Well thanks to TyCorr I got everything from him a few days ago and got it all installed. Went without a hitch.
For those doing the waters pump make sure you are using a tq wrench especially if you are the kind of person like likes things tight. The bolts only are suppose to be tq to 18lb. That isn't much and for my hand and arm its just snug.
Same goes for those t-stat housing bolts.
BTW I did also think of one more significant positive for anyone that has had to pull the tstat housing off. The pump being made of cast iron. That means no more seized bolts from the galling between the alum pump body and steel bolts. Now both are of like hardness. I still use anti seize on all my bolts other than ones that have huge vibration or suspension parts. They get some form of loc-tite depending on what they are i.e. red or purple usually.
This is on a super duty so things are a little different and actually simpler.
The one pulley boss on the drivers side still has to be ground down. A bench or angle grinder will do just find. Take you time and add a bit of JB weld into the thread port and if you are giving it a coat of paint it will be completely hidden. I will likley do this when I get a chance. TyCorr took the time to rattle can the pump with a primer and then cast sliver color. I ground it down almost completely smooth and only nicked the paint a couple times. LOL
But for whatever reason on the Super duty the Fan pulley had plenty of clearance of the stamped model number so no need for any grinding there.
As per TyCorr comments: The only fitting you need is the one 45 degree for the heater hose. This is the only that normally is right in front of the HPOP gear access port along with your EBP sensor and line. It is now way off to the passenger side right above the lower outlet port of the pump. That is now way to the passenger side way under but inline with the AC pump. Plenty of clearance. Make sure you test fit the pump so you get the angle correct on the fitting as you are right next to the bottom front edge of the engine head. As long as you get it close you can adjust once its on but best to get it there before mounting it just in case.
You just need to replace the stock heater hose that is pre bent with some straight hose and thats it.
You will need a new heat hose because of this but the good new is there is no need for any other fittings or Ting into anything.
Those using the Top rad hose that goes around the belt instead of thru it this still fits fine no changes as the T stat housing is in the same position. Same goes with the original hose design as well. Anyone that doesn't know the one that goes around the belt is the one meant for dual alt setups. You can get it from most any of the auto parts warehouses. I got mine from Car Quest.
About the T-stat and housing. The Tstat I had had its own hard rubber gasket o-ring. Because of this there was no need or way to use the separate one you typically would with the housing. It fits well and I think this will actually seal much better than typical super duty pumps do. Possibly yet another benefit.
There had been mention how with the OBS there was not much room at all to access the filter. With the super duty from what I can tell this will not be an issue. There is nothing but open space around it on the super duty setup.
I did a few upgrades so I had the whole front pulled apart.
Melling Oil Pump
Hypermax Intercooler
6.0 Transmission Cooler
V10 Trans cooler installed for Fuel cooler (This was installed the way a number of OBS install them for trans use the bumper hole)
7.3 trans cooler swapping with the stock power steering cooler. I figure the extra cooling is a good idea with big tires and wheels.
I will see if I can take some pictures tomorrow of it all. I still have everything apart but the belt is on so that is all GTG. Just no bumper, grill, and the only thing still mounted up front is the AC condenser. LOL
But as far as the water pump swap part went. It was honestly no harder than doing a normal SD water pump install. The only part was the grinding of the pulley boss. You could do it with a dremel or other rotatry tool. Heck even a hack saw would work.
Other than that it all normal other than the change of the lower rad hose and heater hose. Also getting the IH length bolts for the pump. Its only a couple but I had all of them as TyCorr had already purchased them.
Also want to give a recommendation to doing business with TyCorr. Everything went 100% perfect. Could not have asked for a better dealing.
Now let me see about some pic. Want to try out my new Verizon Gallaxy III I just got a couple days ago from Pre ordering it to keep my unlimited data and still getting the upgrade discount. They are trying as hard as they can to get you to give it up.. On activation the guy kept trying to tell me I did not need it LOL
