Lift pump psi?

[stroker221]

I guess I was lucky but I drove for over a week every day after my ad 2 crapped. Bought another $200 motor and filled out the lifetime warranty paper and off I went. Cant say the same for the 24v. It lasted maybe one day before it started cutting in and out and took a minute to be able to start. On the 6.4 if I didn't notice not being able to hear it I wouldn't of ever known it had stopped working

 

[sootie]

I guess I was lucky but I drove for over a week every day after my ad 2 crapped. Bought another $200 motor and filled out the lifetime warranty paper and off I went. Cant say the same for the 24v. It lasted maybe one day before it started cutting in and out and took a minute to be able to start. On the 6.4 if I didn't notice not being able to hear it I wouldn't of ever known it had stopped working

your poor hpfp

 

[devdiesel]

Fuelab here, certainly no complains! Worth every penny


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[capt dong]

My ad died on me at my bayhouse. Was without my truck for a week and a half. Ironic how a "reliability" mod failed almost at the worst time. I have lifetime warranty and so far this 2nd motor has been good.

Over a 100k miles and stuff is gonna start breaking no matter what vehicle. My mishi rad cracked and was putting in a replacement on xmas eve. Horrible timing again and "better" product wasnt any better. So i ended my search for a 2nd vehicle. When stuff breaks on my daily ill have something else to drive until i fix it. Either that or sell and buy something new.

 

[stroker221]

your poor hpfp

No other choice... And a week later I bought a tdi just in case something like this happens again.

 

[BroncOJ]

Is the questionable reliability of the AD's isolated to certain models? I have one on my Cummins that has been holding strong for 7 years. Maybe I was just lucky.

I do agree with the recommendations to go with fuelab or aeromotive. Guess I will be doing one sooner than later since I have a quick connect leaking on factory lift.

 

[footlong70]

Over 3 years on my AD 165 with zero hiccups. -40c weather to +35c temps. Still putting out the same ol 10 PSI I set it to on day one.

I have seen an airdog on a 6.4 be mistaken for failing when it turned out to be poor wiring/corroded connections. Cutting in and out, not turning on at all, and turning the pump over slowly. Not saying it's the issue but always worth checking first for anyone having issues..

 

[SEABEE08FX4]

The HPFP doesn't like more than 10 PSI, seals will start leaking. Keep it below that. My FASS only puts out 7 psi right out of the box and that's plenty. I don't even have a regulator on it, just plumbed straight to the HPFP. You guys should look at the size of the hole your trying to shove all that fuel through on the HPFP. Whether its 5 PSI or 15 PSI you can only move so much fluid through that hole, however the increased pressure will blow past the seals and leak into the crankcase.

 

[stroker221]

The HPFP doesn't like more than 10 PSI, seals will start leaking. Keep it below that. My FASS only puts out 7 psi right out of the box and that's plenty. I don't even have a regulator on it, just plumbed straight to the HPFP. You guys should look at the size of the hole your trying to shove all that fuel through on the HPFP. Whether its 5 PSI or 15 PSI you can only move so much fluid through that hole, however the increased pressure will blow past the seals and leak into the crankcase.

Curious to how your fuel is ran.. From lp pump straight to high pressure then from the return on hp straight back to tank? No cooler? Heads returns back to tank then too?

 

[SEABEE08FX4]

Curious to how your fuel is ran.. From lp pump straight to high pressure then from the return on hp straight back to tank? No cooler? Heads returns back to tank then too?

Its run from the FASS to a Y block, then straight to the HPFP. The return from the heads and the HPFP are tied together and go straight to a bulkhead fittimng in the tank. I replaced all the factory lines from tank to motor and back to tank.

 

[BroncOJ]

Its run from the FASS to a Y block, then straight to the HPFP. The return from the heads and the HPFP are tied together and go straight to a bulkhead fittimng in the tank. I replaced all the factory lines from tank to motor and back to tank.

This sounds like the ultimate fuel bowl "da lete", but I always wondered if doing this was too much for the HPFP's volume control valve.

How many miles do you have on this setup SEABEE & what is downstream of the Y opposite of the HPFP?

Thanks

 

[SEABEE08FX4]

That's the fuel temp sensor. And I'd say some where around 5k miles. As long as you know you're not pumping more than 10psi it should be fine. I did it unregulated as an experiment just to see, and it never goes over 8psi so I left it that way.

 

[capt dong]

Where do yall have the pressure gauge hooked up to?

 

[SEABEE08FX4]

A port on the Y block.

 

[capt dong]

Is the y block off your diy fuel bowl d lete?

 

[SEABEE08FX4]

Yeah, its a Vibrant Performance part.

 

[capt dong]

Willing to share some pics of the setup?

 

[SEABEE08FX4]

Willing to share some pics of the setup?

I'll have to take some, that's really all the pictures I took of it. Below is a list though.

FASS PN # FL-1001 ( 14' )

FASS PN # FL-1002 ( 14' )

FASS PN # STK-5500BO

Fuelab PN # 083-71502

Earl's PN # 361-9919EFG

Earl's PN # 361-921108

Vibrant PN # 22006

Vibrant PN # 16456

Vibrant PN # 10822

Vibrant PN # 10225 ( Two )

Vibrant PN # 22906

Vibrant PN # 10493

Vibrant PN # 22908

FASS PN # T F16 220G

 

[capt dong]

I appreciate it. I was gonna give it a go myself. Those part numbers will help out a lot. I figure just connect the supply lines together and the returns together and put a gauge in there as well.

 

[powerstroked08]

If your wondering about the fuelab install or whatnot here ya go. Its beyond simple! I have ZERO complaints.
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66755