Lifter replacement cost?

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

sootie said:
Huh?

450 is to high if the motor is already out and apart to be honest it shouldn't be anymore as it's a process to check anyway when doing a stud job right.

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

sootie said:
Huh?

someone was asking about lifter failure and thought low oil pressure at idle
causes it and i was just giving oem specs and telling them that's not the case.what causes lifter failure is excessive pressure from the longer push rods and on top of that what you take off the head adds to it making it worse.

sootie · Apr 3, 2015

equalizier said:
someone was asking about lifter failure and thought low oil pressure at idle
causes it and i was just giving oem specs and telling them that's not the case.what causes lifter failure is excessive pressure from the longer push rods and on top of that what you take off the head adds to it making it worse.

not entirely true...

powerstrokedkid87 · Apr 3, 2015

equalizier said:
also make sure they replace all 16 most shops will short cut and say they did and didn't one main reason i do all my own work.like when a shop does a stud job they just lift the cab and slap gaskets on it.well say you just paid 7k bucks and your going down the road and the motor lets loose.this all could have been avoided if they would have pulled the motor and pulled the pan to see if they see glitter city.if you did bam you stop and decide what to do from there.but if everything looks good you replace the oring on the pick up tube and the gasket on the windage plate and put the pan back on.

then you pull heads and rear cover and branch tubes and look at EACH LIFTER and give it a clean bill of health.i will say if you replace one REPLACE them ALL as the others will not be far behind.once you have made it this far it's pretty much orings in the hpop system and seals.here is a little tip to tell them that i bet hardly anyone does and its added assurance which i call piece of mind.that little 3/4mm nut at the top of the injector is notorious for coming loose.i would take the extra time and just put a little dab of lock tite you will be glad you did.the smallest things can cause the biggest problems on these 6.0's

That's a very bold and generalized statement right there...... I wont mess up Kolbys thread but short cuts and screwing customers, is not something your going to find from any vendor/shop on this site. The business's on this page pride themselves in their work, not making a quick buck. And just FYI 450 is a good solid price for lifters, considering as its been mentioned now 4 times, that just because the cab is up, doesn't mean the motor is completely torn down, it still has to be removed from the truck and the rear cover removed, which not only takes time but also additional parts. id say Kolby got a great deal, consider a set of lifters prob runs around 350$, and they only charged him 100$ for the additional labor to pull the engine, which I can assume took prob 2-3 hours to R&R. that's enough of a rant...

Kolby glad to see you finally got the truck studded...let me know when your ready for more parts!

DEEZUZ · Apr 3, 2015

04stroker said:
I think that price is not bad at all for OEM lifters and labor. It is not just as simple as sliding them in on a 6.0 if the heads and cab are off you still have to pull the trans or engine and the rear cover.

This.. That's why I said that's cheap... Rear. Cover seal and rear main...

DEEZUZ · Apr 3, 2015

equalizier said:
450 is to high if the motor is already out and apart to be honest it shouldn't be anymore as it's a process to check anyway when doing a stud job right.

Umm.. Who are you??

Kbuterbaugh04 · Apr 3, 2015

In my case, I was informed with the aftermarket filters, the unfiltered oil can cause wear. They weren't too bad, but could present a problem later on.

He didn't express any concern about the rods and the bottom end still looked factory. I got lucky and caught several problems while doing a "stud and cooler" job

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

powerstrokedkid87 said:
That's a very bold and generalized statement right there...... I wont mess up Kolbys thread but short cuts and screwing customers, is not something your going to find from any vendor/shop on this site. The business's on this page pride themselves in their work, not making a quick buck. And just FYI 450 is a good solid price for lifters, considering as its been mentioned now 4 times, that just because the cab is up, doesn't mean the motor is completely torn down, it still has to be removed from the truck and the rear cover removed, which not only takes time but also additional parts. id say Kolby got a great deal, consider a set of lifters prob runs around 350$, and they only charged him 100$ for the additional labor to pull the engine, which I can assume took prob 2-3 hours to R&R. that's enough of a rant...

Kolby glad to see you finally got the truck studded...let me know when your ready for more parts!

i do not know who is doing the work just moreless saying make sure you get what you pay for.i'm glad there are honest shops out there it does go along way.

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

CTC DEEZUL said:
Umm.. Who are you??

ummm...what does that matter?from my under standing the motor is already out and tore apart and i don't understand what he is being charged for.

Kbuterbaugh04 · Apr 3, 2015

Cab was lifted and heads pulled for machining. They took the time and searched more into the motor and found lifters wore and a slight misfire in my injectors. Anyways.

The motor was pulled, it was still in the frame when I saw it, which was after lifter replacement, which all 16 were on the floor laying.

How far they took the motor down, I have no idea. The shop had 15 or so powerstroke in the lot at all times, so I'm sure they are honest, aside from their religion.

Hopefully this clears it up.

Kbuterbaugh04 · Apr 3, 2015

powerstrokedkid87 said:
That's a very bold and generalized statement right there...... I wont mess up Kolbys thread but short cuts and screwing customers, is not something your going to find from any vendor/shop on this site. The business's on this page pride themselves in their work, not making a quick buck. And just FYI 450 is a good solid price for lifters, considering as its been mentioned now 4 times, that just because the cab is up, doesn't mean the motor is completely torn down, it still has to be removed from the truck and the rear cover removed, which not only takes time but also additional parts. id say Kolby got a great deal, consider a set of lifters prob runs around 350$, and they only charged him 100$ for the additional labor to pull the engine, which I can assume took prob 2-3 hours to R&R. that's enough of a rant...

