Knock Knock, *** Me

BuiltPowerStrokeTough · Feb 7, 2017

Wayne, I dont know if its been discussed yet, but it seems like youve got a look at the '17 shortblocks/longblocks. Did they end up making any changes to the core of these engines (pistons, rods, block, head, etc.) or are they still all the same part numbers?

Sorry if this is a quick derail! Figured though that you had Eriks torn apart, its still somewhat relevant.

Black AOD · Feb 7, 2017

BuiltPowerStrokeTough said:
Wayne, I dont know if its been discussed yet, but it seems like youve got a look at the '17 shortblocks/longblocks. Did they end up making any changes to the core of these engines (pistons, rods, block, head, etc.) or are they still all the same part numbers?

Sorry if this is a quick derail! Figured though that you had Eriks torn apart, its still somewhat relevant.

I too am very curious about this.

Breaking Habits · Feb 7, 2017

Black AOD said:
I too am very curious about this.

Rods are different only to accommodate the larger diameter wristpins

As well as the pistons, to accommodate pins

New water pump, oil cooler, that's probably about the bulk of it.

Jared

Wayne · Feb 7, 2017

...and there you have it :jammin: I think I mentioned it earlier, but the 12 mm engine mount bolt holes are now larger at 14 mm, so you'll have to bore out your old engine mounts if you want to reuse them on the new block. Updated mounts are available, and required to be used by Ford dealers, but you get the point, right? Ford also offers plugs to go inside the water pump to cap off the extra ports on the new pump if it's going in a steel bodied truck. That, and they also updated the turbo and pedestal again. They now have an internal oil supply, so the stainless pipe coming from the front of the pedestal into the top is now replaced with machining inside the casting. If nothing else, it's a little cleaner.

BuiltPowerStrokeTough · Feb 7, 2017

Thanks for the info Jared and Wayne!

CATDiezel · Feb 7, 2017

Wayne said:
...and there you have it :jammin: I think I mentioned it earlier, but the 12 mm engine mount bolt holes are now larger at 14 mm, so you'll have to bore out your old engine mounts if you want to reuse them on the new block. Updated mounts are available, and required to be used by Ford dealers, but you get the point, right? Ford also offers plugs to go inside the water pump to cap off the extra ports on the new pump if it's going in a steel bodied truck. That, and they also updated the turbo and pedestal again. They now have an internal oil supply, so the stainless pipe coming from the front of the pedestal into the top is now replaced with machining inside the casting. If nothing else, it's a little cleaner.

The steel line being gone is worth the depreciation and spending another $20k for a 17!!

Kidding, but that makes great sense!!

Wayne · Feb 7, 2017

Hey, you can throw a '17 turbo and pedestal on any 6.7. It's still a bolt on situation, and can be interchanged, even going backwards if you ever felt inclined. Functionally not much different than that of a '15, but visually simpler. One of my favorite parts about getting rid of the '11-'14 stock turbos in favor of the newer ones is the e clip for the coolant return line. They regularly leak, and are a real pain to undo with the waste gate diaphragm in the way. The updated tube is much better IMO.

This has been a good truck to have as one of my last big jobs at the dealership before I'm done here at the end of the week. Getting first hand experience on the new stuff, as well as all the knowledge and training Ford offers it's dealerships has been great, but it'll be a nice change of pace to get back to full time independent where I get to work on more "cool" stuff like this, and not get stuck with the crappy warranty labor times.

Spatel23 · Feb 7, 2017

where you off to now Wayne ?

Wayne · Feb 7, 2017

I have my own shop that I've done part time for the past 2 1/2 years. For fear of rocking the vendor boat, I'd rather not mention the name. I've just gotten busy enough doing performance stuff on the side, that I can't keep up. Hopefully after a few months of success I'll sign up as a vendor

bigrpowr · Feb 7, 2017

Wayne said:
I have my own shop that I've done part time for the past 2 1/2 years. For fear of rocking the vendor boat, I'd rather not mention the name. I've just gotten busy enough doing performance stuff on the side, that I can't keep up. Hopefully after a few months of success I'll sign up as a vendor

yeah buddy !

Tom@BigTimeKustomz · Feb 8, 2017

Congrats Wayne!

