injector cups

steele86

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all those that have replaced injector cups on a7.3 do you guys have any tips any and all help please.
I have the new cups, O-rings, Loctite, and the tools from rosewood diesel
 

neverkickn

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Make sure everything is clean and get the tool indexed right. Wipe out the excess compound before it sets. Really not a bad job with the tool.
 

neverkickn

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The install tool will most likely have to be attached to the head a certain way. It may seem like it is working if you put it on the wrong way but the cup won't fully seat.
 

78f100

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don't forget to drop a penny in the cup before you try to remove it, to stop all the shavings from going in the cylinder.
 

neverkickn

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Yes, it looks like you need to use a hammer to drive the cups in with that particular kit. Just follow the directions on the website and you will be fine.
 
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Make sure you use some pipe cleaners or a tool of some sort to scrap the old sealer out. Brake clean and air on it to get all the bits out doesn't hurt either. And it needs to be the green sleeve retainer loctite. When you drive the new cups in, listen for the change in sound when it bottoms out and then give it a few more good hits to get it fully seated.
 

neverkickn

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Your talking about high temp loctite?all the cyl looks pretty easy but 7&8 look like bitch is a good way to make it easyer ?

Yes, a tool that doesn't require you to hammer in the new cups, or taking it to a shop to have it done.
 

Powerstroke Racer

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Yes, a tool that doesn't require you to hammer in the new cups, or taking it to a shop to have it done.

Who makes this tool?
I have the OTC kit and the Rosewood both you have to hammer in the cups to seat them, FWIW I prefer the steel OTC driver to the aluminum Rosewood kit.
 
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The new Riff Raff kit does not use a hammer to install the new cups it is so much nicer of a job on 7&8 with the new kit. Makes it worth the money IMO

---Clayton
2002 eclb 7.3- back in business /for sale
1990 Chevy K1500- for sale
race truck- in the works
2003 Subaru wrx wagon- new dd toy
sent from the sh!tter withTapatalk2
 

Rideracelivemx7

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when you get all the coolant drained and cups out, look down in the head and youll see where the face of the cup sits. there is a penny sized amount of locktite that needs to be broken up and removed. I found using a long pick really helps with a small vaccum attachment to get the remains.

i have used Jims tools serveral times, it works great. just make sure to get a good bit of turns on a cup before removing. the tool will start to get tight, dont be afraid to get a couple more turns on it for insurance.
 

JHILL

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When I did mine red was what the factory had used.
new cups going back in i used loctite 620 green sleeve retainer
 

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