Cleared the codes and let it sit. Turned it back on let it idle for 20 minutes and its still running ****ty. Checked codes again and cylinder 6 contribution balance and cylinder 6 misfire codes are back again. Thoughts?
Fuel ran dry, now it wont start.
- Thread starter WILD_PHIL
- Start date
jdgleason
Active member
Yikes. May have taken out #6 injector. Which means it was probably weak to begin with. How bad does it idle? Maybe try some additive?
jdgleason
Active member
Power Service additive
JAP
In the Brig (Banned)
I run the piss out of mine. I know CR's aren't the same, but I make sure to use every bit of plunger travel to try and get the air out as fast as possible.
Nic
Active member
any luck? Well, I guess its excuse time for an upgrade! Im sure JD can hook you up with some 85 overs. :rockon:
Nic
Active member
werent you in Alvin for awile?
Well I put the diesel kleen in it and drove it home. It seems to be running good. Now I have to learn about IPW. It falls to 0 when I let off the throttle. Once I accelerate it picks right back up to where it was. Normal?
brian89
New member
I'm not an expert, just spit balling but if you run it hard when one or two cylinders aren't firing couldn't you possibly crack a piston? If there is no combustion to heat it up and tighten up piston/cylinder clearance its gonna rattle around like a mofo right? Or if no fuel is being injected and it gets hot and expands and tightens to much couldn't it seize? Just asking for future reference
jdgleason
Active member
I assume IPW on the minimaxx is pulse width.... basically how long the injector is injecting fuel. I would imagine going to 0 for a split second isn't out of the norm (at least how it shows on a gauge).
jdgleason
Active member
A piston shouldn't "rattle" in a cylinder regardless of conditions. Diesel acts as a lubricant though, and you can wreck cylinder walls, rings etc.
Well, by pulling the filter out and and letting it fill up, you just sent a ton of debris through your injectors. I recommend doing a fuel sample now @ injector 6. Basically you have to take off the valve cover, and loosen the feed tube to 6, let the fuel drain into a black aerosol cap and let it sit... Take a light to it and look for debris...
when you guys are changing fuel filter in these things, suck out the fuel at the secondary filter base. if you dont do this your sending debris straight into your pump... You never set a fuel filter into stagnant fuel... NEVER
when you guys are changing fuel filter in these things, suck out the fuel at the secondary filter base. if you dont do this your sending debris straight into your pump... You never set a fuel filter into stagnant fuel... NEVER
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drunk on diesel
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I'm sure it'll be fine, but you picked the WRONG truck to run dry! LOL
man, when my buddy finally gets a 6.4 to fire up after the fuel system has been open, he revs it to like 3000 and holds it there. it's unnerving hearing a cold engine wind up like that, but he's been doing it for years w/ zero problems
good times
man, when my buddy finally gets a 6.4 to fire up after the fuel system has been open, he revs it to like 3000 and holds it there. it's unnerving hearing a cold engine wind up like that, but he's been doing it for years w/ zero problems
good times
drunk on diesel
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sometimes you just gotta walk it off 
Did the same thing to mine a week or so ago. Ran it dry and it took forever to get it started again. After alot of key cycling and turning it over I finally got it to fire and immediately gave it some gas and kept it at around 2500 or so for maybe a minute. After that it was normal
IHPowerstroke7.3
New member
For the DIY guys, you could probably make the tools for bleeding the fuel system. All you need is a regular schraeder style fitting to go on the schrader valve with some clear hose and a shut off valve if you want to go that far. Thread it on the port on the fuel cooler, cycle the key until you don't see any air bubbles in the hose. Low pressure is bled. High side, you'll have to find a banjo bolt style fitting with a straight fitting on the other end. Basically on the return side at the fuel cooler (pump return) you take out the banjo fitting, thread this fitting in with some more clear hose on the end. You run the truck until there is no more air coming out. Done. Could probably make both tools under $50