Kolby glad to see you finally got the truck studded...let me know when your ready for more parts!

Thanks Mark! Parts were perfect and went in no problem. I sent you a text the other day about a tuner. I need some info on tunes as well

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

Kbuterbaugh04 said:
In my case, I was informed with the aftermarket filters, the unfiltered oil can cause wear. They weren't too bad, but could present a problem later on.

He didn't express any concern about the rods and the bottom end still looked factory. I got lucky and caught several problems while doing a "stud and cooler" job

that's good that you caught the problems no doubt.i guess i just do things differently when i stud a motor.i personally pull it i do not pull cabs i do the job right the first time.when i pull the motor the first thing i do is pull the pan to see like i said glitter city.by doing this will save you alot of money period hands down.ok if everything looks good we can go to the next step pulling heads,rear cover,branch tubes and looking at each lifter to give them a clean bill of health"which is what is suppost to be done when you do a stud job is it not fella's".after the lifters have been given the ok you clean the surface of the block and check heads for cracks exc.i replace every oring in the hpo system so the system will be problem free for a long time unless an injector or hpop or sensor goes.don't really know what everyone is getting worked up about.

just sounds like who ever is doing the stud job doesn't include or looks at the lifters and when they do go deeper that's when they charge.i guess that's why i'm a little higher than others but i've had no complaints so far.i mean as a customer i quote the job and do not call the customer later saying well we didn't catch this and it's going to be x amount of dollars i'm sure you guys understand what i'm saying.

sootie · Apr 3, 2015

equalizier said:
that's good that you caught the problems no doubt.i guess i just do things differently when i stud a motor.i personally pull it i do not pull cabs i do the job right the first time.when i pull the motor the first thing i do is pull the pan to see like i said glitter city.by doing this will save you alot of money period hands down.ok if everything looks good we can go to the next step pulling heads,rear cover,branch tubes and looking at each lifter to give them a clean bill of health"which is what is suppost to be done when you do a stud job is it not fella's".after the lifters have been given the ok you clean the surface of the block and check heads for cracks exc.i replace every oring in the hpo system so the system will be problem free for a long time unless an injector or hpop or sensor goes.don't really know what everyone is getting worked up about.

just sounds like who ever is doing the stud job doesn't include or looks at the lifters and when they do go deeper that's when they charge.i guess that's why i'm a little higher than others but i've had no complaints so far.i mean as a customer i quote the job and do not call the customer later saying well we didn't catch this and it's going to be x amount of dollars i'm sure you guys understand what i'm saying.

Your posts make my eyes hurt.

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

sootie said:
not entirely true...

why wouldn't it be and yes unfiltered oil can take its toll.but the majority
is excessive pressure on the lifter that's why those needle bearings usually go.

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

Kbuterbaugh04 said:
Cab was lifted and heads pulled for machining. They took the time and searched more into the motor and found lifters wore and a slight misfire in my injectors. Anyways.

The motor was pulled, it was still in the frame when I saw it, which was after lifter replacement, which all 16 were on the floor laying.

How far they took the motor down, I have no idea. The shop had 15 or so powerstroke in the lot at all times, so I'm sure they are honest, aside from their religion.

Hopefully this clears it up.

did you see the trans out because it has to be removed and recover and branch tubes to acess the last 4 lifters on each side in the rear.

sootie · Apr 3, 2015

equalizier said:
why wouldn't it be and yes unfiltered oil can take its toll.but the majority
is excessive pressure on the lifter that's why those needle bearings usually go.

Firstly, lifters fail on bone stock trucks that have never had head work done or tolerances changed. Secondly, lifters are hydraulic, its not like we are talking solid lifters here.

Kbuterbaugh04 · Apr 3, 2015

equalizier said:
did you see the trans out because it has to be removed and recover and branch tubes to acess the last 4 lifters on each side in the rear.

Personally no, I only stopped it when in the area. I remember seeing something about branch tubes in the work order

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

sootie said:
Firstly, lifters fail on bone stock trucks that have never had head work done or tolerances changed. Secondly, lifters are hydraulic, its not like we are talking solid lifters here.

maybe you need some glasses lol.there are two different size push rods out there.this was causing alot of lifter failures and the up dated versions are shorter like .120 or so.i am very aware what the lifter on a 6.0 is but it seems you still have some learning to catch up on.but just search and you will see what is the root cause of lifter failures.

sootie · Apr 3, 2015

equalizier said:
maybe you need some glasses lol.there are two different size push rods out there.this was causing alot of lifter failures and the up dated versions are shorter like .120 or so.i am very aware what the lifter on a 6.0 is but it seems you still have some learning to catch up on.but just search and you will see what is the root cause of lifter failures.

LOL i remember my first beer...

equalizier · Apr 3, 2015

Kbuterbaugh04 said:
Personally no, I only stopped it when in the area. I remember seeing something about branch tubes in the work order

yes you have to pull branch tubes to access the lifters.i would just ask out of conversation did they replace the rear main seal when they pulled the trans.if they say no they did not replace the last 4 lifters on each side.i know you said you seen all 16 lifters but those could have come from anywhere.but if you trust the shop by all means i hope you are happy with the work.i myself would like to see all said parts replaced.i either take pics for the customers cause i get some customers that are leery because of being ripped at other shops.i simply offer to tear the truck apart to show them and that makes them feel better.they may have alot of trucks but that really don't mean anything.like everyone calls the dealer ships stealer ships lol know what i mean.

also you can get your parts way cheaper at an international dealer instead of from a ford dealer just fyi.