HOT!! 4r100

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 8, 2011

So do you think it could have been throwing a code just for it being to hot ? Getting codes ran today

Tom S · Jul 8, 2011

Bulletproof7.3 said:
Yeah I don't think I'm going to the bigger pan but I'm going to move my trans cooler up from where most peoples fog lights are up in behind the grill. I'm also going to use two coolers from the auto parts store to hope help cool it . Also get a full synthetic fluid. Not sure what I put in it when I had trans rebuilt. Think it was mercon 2 . Or however u spell it . Hope this helps, cuz the cooler I have isnt real big and its in a bad spot in my opinion .

OK, time to be smart here. Step one purchase and install a 6.0 cooler not some halfway solution of adding a second cooler to what you have now. Did you consider the possibility that the old cooler is full of crap from the trans that failed. Throw the old baby cooler in the trash. Step two if your truck does not have the transmission fluid also running through the radiator that needs to be a done. Step three is it possible that if you do have it routed through the radiator that it is full of crap. That might need to be replaced. Step 4 change the fluid.

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 9, 2011

first The cooler thats on it is new along with the heavy duty cooler I put on it. I blew it out when I changed fluid and put all new lines on last night. Second the fluid has been changed. Third no its not routed through the radiator .

Alright got both coolers in front of my grill and its 73 deg . Here while driving through town and highway then back through town temp got to 160 deg. Still seems high to me ? For the little bit of driving i did .

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 9, 2011

Honestly I'm not seeing anything that makes me think its ever been routed through the radiator . Not sure what I'm looking for either but looks like to me that it was put back stock when we built the tranny up. What should I look for ? Or how do i do it ?

neverkickn · Jul 9, 2011

Bulletproof7.3 said:
Honestly I'm not seeing anything that makes me think its ever been routed through the radiator . Not sure what I'm looking for either but looks like to me that it was put back stock when we built the tranny up. What should I look for ? Or how do i do it ?

If you crawl under the truck from the front and look at the radiator you should see two bungs attached to the lower cap. Each bung should have a steel line attached. One is a return and one is a supply. I think it goes trans to radiator circuit to air circuit and back to trans but it could be reversed.

That is how mine is anyways and it is an 01. I do know that our radiator can be had with or without a trans cooling circuit so maybe yours never had one.

Just for reference I tow 4k of trailer and equipment daily with mine and my temp will only hit 170-180 at 95 deg ambient.

Tom S · Jul 9, 2011

How about a photo of your setup? You do not have a signature but as I recall the early SD trucks lacked the radiator cooler and that was added to address overheating issues.

Tom S · Jul 9, 2011

Article No.
00-24-4 TRANSMISSION - 4R100 - FLUID OVERHEATS DURING SEVERE DUTY - AVAILABILITY OF UPDATED FLUID COOLER/FILTER KIT - VEHICLES PRODUCED BEFORE 2/6/2000

Publication Date: NOVEMBER 14, 2000
FORD: 1999-2000 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000 EXCURSION

This article applies only to 1999-2000 Super Duty F-Series vehicles equipped with a 6.8L or 7.3L engine built 1/5/1998 through 2/6/2000, and 2000 model Excursion vehicles equipped with a 6.8L or 7.3L engine built 7/1/1999 through 2/6/2000.

ISSUE:
Some vehicles, equipped with 4R100 transmissions, built prior to 2/6/2000 may benefit from additional cooling during heavy duty use conditions (i.e., snow plowing, towing, carrying heavy loads.) A revised transmission Fluid Filter/Cooling Kit has been developed to aid in fluid cooling.

ACTION:
Replace radiator, cooler lines, and hoses for transmission fluid cooling system with current level parts on vehicles built prior to 2/6/2000, ONLY WHEN transmission hardware confirms customer condition of inadequate transmission cooling. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
If vehicle requires service, repair any transmission damage as required.

If inadequate transmission cooling is suspect:

Replace radiator, cooler lines, and hoses with current level parts. The radiator has an internal transmission fluid cooler.
For removal, refer to appropriate model/year Workshop Manual.
For installation, follow procedures listed in the appropriate model 2001 Workshop Manual.
Once the transmission fluid cooling system has been updated, install the Transmission In-Line Filter Kit (XC3Z-7B155-AA) per TSB 00-23-10. Follow the instructions included with the filter service kit.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
YC3Z-7N291-AA Clip - Transmission Oil Cooler
YC3Z-7R081-AA Hose Assembly
YC3Z-7A031-AA Tube Assembly
YC3Z-7A031-CA Tube Assembly
YC3Z-8005-BA Radiator Assembly
XC3Z-7B155-AA Filter Kit - Transmission In-Line

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
00-23-10

WARRANTY STATUS:
INFORMATION ONLY

OASIS CODES:
504000, 510000

Tom S · Jul 9, 2011

Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
You mean the updated unit goes through an oil to water cooler then into a oil to air cooler? I don't think mine goes through the radiator at all. So are the external coolers the same but they added the pass through the radiator? So if I want the updated cooler I need a new radiator with a bottom tank that has the transmission cooler loop made into it?

Yes, yes, and yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
What do you recommend to get equivalent cooling to the factory upgrade?

A radiator with a transmission cooler in the bottom tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
Also does it help to put the cooler in front of the AC condensor where it gets fresh cool unobstructed air?

It helps a little, not a lot, but it does degrade the AC function.

Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
I don't think putting in a new radiator is the cost effective thing to do. I read a post about putting in a 6.0 cooler.

It's up to each individual to decide if it is cost effective or not. It is highly effective, though. Changing the stock air to oil for a 6.0L cooler will make a big difference, too. The radiator cooler is very, very effective in low speed situations where there is little airflow. This is especially true in reverse.
__________________
Mark

Former Ford automatic transmission engineer, 1988-2007.

