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RCDP

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Hey what's up guys. I'm new here and I been thinking of getting a 6.4. Still looking for one I want(white and tan, sun roof, fx4, less than 100k miles, for a non ridiculous price). But anyways I know the stock 6.4 has over pressuring from the turbo into the cylinders. I know a BOV and a wastegate system would help. Now my question is how do these components work to help reduce that and make the life of these mysterious blowing up engines work? I tried to search but couldn't find what I wanted
 

madman1234509

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I think you have been misled. With tuning advances it has actually been found that waste gates are not really needed on stock turbos/stock fuel. Same as blow off valves, all they do is prevent turbo barking, and increase the life of the turbos. But again, on stock chargers it isnt a huge problem. Find the exact truck you like, air intake, delete, and tune and you'll be happy. I stress on the, don't settle for anything less then exactly what you want the first time.
 

RCDP

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Thanks man. I been searching and I recently found one I like. I live in south Louisiana and the perfect truck is in georgia lol. Yea I know about deletes. I was going to do a no limit or s&b intake, h&s, mbrp 5", 22x14 mavericks, bulletproof or BDS lift(8 or 10"), 37" toyo OC, and a few other goodies. I can go on for a while lol
 

RCDP

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But as far as turbo idk if I want single or upgrade the compounds
 

Stroked777

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Buy a tuner now if your mind is set on a 6.4. And as far as the turbo goes what's your goal with the truck? Fun daily driver? Sled puller? Towing, drag racing. Little bit of everything
 

B585Ford

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OP,
As Madman stated, I don't think the information you have received is entirely accurate. With factory tuning, you won't have to worry "overpressurizing" the engine (not sure if you are referring to Boost or EBP). Deletes are definitely a good thing and that will require aftermarket tuning. There are weak links in a 6.4. If you run hotter tunes (tunes that make about double the HP from the factory) and have a heavy right foot, sooner or later you will probably need to do head studs/HG. Pistons are crap shoot. It seems like heat is the biggest factor in whether they will crack. Bottom ends on a 6.4 are very stout. The factory valvetrain is pretty decent, but with hot tunes you do have to watch the EBP at WOT if you keep compound turbos. In your case, my guess is that compounds would be the best option for you since you plan to do an 8" lift and run 37s. The lift and tires will definitely slow spooling which is why I don't think a single would be optimal for you....especially if you plan to drive it on the street.
 

madman1234509

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Thanks man. I been searching and I recently found one I like. I live in south Louisiana and the perfect truck is in georgia lol. Yea I know about deletes. I was going to do a no limit or s&b intake, h&s, mbrp 5", 22x14 mavericks, bulletproof or BDS lift(8 or 10"), 37" toyo OC, and a few other goodies. I can go on for a while lol

Haha well I flew from upstate NY to Nogales Arizona for my truck, and I'd do it again if I had to, couldn't be happier. Basically what these guys said is what you want. If you're doing a lift, probably a atmosphere drop in would be your best bet. Before you do anything turbo wise I'd invest in head studs.
 

RCDP

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I'm thinking of a 600-700 hp street DD. A camaro killer is what I'd like to call it. I read that the factory turbos over pressurize something. What is EBP ? I'm pretty chill on the footing. Just some high way pulls every once in a while. Not much. I was thinking of doing studs as an option. But I didn't know if I would need to. I don't plan on doubling HP off a tune. Maybe 250 max.
 

RCDP

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What is an atmosphere drop in ? I guess I can search that and keep this short and sweet lol
 

Powerstroke Man 6.4

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What is an atmosphere drop in ? I guess I can search that and keep this short and sweet lol

The atmosphere or "atmo" is the "bigger" turbo (where the CAI tube connects) We have a lot of upgraded "atmos" ranging in sizes from 71,72 75,76 etc for either elite diesel rivercity diesel etc. larger atmos provide cooler egts, and cheap added power.
 
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B585Ford

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I'm thinking of a 600-700 hp street DD. A camaro killer is what I'd like to call it. I read that the factory turbos over pressurize something. What is EBP ? I'm pretty chill on the footing. Just some high way pulls every once in a while. Not much. I was thinking of doing studs as an option. But I didn't know if I would need to. I don't plan on doubling HP off a tune. Maybe 250 max.

A 250 tune is getting close to doubling the factory HP. From that factory, these things make about 260-280 RWHP. Again, your right foot will be the biggest factor in how long the HGs and tranny live. If it is a Job 1 or 2, you are also much more likely to pop a HG.
 

RCDP

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The truck I was looking at was a 2010. Idk what the job number thing is. This is my first diesel. And thanks for all the input guys. Guess I'll be doing arp stubs or black onyx I think is the name. With an upgraded atmosphere !
 

sootie

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The truck I was looking at was a 2010. Idk what the job number thing is. This is my first diesel. And thanks for all the input guys. Guess I'll be doing arp stubs or black onyx I think is the name. With an upgraded atmosphere !

the job #s really only matter on the 08 model trucks. 2010 has the most updated of everything. DONT use black onyx gaskets, use OEM.

a wastegate is a good idea even on stock fuel, stock turbo trucks.
 

sootie

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I think you have been misled. With tuning advances it has actually been found that waste gates are not really needed on stock turbos/stock fuel. Same as blow off valves, all they do is prevent turbo barking, and increase the life of the turbos. But again, on stock chargers it isnt a huge problem. Find the exact truck you like, air intake, delete, and tune and you'll be happy. I stress on the, don't settle for anything less then exactly what you want the first time.

i found otherwise. running both H&S canned tunes and Gearhead.
 

drunk on diesel

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I wouldn't worry about head gaskets on a Job 1 or 2. My Job 2 has proven to me that people worry too much. Hence my owning a Job 1 now also :)

I will say this though... if you're wanting a Camaro killer, why the big lift and heavy wheels/tires? :confused:
 

drunk on diesel

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I wouldn't worry about head gaskets on a Job 1 or 2. My Job 2 has proven to me that people worry too much. Hence my owning a Job 1 now also :)

I will say this though... if you're wanting a Camaro killer, why the big lift and heavy wheels/tires? :confused:
 

obs7.3

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arp studs and factory head gaskets. I've talked to multiple guys from Ford and a few local powerstroke guys and every single one says the black onyx gaskets never last like the factory ones. I don't have any personal experience but I have arp studs and factory gaskets running 250-310 tunes and no issues.
another option is to retain the factory turbo's and drop in the batmo wheels. if you're going to run tunes and mess with the turbo, you'll want to upgrade the trans. IMO it's stupid to add power and not touch the trans. Not saying you're trans is gonna fail instantly but like B585Ford stated, your foot determines your trans life and even if you drive it light footed from day one, there's still more power going thru it and it will need upgraded at some point.
 

B585Ford

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I wouldn't worry about head gaskets on a Job 1 or 2. My Job 2 has proven to me that people worry too much. Hence my owning a Job 1 now also :)

I will say this though... if you're wanting a Camaro killer, why the big lift and heavy wheels/tires? :confused:

My Job 2 HG only made it to 32k miles. Everything was stock except the basics and Spearaco IC. No track runs, no sled pulls, and 1 dyno. I definitely don't beat on it (I do some WOTs every now and again). I always let mine warm up to at least 160. Over the years, I have seen a number of guys post similar experiences on Job 1s and 2s (obviously more Job 1).

OP,
2010 HG tend to hold pretty well.
 

drunk on diesel

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My Job 2 is at 192k... HD300 from 108k to 165k, GH Race to 192. Most of my passing on FM roads is @ WOT :D
 

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