Light bar and High beams

[YJSONLY]

Has anyone wired the light bar to a switch and also to the high beams?

So if aux/up fitter switch is ON. When the high beams are ON so is the light bar. Then if aux/up fitter switch is OFF and Brights are ON the light bar is OFF.

So could the high beam circuit handle a 20inch or so light bar tapped off of it?

I mean in my mind it works great. Use a relay off the high beam circuit to energize the Aux switch. If switch is on there be LIGHT from light bar.

Also how wide of a light bar can be put in without losing the tow hooks? 20-24?

I have a 6.7 on order and trying to get my STUFF ready to be put on when it gets here!

 

[MEDIC350]

I've seen a 20" bar done like your describing not sure if he went as far as hooking up a relay and putting an aux switch in the mix but i know he had it hooked to the high beam drivers side wires

 

[louisianashooter]

Has anyone wired the light bar to a switch and also to the high beams?

So if aux/up fitter switch is ON. When the high beams are ON so is the light bar. Then if aux/up fitter switch is OFF and Brights are ON the light bar is OFF.

So could the high beam circuit handle a 20inch or so light bar tapped off of it?

I mean in my mind it works great. Use a relay off the high beam circuit to energize the Aux switch. If switch is on there be LIGHT from light bar.

Also how wide of a light bar can be put in without losing the tow hooks? 20-24?

I have a 6.7 on order and trying to get my STUFF ready to be put on when it gets here!

I don't take any responsibility for anything that you do. If you've never made a relay harness, I would have someone else do this. But yes, you can wire your light bar to come on with the high beams only if the upfitter (aux) switch is on. If you have the factory ford upfitter switches, switch #1 should supply 12V to 14.5V with a 30 amp fuse in line (as per the owner's manual). Even though the switches are fused, I wouldn't power anything larger than 400 watts with this power source.

Simply put: use your factory high beam harness as the switch signal, and power the relay using Aux #1.

More in depth: The Aux #1 goes to 30 terminal on your relay, ground 85, tap 86 to the positive wire on your high beams (you can find this with a voltmeter) and connect 87 to your light bar. This diagram might help.

I think I'm going to try to wire a 28" or 30" like Maddiesel73 has done in this thread. I don't want to cut or remove my tow hooks. I think 30" is the largest you can fit with hooks.

Good luck.

 

[Clean-15]

What you want can be easily done. You'll need a standard harness for the light bar and an additional relay. Basically you would install the standard harness that came with the light bar normally. The wiring that goes to the switch on the led harness would be cut and attached to pin 87 on your relay. You would then attach the positive side of one of your high beam wires to pin 30. Finally ground pin 85 and hook the unfitted switch to 86. Insulate 87a


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[tbsimmons]

I don't like stock wiring powering anything extra so I would not let the high beam wire power the light bar. I think that would be asking for burnt wires.
I would take the up fitter with the highest amp load and put that to pin 30. 87 is out to the hot side of the Light bar. The high beam hot wire to pin 86 and ground 85. This way the stock wiring is only a trigger wore and the upfitter is carrying the amps.


Sent from the bat phone near a drilling rig.

 

[Clean-15]

I don't like stock wiring powering anything extra so I would not let the high beam wire power the light bar. I think that would be asking for burnt wires.
I would take the up fitter with the highest amp load and put that to pin 30. 87 is out to the hot side of the Light bar. The high beam hot wire to pin 86 and ground 85. This way the stock wiring is only a trigger wore and the upfitter is carrying the amps.


Sent from the bat phone near a drilling rig.

We are both suggesting something similar. Your way relies on the up fitter relay, my on the relay that comes with the light bar. Either will work great. Neither suggests powering anything with just the high beam circuit.


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[tbsimmons]

We are both suggesting something similar. Your way relies on the up fitter relay, my on the relay that comes with the light bar. Either will work great. Neither suggests powering anything with just the high beam circuit.


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Your way does.

You would then attach the positive side of one of your high beam wires to pin 30. Finally ground pin 85 and hook the unfitted switch to 86. Insulate 87a


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When the relay is closed 87 acc out and 30 Hot side to power acc is closed. So the high beam wire would be the power to the light bar. Way too many amps to run through the stock headlight wires.

 

[Clean-15]

It absolutely does not. Please see the very first part where I say install the light bar harness. Of course this is assuming that the led light bar harness has a relay on it.....


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[Clean-15]

Your way does.

When the relay is closed 87 acc out and 30 Hot side to power acc is closed. So the high beam wire would be the power to the light bar. Way too many amps to run through the stock headlight wires.

I can see where I was unclear. Again I'm assuming he is purchasing a high quality harness with the light bar that includes a relay.


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[tbsimmons]

I see now. The last one I wired didn't have a relay with the plug in harness.


Sent from the bat phone near a drilling rig.

 

[Blue Line Fab]

Thanks for the information guys. I want to add a light bar in the near future and was wondering the best way to wire it in.

 

[louisianashooter]

I don't like stock wiring powering anything extra so I would not let the high beam wire power the light bar. I think that would be asking for burnt wires.
I would take the up fitter with the highest amp load and put that to pin 30. 87 is out to the hot side of the Light bar. The high beam hot wire to pin 86 and ground 85. This way the stock wiring is only a trigger wore and the upfitter is carrying the amps.


Sent from the bat phone near a drilling rig.

pretty much what i said...