Harmonic balancer
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bruce
Active member
ATI
Powerstroker7.3
New member
I have a fluid damper
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as of earlier this year, you can NO LONGER install an ATI unless the crank is balanced WITH it..they are about 10 grams different.
Fluidampr can be installed in place of the stock dampner.
Powerstroker7.3
New member
It's supposed to help the truck run smoother but I did it when I did my full build so I don't know if I notice a difference or not
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97powerstroke
New member
When I installed my fluid damper it was a night and day difference with how smooth the engine idled and ran throughout the rpm range.
I would think the more out of balance the rotating mass is the more effect this type of dampener will have. This might also explain why some people have more noticable effects than others. The tolerances of the engine crank rods pistons.
bruce
Active member
Is that due to design change? what if you have an older one?
Swaan
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Love my fluid damper. Engine is very smooooth.
gnxtc2
Active member
If you have an OBS and go with the Fluidampr, you need to swap over to a SD water pump pulley.
Love my Fluidampr.
Billy T.
[email protected]
Love my Fluidampr.
Billy T.
[email protected]
gnxtc2
Active member
gnxtc2
Active member
Nope...off the Int'l T444E :naughty: A few of us here run the E-fan clutch.
Billy T.
[email protected]
Billy T.
[email protected]
If you run across one going for cheap if you could PM me. New they are close to $700 but I have seen them go for only a few hundred and even less on ebay.
I run the IH pump so I have the extra ports for the sensor. IIRC the only other real mod is changing out the AC high side temp sensor to allow dual so you can plug it in. IIRC it was like a ford taurus sensor that works and allows you to have it. Have not looked into it since the old powerstroke nation and it may have even been the TDS days.
Right now I am trying to work out a way with the IH pump to run the dual alts. From what I understand I will have the mod the bracket. Want to run a alt dedicated to welding something like the premier setup.
About the ATI balancer if anyone is interested I recall a good number of older threads where it was mentioned that you should have the rotating parts balanced with the ATI mounted. I have no idea if something changed but I know for builds it was considered the way to go so..... If its best to do when building a engine that draws into question its performance when its not. Not saying either ways as I do not know. I have only run a fluid dampers.
I also do recall Jason mentioning that in the pullers the fluid damper had issues at the higher RPMS those guys are turning. Can not recall what the damage was but there was something. But those guys are turning what 4.5-5K+. They were recommending the ATI but to have it attached with the assembly was being balanced.
I have not heard personally any negatives in performance for the fluid dampers in street trucks but I am not connected to that many. Best to get info from the shop guys that see tons of these IMO.
gnxtc2
Active member
PM Sent
I was using a Taurus sensor and it didn't work right. I went with a 6.0 sensor.
I think with the ATI dampers, they needed to honed to fit the crank.
No worries on the rpm, not turning those rpms. Balancing an entire rotating assembly complete, whether it'll be internal or external is the best way. Wasn't a fan of replacing a cracked flexplate and Fluidampr without balancing...but then again, I'm not pulling apart the motor.
Billy T.
[email protected]
Ty,
Good to see you are still around.
Never thought of that. Which port exactly? Its been awhile since I messed with it. It was back when we swapped pumps as you wanted to still use the dual alt.
You have the port on the outlet neck the one near the inlet and the one by the filter. I think there is another. Here's a pic I pulled but its not great but you can see the flats were the ports are.
I actually did something sort of similar on a jeep 4.0. They have the most idiotic setup for the heater port. Its a prebent steel pipe that has a welded female fitting. But you must remove the enitre pump if it leaks or you need to change it out. They tend to let go right at the nut pipe seam.Thus if there is a leak you are pulling the pump off again. So I fitted a male NPT to male JIC. Then used push lok hose. Cut off the set back flare on the heater core pipe and used a compression to male JIC. Now its nice and neat and no need for preformed hose either. Those damn preformed hose are $$$ compared to standard straight hose. $50-$100 for some of those preformed vs $1-$3 a foot. I try to get rid of all preformed hoses so I can easily care cheap hose as spares. The JIC make for nice clean leak free connections. Cut the connector off the old hose and use on the new one. Wish there was something cleaner for the up and low rad hose. Wish I could use steel braid PL with compression fitting to JIC but there is no way to get around the prebent and look good.
Garbage_Mechanic
Member
Lower hose
For the lower hose a 91 to 94 7.3 IDI lower hose is a perfect fit bend wise. On the lower connection the hose is larger than the radiator outlet. This is easy to fix with an adapter sleeve. Gates and Dayco have them. I put a little Right Stuff between the sleeve and hose. It looks and works factory.
For the lower hose a 91 to 94 7.3 IDI lower hose is a perfect fit bend wise. On the lower connection the hose is larger than the radiator outlet. This is easy to fix with an adapter sleeve. Gates and Dayco have them. I put a little Right Stuff between the sleeve and hose. It looks and works factory.