Maybe this will help you out.

Big Bore · Jul 9, 2011

Daughter is finally sleeping in front room after being awake with a migraine all night so I cant go out and look to see if I have a trans cooler in the bottom radiator tank. I do have the 6.0 cooler, and I have never had anything remotely close to hot trans temps. The truck came with 6.0 cooler already installed so I've never really looked at the plumbing.

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 9, 2011

Tom S said:
Maybe this will help you out.

VERY Helpful last two posts! Thank you very much! this makes a whole lot more sense now, considering i have an 00 1 month prior to the build date that got the factory radiator with the cooler in it. I will do some shopping around and see what all i can come up with.

Makes better sense because my fluid was getting hottest when i was driving slow or stopped.

I ran around town today a lot of stop and go (no load). for about 20-25 mins and temps were right at 165-170 when i got home. Which i didnt think was to bad considering just having air cooled only.

Big Bore · Jul 9, 2011

Ok, just looked very carefully at how mine is plumbed, there are no lines into the radiator. The 6.0 cooler is between the AC cooler and the IC. It is HUGE. As I've said before my temps are rarely even in the warm area. Gauge temps are usually around 140 deg.

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 9, 2011

I think im going to buy this radiator deal. Considering my problem is just when im sitting there or going slow. Which is what this cooler in the radiator is for. If im understanding all of this right. I have found an 01 radiator with the cooler in the bottom on rock auto for 156$ shipped to my door for 179$. sounds alright to me after seeing the price of a6.0 cooler.

neverkickn · Jul 9, 2011

Bulletproof7.3 said:
I think im going to buy this radiator deal. Considering my problem is just when im sitting there or going slow. Which is what this cooler in the radiator is for. If im understanding all of this right. I have found an 01 radiator with the cooler in the bottom on rock auto for 156$ shipped to my door for 179$. sounds alright to me after seeing the price of a6.0 cooler.

Dont just forget about the codes. You still want to know what it was throwing. Also when you did the fluid change did you happen to run the truck with the return line to the trans disconnected.

It sounds like it is getting warm pretty quick. I wonder if you are getting flow through the cooling circuit. Running the return line into a bucket and firing it up will tell you if it is flowing through the cooler. If it isnt you could have a clogged bypass valve.

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 9, 2011

neverkickn said:
Dont just forget about the codes. You still want to know what it was throwing. Also when you did the fluid change did you happen to run the truck with the return line to the trans disconnected.

It sounds like it is getting warm pretty quick. I wonder if you are getting flow through the cooling circuit. Running the return line into a bucket and firing it up will tell you if it is flowing through the cooler. If it isnt you could have a clogged bypass valve.

Oh sorry forgot to mention the code it threw. It was a high temp code. Nothing else than that. drained the fluid, got it all out of the converter and made sure which line was the return line.

The temp doesnt rise real fast just gets there and sits at like 165-170.

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 9, 2011

both lines pushed fluid out of them btw. So bypass valve is good. Not a whole lot but it had some when we were draining the converter. Im guessing the triple disc converters dont have a drain plug like my stock one did ?

Tom S · Jul 9, 2011

I can probably find the flow data if you need it.

One bigger cooler is better then two smaller ones together. What kind of oil to air cooler do you have now. A photo would be good.

Kip · Jul 9, 2011

you really need to listen to these guys and just get a 6.0 cooler IMO it is the best mod you will ever do to 7.3 PSD. I towed a 14k tow hauler with mine and running hills in utah and Idaho never got about 210 with the cooler. I don't think I could have pulled some of the hill with putting in 4 low and just crawling up them.

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 9, 2011

Kip said:
you really need to listen to these guys and just get a 6.0 cooler IMO it is the best mod you will ever do to 7.3 PSD. I towed a 14k tow hauler with mine and running hills in utah and Idaho never got about 210 with the cooler. I don't think I could have pulled some of the hill with putting in 4 low and just crawling up them.

Man i have been listening to these guys a lot. I understand that the 6.0 cooler is the best one on the market. And also i havent explained $ situations but sometimes things are tight and cant just throw 300 + on a cooler. I know 300 is a lot better than 3000 but im just trying to do what i can for now. if thats just putting the 170$ radiator on it and that helps me while im at low speeds then ill do that.

I know it sounds like im the guy that just cobbles **** up to make it work but i have paid very close attention to what ive done and and put the best that i can afford right now on it. Im seriously thinkning about changing the radiator out to the the better one with the built in cooler, but just want to be sure that will help me some with my issues at slower speeds and stop and go times.

Big Bore · Jul 9, 2011

Bulletproof7.3 said:
Im seriously thinkning about changing the radiator out to the the better one with the built in cooler, but just want to be sure that will help me some with my issues at slower speeds and stop and go times.

Based on my trucks performance with the 6.0 cooler, you don't need that radiator, so with the $ spent on that combined with the $ for the additional little cooler, you could get the 6.0 cooler for the same money and have all the cooling you need.

Bulletproof7.3 · Jul 9, 2011

Big Bore said:
Based on my trucks performance with the 6.0 cooler, you don't need that radiator, so with the $ spent on that combined with the $ for the additional little cooler, you could get the 6.0 cooler for the same money and have all the cooling you need.

Yeah i know that but with these two coolers that are on it, it really should have absolutely no problem cooling it. but ive already spent the $ on the heavy duty cooler ive got now.

So im just wondering if you guys think that radiator will make much of a difference if any on mine the way i have it?

I probably at this time wont get a 6.0 cooler so thats why im asking if it will help or not.

Thanks again guys for all of your help. Ive learned a lot in these past few days.