Do you read at all? Sugestions are just that. I personally think 175/30s are a waist of time and money. My only points with the 38r are that it's proven and simple to instal, I happen to like the H2E setup for the record also. Power to power the 38r/238 combo will beat the H2E/175 anyday, with or without ANY suporting mods but for how long??
Injectors & turbo??
- Thread starter tankmech_250
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Do you read at all? Sugestions are just that. I personally think 175/30s are a waist of time and money. My only points with the 38r are that it's proven and simple to instal, I happen to like the H2E setup for the record also. Power to power the 38r/238 combo will beat the H2E/175 anyday, with or without ANY suporting mods but for how long??
tankmech_250
New member
I would like to stay reasonably mild AT FIRST so if I were to get any where near 350-400hp would make me extremly happy for a little bit. I'm considering that mild compared to others trucks I've read about on here. I think that is a good reasonable goal for me to get comfortable with this type of vehicle. I'm not new to being a mechanic I just work on stuff thats a lot bigger and we don't go for performance. So this is all basically a learning lesson.
then spend the money on the H2E, H2E is a great turbo because you can always get it modded to suport more power. I still will stick to a 238/100 because of the afordability and room to detune or grow through tunning.
350-400hp...
AC code injectors, 38r with a 1.15 housing... If you want to be at or above 400hp then throw a set of 100% nozzles on the AC's.
AC's with a 100% nozzle, 38r or H2e and SRP-1 would put you right at 425hp...
I just dont see the need for a standard hybrid on every truck. If your looking for more then 450hp, then go for it, but otherwise a new set of AC injectors are some of the best money spent.
No studs needed, No valve springs, no tranny changes (assuming you have a good valve body and tunning), just throw them in and drive.
tankmech_250
New member
Is there a way to tell what kind of turbo i have now. on the back it says 1.00 A/R and right above where it says GARRETT is a number-383ECL18686. I'll try to get a pic when there is more light out.
Stock turbo is a Garrett turbo... Doubtful its anything more then a stocker.
Ar on the intake side is 1.00, on the exhaust it .84...
Factory turbo has a 3" non ported intake, 38R has a 4" ported...
38R is a 1.00 intake and a 1.00 exhaust.
tankmech_250
New member
I figured it would be stock just thought it would be worth checking. Thanks for the info.
Tom S
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That is a good post. I am tempted to step up to nozzles on mine one of these days.
Injectors, turbo, hpop, trans, push rods, forged rod motor swap blahblah who gives a fawk about the truck I sold. He wants to progressively build the truck so why limit the injector and waist his money, you can't beat the price and proven output of a 238 hybrid.
Sure, its better to piss away money on used injectors you dont need rather then get a new set that meet your goals.:doh:
Okay what price for ACs and max power output with leta say a 38r?
NEW, not rebuilt AC's can be had for $1500... With a 38R they will put down 350-400hp. Will not require studs, springs, pushrods, tranny upgrades or anything other then tuning.
Throw a set of 100% nozzles on those same NEW AC's and your looking at 425+ depending on your mods.
They run clean, cool and smoke free.
Best injectors I have experanced thus far in about 8 different sets.
Throw a set of 100% nozzles on those same NEW AC's and your looking at 425+ depending on your mods.
They run clean, cool and smoke free.
Best injectors I have experanced thus far in about 8 different sets.
caladash
New member
Tankmech, are you in jacksonville by chance? If so pm me.
Do you not see my point of putting an injector in once and calling it done? You will not have any issues with a 238 Hybrid from Full Force or Unlimited if your on this "new" kick...why not run the injector that can be grown into when it only costs acouple hundred more, do the larger nozzle on the ACs and they are now at the same price....If he wants 375hp to start then fine some 238s will be peerfect for the single fact that he already knows he will want to go bigger which you and I both know 238s can support 500hp.
Big Bore
New member
Too many hours on the road, pretty sure I was thinking of Bigstrokers truck that Matt tuned and it was in mid 500's?
big_stroker
New member
SkySki Jason
New member
I have stock AC codes and a 38R on my F350. LOTS of fun to drive and an awesome towing rig. When I built the engine I did do studs, valve springs, chromo push rods, etc - but I knew the AC codes and 38R were just the beginning.
BTS is by far the best investment I have made yet. Not only is trans great, but the education from hanging out with Brian for a day is worth the investment.
I agree with whoever said have your END GOAL in mind when ya start your build. ie, if you know ya wanna make 450+HP one day with a charger making 50psi - I think its 100% worth pulling the engine to install studs, springs, etc AND do your 'initial' injector/turbo swap at the same time. You can always do big oil, turbos and injectors in the truck later.
My opinion is fuel system mods are a waste of money. #8 starvation in particular is waaaay overblown and the factory system does an excellent job of filtering the fuel (with the exception of the in-tank mixing chamber/pre-filter - it has to GO). Deadheaded, the factory fuel system can easily support 400-450HP and prolly quite a bit more. This opinion is seldom shared by people who invested in RR, so I will now don my flame-suit!
To start with, I'd plan to 'fix' all the issues and parasitic losses common to our engines - up-pipe leaks, boost leaks, oil leaks, etc. (ie. - Int'l bellowed up-pipes, Riffraff CAC boots and plenum inserts with t-bar clamps)
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