Long start time

Dirtclod

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Sounds like mine did sometimes when it got low on oil. I don't know a fraction of what these guys know but from my own experience it sounds like glo plug relay. Also,and I know there will be people to argue this,but would stop running synthetic oil and go with chevron delo. A member on here told me about his own research concerning ipr valve and these engines using hi pressure oil and delo according to him worked best. My other engine ran on full synthetic and it was sick. Not saying that was the issue but this 2000 engine has 260,000 miles and it's flawless. It smoked at first crank before I had it switched and mechanic put a glo plug relay on and that was fixed.
 

BS Hauler

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I think he is loosing fuel pressure when it sits. I bet that somewhere it is sucking air in the line and letting fuel drain back to the tank. A good place to check is back where the fuel line comes out of the tank as it rubs on the frame or another hose on most of these trucks and it let air into the hose and fuel drains back to the tank.
 

hwrdbd

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You guys are all high if you think his starting issue is glow plug related in the middle of summer.
Gotta get the truck hooked to a good scanner or ae or similar so you can watch a few things while cranking, specifically icp and ipr duty cycle
 

FlatbedCowboy

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You guys are all high if you think his starting issue is glow plug related in the middle of summer.
Gotta get the truck hooked to a good scanner or ae or similar so you can watch a few things while cranking, specifically icp and ipr duty cycle

How fast is it turning over? Check your battery terminals/cables.

Im waiting on a Bluetooth OBDII deal to get here so I can use TorquePro or whatever to check the ICP and IPR.

Turning over? I would say slightly slower than I think it should. It sometimes intermittently cuts in and out while cranking. But battery terminals are clean and I put new cable ends on about 4 months ago thinking it would help. Ive had a hard start/ long crank issue since about January.
 

rockycreek

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Im waiting on a Bluetooth OBDII deal to get here so I can use TorquePro or whatever to check the ICP and IPR.

Turning over? I would say slightly slower than I think it should. It sometimes intermittently cuts in and out while cranking. But battery terminals are clean and I put new cable ends on about 4 months ago thinking it would help. Ive had a hard start/ long crank issue since about January.

10 4. Sounds like it could be a HPO system issue like the others have said, but I wouldn't scratch battery/electrical off the list of possibilities. Corroded out cables and crappy cable ends can cause some weird issues. I've seen them with corrosion all the way down to the starter before.
 

Skill_Kills

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Its nothing to do with your glow plugs or relay.
This is the most helpful 7.3 starting post I've found
Originally posted by Dave (Golfer) on PSN 01-20-2010 Thanks Dave

its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously.

I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an injector (poppet valve) issue.

If you hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP (psi) while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.

If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)

if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.

if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.

If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.

If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...

the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoid.

LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?

if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...

I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...

any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?

holler if you need help troubleshooting. take care~ Dave
__________________________________________________ ______________________

Hears some good info also:

7.3L Powerstroke Starting Requirements:
Battery voltage a minimum of 10.5 volts while cranking
RPM at least 100 while cranking. If no tach movement suspect CPS
If you have a scan tool ICP should be 500 PSI ± 25 PSI and fuel
pulse width should be 1 to 6 milliseconds.

The above requirements assume the following:

Correct oil level, oil type and pressure
Correct type of fuel
Correct fuel pressure (53 PSI per Ford spec)
Sufficient air supply (clean air filter & unobstructed intake)
Proper oil level in HPOP reservoir (1 to ¾ inch from top)
Proper glow plug relay and glow plug operation (in cold weather)
Proper injection timing (PCM controlled)
 

FlatbedCowboy

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10 4. Sounds like it could be a HPO system issue like the others have said, but I wouldn't scratch battery/electrical off the list of possibilities. Corroded out cables and crappy cable ends can cause some weird issues. I've seen them with corrosion all the way down to the starter before.

I have been thinking about taking the cable off the starter and cleaning it. Has some oil/dirt buildup, and checking my grounds.
 

ghohouston

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I had a 7.3 the other day with a no start. Icp would read 250 ish cranking, spike to around or over 500, and then drop low, like 100, and then spike back up. Put an ipr in it, no change. Pulled injectors, o rings were fine, guy complained of rough idle/low power when cold, so i figured injectors were worn. 8 new alliant remans, and still same icp. Swapped hpop with my old 15 degree pump, and it fired right up. It was a first for me.
 

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