting on the ds rear. Other than that was a piece of cake.

 

[old man dave]

Put a daub of liquid wire insulation (ScotchCote) on the connection screws after tightening the screws to keep them tight and for resistance to corrosion.