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Erikclaw · Feb 8, 2017

Jomax said:
I don't think it's luck anymore with Eric.. I'm surprised he hasn't given up on Ford entirely...

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Im either stupid or dense....

Wayne said:
...and there you have it :jammin: I think I mentioned it earlier, but the 12 mm engine mount bolt holes are now larger at 14 mm, so you'll have to bore out your old engine mounts if you want to reuse them on the new block. Updated mounts are available, and required to be used by Ford dealers, but you get the point, right? Ford also offers plugs to go inside the water pump to cap off the extra ports on the new pump if it's going in a steel bodied truck. That, and they also updated the turbo and pedestal again. They now have an internal oil supply, so the stainless pipe coming from the front of the pedestal into the top is now replaced with machining inside the casting. If nothing else, it's a little cleaner.

Wayne said:
Hey, you can throw a '17 turbo and pedestal on any 6.7. It's still a bolt on situation, and can be interchanged, even going backwards if you ever felt inclined. Functionally not much different than that of a '15, but visually simpler. One of my favorite parts about getting rid of the '11-'14 stock turbos in favor of the newer ones is the e clip for the coolant return line. They regularly leak, and are a real pain to undo with the waste gate diaphragm in the way. The updated tube is much better IMO.

This has been a good truck to have as one of my last big jobs at the dealership before I'm done here at the end of the week. Getting first hand experience on the new stuff, as well as all the knowledge and training Ford offers it's dealerships has been great, but it'll be a nice change of pace to get back to full time independent where I get to work on more "cool" stuff like this, and not get stuck with the crappy warranty labor times.

Wayne has been great, got it done in a heartbeat but paperwork issues are dragging it down. Something that was sent to me never arrived, I need it to complete paperwork to get this truck back, or write them a check. It boils down to waiting on Ford to resend paperwork I need for DMV.

Erikclaw · Mar 17, 2017

Truck is home, long drive to get here. It has a corrupted PCM thats been bad for a long time just didn't know what set a glow plug module code. So first thing now is getting a new one and fixing it to drive it to Az. Think ********s tunes did it the first time it was tuned. Had that code ever since and revisions wouldn't get rid of it.

cappa · Mar 17, 2017

Do you have both nox modules removed from the truck. I only removed one and the other one shorted out in the winter and popped fuse #36 under the hood and threw the lost communication with glow plug module code. Removed module and replaced the fuse and all was good. Not sure what year your truck is but my 15 had two.

Erikclaw · Mar 17, 2017

Not module? Would be nice if that coukd fix it.

Wayne · Mar 17, 2017

Thanks for the input Cappa. That's a new one to me, and could save Erik a few benjamins. Erik will try that very first. The GPCM did lose communication with the pcm, and the only way I can get IDS to talk to the PCM is remove the competition programming. Even at that, the pcm will not accept a reprogram or a complete re-burn with as-built data. Long story short, I had very little time to do any diag unrelated to the motor failure, and my main concern was re-setting the minimum fuel tables as it had fuel knock on the new motor, which we did at the last minute.

Erikclaw · Mar 17, 2017

ok disconected nox , put fuse in the spot that didn't have one. #36 manual says it is suppose to have a 15a. Now just sets code P106A . tuner doesn't know what it is, doesn't show up with a check engine light.

cappa · Mar 17, 2017

Just checking. Put fuse in spot that didn't have one meaning that fuse was burnt out in the #36 spot? I was also getting a code related to maf of some sort when my module shorted out, should clear thou if that was the issue.

Erikclaw · Mar 17, 2017

cappa said:
Just checking. Put fuse in spot that didn't have one meaning that fuse was burnt out in the #36 spot? I was also getting a code related to maf of some sort when my module shorted out, should clear thou if that was the issue.

No, there was no fuse there. Never took it out, no clue what happened. Thinking this did it, no check engine light. Going to drive it a bit to see if it comes back. If it doesn't will update the pcm via IDS

cappa · Mar 17, 2017

Nice, hopefully that fixes it. I was pretty happy when I realized that was all that was wrong with mine. That's weird that there was no fuse in that slot thou. That's in the fuse panel under the hood as well hey?