Injector question

2000wa250

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OK, I know it has probably been beat to death, but I'm about to order injectors and want to make sure ive done my homework. I've decided that im going to get 250 hybrids, but i'm all confused on which nozzle i want. What are the pros and cons to the 100% nozzles as well as the 200% nozzles? I'm interested in the simple break down of these different nozzles as they apply to all applications.

thanks guys
 

Cat_rebel

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Did you talk to your injector builder & tuner & see what they had to say? They will give you their honest opinion on what you want to do & what they feel you should be running.
 

2000wa250

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I have all the normal supporting mods, ex, RR, intake, hpx

As far as talking to the tuner and injector builder, thats next on the list. Right now everything I have been told is that both nozzle sizes are streetable with the right turbo and tuning. I'm already planning on upgrading my turbo from the turbonetics BB I have to a T4 type. Basically I'm just looking for opinions and experience with the different nozzle types to help my decision. I'm trying to understand the reasons people have to purchase both.
 

Cat_rebel

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I run 275/200 hybrids from Unlimited with a stock 97 charger & no I/C & had MattR de-tune it nicely. I can daily drive it, EGTs run little more then stock but still in check, runs strong & pulls good mpgs. I have zero issues jumping in it tonight & driving 1000 miles. All I need is a tranny, head studs & a turbo then call Matt & have him turn the wick up & it will rock out.

Are 200s for everyone...no I wouldn't go that far
Is there anything "wring" with a 80% or 100% nozzle....no they have proven themselfs over the years.

Like I said talk to your builder & tuner.
 

2000wa250

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thanks for the info. That is the stuff I was wondering. Basically I just want to make sure that with the right everything, I'm not gonna regret the decision to go with 200's over 100's. From everything I can tell, 200's are the right size for a streetable truck. Basically my goal is to be somewhere around 500 horse, but not be pushing anything to its max in order for things to last.
 

2000wa250

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Tom, thank you for the link and video. That definitely is a curious issue. It seems the problem with idle with large nozzles is that even at low ICP a lot of fuel is still being injected due to the large nozzle. Therefore, I believe that it could be fixed if the truck is started in high idle.
 

moose99psd

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As much as I don't like my idle at times I really don't like the idea of hitting 1100rpms on cold start in the middle of winter.

i have to agree completely, the computer advances the timing when its cold, and with the complete "roll of the dice" with these motors i wouldnt risk it... ive seen them puke a rode idling across a parking lot, and theres proof that they can run at 700hp and live so..
 

Cat_rebel

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I've had a chip malfunction before & it would randomly resort to #5 position which was 1100rpm high idle. Start the truck up & it would rev right up to 1100rpms. Shut it off & restart & it might idle normal or it might go right to 1100rpms & not leave that position. I got a new chip with the same tunes & never had another issue. But a 40° cold start at 1100rpms will always wake you up in a hurry.
The biggest issue I see in running your idle at 1100rpms is unless you have a manual you will be fighting your brakes with an auto. My IDI had a cold advance where it would idle up to around 1000rpms when you cold started it & tapped the throttle. I would pop out within 4-10+mins, got tired of trying to drive with hi idle so it was unplugged then the actuator met an angle grinder because it was always in my way.
 

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