Headstuds? Cab on, or yank the motor?

SootRoller · May 15, 2012

Cutting-Edge Diesel said:
I just pull the cover off the hvac box behind the heat shield and there is plenty of room. no need to pull the motor mounts.

I've done it that way also. I can pull the mount in 5 minutes and have way more room. Plus that aluminum shroud hates my hands LOL.

Mdub707 · May 16, 2012

powerstrokin15 said:
i was about to say something before i saw his post pull the motor!!!!! you need a cam bud, like bad oke:

J HO 22 said:
I'm putting a cam in mine in the next month or so

Yeah yeah yeah guys... I know I want one, it's just a matter of logistics! If I do a cam, then it's pushrods too, then maybe valvesprings, it's just all adding up.

HOLDERDOWN · May 16, 2012

ITS DOES ADD IT UP! I'm calculating the cost on my build and its keeps going up.

Mdub707 · May 17, 2012

It would be so much easier in say... 6 months. I have one payment left on the truck, so it will be much easier to save money for mods after that...

PSM_Kid · May 19, 2012

My vote would be to pull the motor and re-seal as much as possible while its on the ground. Prepping the block and setting the heads back on will be much easier. Pulling the motor isn't that hard either.

Mdub707 · May 20, 2012

PSM_Kid said:
My vote would be to pull the motor and re-seal as much as possible while its on the ground. Prepping the block and setting the heads back on will be much easier. Pulling the motor isn't that hard either.

Re-seal as in what? No doubt block prep would be easier for sure, I plan on using an engine hoist to move the heads around, don't want to take a chance and damage the new gaskets on re-assembly.

PSM_Kid · May 26, 2012

Mdub707 said:
Re-seal as in what? No doubt block prep would be easier for sure, I plan on using an engine hoist to move the heads around, don't want to take a chance and damage the new gaskets on re-assembly.

I would pull it and re seal the oil pan/pan above that and bed plate seals if they are seeping bad enough and if you feel up to it. I have noticed that on a lot of higher milage trucks oil pan bolts are loose and some even have a few missing. These seals are fairly inexpensive. I would also take the time to pull the low pressure oil pump to inspect what kind of shape it is in and if anything has gone thru it and been chewed up. I would then pull the front cover and reseal it along with the rear cover. You would just need to get a hold of a few special tools to install crank seal and rear main seal. Do all the HPO system updates if they aren't already done. Reseal the rocker carriers as well.

With the motor on the ground you can basically sit next to it and not kill your back, not worry about your fenders/truck getting scratched or dinged and not have to hop on and off the truck 1000 times.

Mdub707 · May 29, 2012

PSM_Kid said:
I would pull it and re seal the oil pan/pan above that and bed plate seals if they are seeping bad enough and if you feel up to it. I have noticed that on a lot of higher milage trucks oil pan bolts are loose and some even have a few missing. These seals are fairly inexpensive. I would also take the time to pull the low pressure oil pump to inspect what kind of shape it is in and if anything has gone thru it and been chewed up. I would then pull the front cover and reseal it along with the rear cover. You would just need to get a hold of a few special tools to install crank seal and rear main seal. Do all the HPO system updates if they aren't already done. Reseal the rocker carriers as well.

With the motor on the ground you can basically sit next to it and not kill your back, not worry about your fenders/truck getting scratched or dinged and not have to hop on and off the truck 1000 times.

Already have all the HPO upgrades ready to go in. Truck has ~103k on it right now. Heads have been off 2x now by the dealer.

faster6.0 · May 29, 2012

J HO 22 said:
ITS DOES ADD IT UP! I'm calculating the cost on my build and its keeps going up.

Rule #1- never add it all up. LOL

HOLDERDOWN · May 29, 2012

I don't get exact with it...because nothing goes as planned. LOL

Sent from Holderdown Performance iPhone Command Center

powerstrokedkid87 · May 29, 2012

my opinion (from someone who pulled the motor) if you have the capabilities to pull the cab i would, may take a little more time, but i know we can have a cab up in a few hours, and just makes working on the truck that much easier, plus you dont worry about scratching paint, ect.

Now as i said i pulled the motor and that was not too bad either, but when we do head stud jobs, cab goes up....just more painless for us....

Mdub707 · May 29, 2012

I would love to put the cab in the air. My "buddy" that was supposed to help me with that, has vanished. Cab up is sort of out of the question at this point... that was the way I was planning to do it. I even helped him with his when he put his cab up (he owns the lift)... but now, no where to be found.

UpstateDieselGuy · May 29, 2012

Funny how that happens.

Spindrift · May 29, 2012

How many places can a lift hide? :shrug:

Mdub707 · May 30, 2012

It's his lift, in his parents garage... He doesn't exactly live next door to me. I suppose I could just show up there, but at this point I don't even feel like bothering with it. Just stopped emailing me and calling/texting all together out of no where. He owed me a small amount of money too, but he also gave me a set of heads to have machined to swap on mine, so I guess if I never see the money, I still have the heads!? Not sure man. I'm over it at this point, just going to move forward and do it cab on. If it was easy everyone would be doing it right?