sootie
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2012
- Messages
- 11,853
- Reaction score
- 37
They're all horrendously unreliable.
Head gasket help and turbo rebuild kit
- Thread starter Steven052
- Start date
They're all horrendously unreliable.
6.7powerstrokeguy
New member
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2016
- Messages
- 28
- Reaction score
- 0
lol. well I have not had any problems out of mine. knock on wood.
Codydiesel
New member
11s had ceramic ball bearings that just did hold up and the turbo had balancing issues that would vibrate them apart. They made minor upgrades to the 12s to help out but my turbo still let go at 25k. 13-14s the balancing was much better on them and seemed like the ball bearings were made of a better material. Main flaw with 11-14s is the turbo shaft speeds are extremely high and it's easy to overspeed them.
So are those turbos just coolant cooled, or does it have oil running to it also? I just thought the thing just had oil to it. I was asked that but I told them idk. So I might be on the right path now I will start by pulling the turbo this weekend if it was a turbo issue how could I go about getting the fluid out that's already in the engine without trying to risk cranking it and bending a rod?
Me too I haven't had any issues out of mine at all until now. I knew about the problems in the 11 turbos but mine has been fine so I seen no need to swap yet. Even now one the truck was cranked it ran great no notice in loss of power or anything. No funny noises nothing. But I read about the hydrolock problem and I noticed if mine set for more then a hr it had a hard start. So i just parked it and planed in pulling it to the shop this week and working on it this weekend. The last time I cranked it and killed it all seemed well no banging or funny sounds so I'm hoping all is still well on the bottom end.
6.7powerstrokeguy
New member
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2016
- Messages
- 28
- Reaction score
- 0
well I guess I learn something new everyday.
Codydiesel
New member
Turbos are coolant cooled and still oil cooled as well. Best way to clean everything would be clean all the innercooler pipes and pull the innercooler and soak it in degreaser,wash it out then air dry it. Besides that not much you can do since the rest of the intake track would be labor intensive and cost a bit of money to get into.
I have seen a couple of intercoolers leak, but are not typically as bad as you are describing. However,i dont deal with tuned 6.7s on a daily basis, 99% i see are bone stock... But in theory higher boost and temps would make it leak worse. You could pull it off and plug one coolant line and pump air in the other with the cooler in a bucket of water fo see if its leaking or not. And as far as cleaning, we use simple green and swish it around till you see clean coming out. Do it about a quart at a time. Once it looks clean flush it with water till its clean and let it air dry.
Had a few mins today. Pulled everything down to the front of the turbo and nothing abnormal. Just a lot of old oil residue I do believe most of it was from where the ccv was b4 I relocated the ccv. Intercooler for the most part was pretty clean. Just some old oil residue like a drop or two at the bottom nothing crazy. So as for now I'm not to worried about the intercooler bc if it was in it I would have noticed it since the leak Is big enough to hydro the engine. Next chance I get I will go ahead and get the turbo on off and check the backside for possible leaks. If not there then I guess the only other options will be to pull the heads and take a look?
Ok, but is either tank dropping. Which on is dropping if so? If the secondary is dropping, with what you have done, the only thing coul be intercooler. If the primary is dropping, it could be the turbo, i haent seen one fail like yhat yet, or head gaskets.
I have only noticed lost coolant from primary. Secondary shows no signs of leaks or dropping. Sorry I miss read that last post thought it said dripping not dropping but yes primary is dropping. But it seems only when running and then when it's killed it leaks down into the cylinders but eventually stops it dosent just drain the degas bottle only goes down so much then stops. Like now it shows signs of loss but I can fill it and it will hold what's in it. Going to go ahead and I hope to find something wrong with the turbo and it's just leaking what's in the lines at the time.
sootie
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2012
- Messages
- 11,853
- Reaction score
- 37
you keep saying coolant is in the cylinders, how do you know? why not pull a glow plug and bar the engine over to see if it is one or all cylinders?
:whs: I would make damn sure that that is whats going on before pilling the heads off. While they arent extremely bad to pull, its still a decent amount of work for something yhat isnt really all that common. I would pull all the glow plugs and jump the starter signal wire while both sides are watched. The connector is on the passenger side battery box, and is gray or black 2 pin with only 1 wire, jump that to battery instead of using a screwdriver or something. Do that with the key off and no fuel will be injected, and youwill get a pretty good idea. Doing.it by hand probably will not eject the water with enough force to see where its coming from.
