Lifter replacement cost?

Kbuterbaugh04 · Mar 30, 2015

Truck is in the shop getting oil cooler, updates, machined heads, studs, gaskets, etc...

Have a set of Motorcraft filters and cap but it's too late. I fell victim to aftermarket filters and cap due to previous owner. Broke the center part and lifters are showing some wear.

475 to replace since it's already tore down, sound about right?

sootie · Mar 30, 2015

if heads are off already...that sounds right.

Kbuterbaugh04 · Mar 30, 2015

Yupp they are off for a valve job and machining.

Tore my guts out telling him to go ahead and replace them. But 475 is better than a couple grand once they let go, especially when I knew about it

suprdzlduty · Mar 30, 2015

I know you probably don't want to spend more money but it would be the best time to put in a colt cam.

Kbuterbaugh04 · Mar 30, 2015

Honestly don't have the money. Lucky to have enough for the added cost of lifters. I'd like to put in a cam, but injectors may be next investment. Slight misfire when cold.

Bustedknuckles · Mar 30, 2015

Kbuterbaugh04 said:
Honestly don't have the money. Lucky to have enough for the added cost of lifters. I'd like to put in a cam, but injectors may be next investment. Slight misfire when cold.

Put some archoil 9600 in it. Bet it clears up.

Kbuterbaugh04 · Mar 30, 2015

Bustedknuckles said:
Put some archoil 9600 in it. Bet it clears up.

Yupp I'm gonna start adding oil additive with oil analysis from now on.

Random question, with the arfermarket filter messing up the valve. Does the assembly need replaced or just the valve?

DEEZUZ · Apr 2, 2015

that sounds cheap considering engine has to be pulled or trans removed to remove rear cover...

DEEZUZ · Apr 2, 2015

CTC DEEZUL said:
that sounds cheap considering engine has to be pulled or trans removed to remove rear cover...

Kinda sorta on topic.. heres a screen I pulled out of a 365 today. The truck kept getting new IPRs every 1000 miles, wouldnt start hot. they finally brought the truck to us and first thing first, it had the aftermarket oil filter and broken stand pipe.. so all that time, no oil filtration.... I gave them a few more months on this engine and itll be toast...

Kbuterbaugh04 · Apr 3, 2015

CTC DEEZUL said:
that sounds cheap considering engine has to be pulled or trans removed to remove rear cover...

Cab was already up and top end pulled to studs, machining, cooler, egr delete, etc...

04stroker · Apr 3, 2015

Kbuterbaugh04 said:
Cab was already up and top end pulled to studs, machining, cooler, egr delete, etc...

On a 6.0 you still have to pull the trans or engine and rear cover to do lifters due to the high pressure oil branch tubes being in the way getting the rear ones out.

Kbuterbaugh04 · Apr 3, 2015

Yes. I just threw that it in there so people don't think it's a quick 400 dollar drive way fix lol

powerstrokedkid87 · Apr 3, 2015

04stroker said:
On a 6.0 you still have to pull the trans or engine and rear cover to do lifters due to the high pressure oil branch tubes being in the way getting the rear ones out.

this

just make sure they are replacing all of them, and not just the fronts.

DEEZUZ · Apr 3, 2015

While we are on lifter failure, I had a new theory ran by me... Someone expressed that the low oil pressure these things have when hot at idle is what kills these lifters... Thoughts??

Kbuterbaugh04 · Apr 3, 2015

powerstrokedkid87 said:
this

just make sure they are replacing all of them, and not just the fronts.

Yupp replaced all 16. Think it totalled 450 for parts and their labor

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

450 is way to high if the motor is already apart you can get the lifters off ebay for like 150 so somebody is making a killing it seems.there is really only reason lifters go out and that's excessive pressure from the push rods.they have a longer and shorter push rod out there.if you take say .004 off the head you are putting that load on the lifter and if you have the longer push rods it could spell disaster for you bud.

the oil pressure stock at idle is somewhere around 15-20 psi stock calls for 12 psi@ 700 rpm 24 psi@1200 rpm and 45 psi@1800 rpm.but it's the load that is put on them is what kills them so while you have it apart tell them to look at the push rods and make sure there are no gouges on the push rod "that is a weak spot on the push rod and will cause it to bend under pressure.

04stroker · Apr 3, 2015

I think that price is not bad at all for OEM lifters and labor. It is not just as simple as sliding them in on a 6.0 if the heads and cab are off you still have to pull the trans or engine and the rear cover.

sootie · Apr 3, 2015

equalizier said:
450 is way to high if the motor is already apart you can get the lifters off ebay for like 150 so somebody is making a killing it seems.there is really only reason lifters go out and that's excessive pressure from the push rods.they have a longer and shorter push rod out there.if you take say .004 off the head you are putting that load on the lifter and if you have the longer push rods it could spell disaster for you bud.

the oil pressure stock at idle is somewhere around 15-20 psi stock calls for 12 psi@ 700 rpm 24 psi@1200 rpm and 45 psi@1800 rpm.but it's the load that is put on them is what kills them so while you have it apart tell them to look at the push rods and make sure there are no gouges on the push rod "that is a weak spot on the push rod and will cause it to bend under pressure.

Huh?

Kbuterbaugh04 · Apr 3, 2015

I'm not finding lifters for 150, especially new oem. Also, they tore it down Monday, and had everything done by Wednesday. It would have taken a few days to get lifters shipped from a ebay seller, so for the convenience I'd say the price went up some, but I'll check the receipt again. It might have been lower

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

also make sure they replace all 16 most shops will short cut and say they did and didn't one main reason i do all my own work.like when a shop does a stud job they just lift the cab and slap gaskets on it.well say you just paid 7k bucks and your going down the road and the motor lets loose.this all could have been avoided if they would have pulled the motor and pulled the pan to see if they see glitter city.if you did bam you stop and decide what to do from there.but if everything looks good you replace the oring on the pick up tube and the gasket on the windage plate and put the pan back on.

then you pull heads and rear cover and branch tubes and look at EACH LIFTER and give it a clean bill of health.i will say if you replace one REPLACE them ALL as the others will not be far behind.once you have made it this far it's pretty much orings in the hpop system and seals.here is a little tip to tell them that i bet hardly anyone does and its added assurance which i call piece of mind.that little 3/4mm nut at the top of the injector is notorious for coming loose.i would take the extra time and just put a little dab of lock tite you will be glad you did.the smallest things can cause the biggest problems on these 6.0's