3brorce
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Dang it all I should of bought my buddies mini max. This is awesome of you guys to do this
MCC Tuning
- Thread starter mike@haller's
- Start date
powerlifter405
Active member
:thumbsup: awesome way to help others!
HD F250
Active member
Nice, you guys are awesome for posting this! I may have to get MCC this summer after I do a few more things to the truck.
ricg
Member
thanks for the post fellas. this is some good info!!
I do owe you big man !
Well, it the spirit of Mike helping us all out with good info, I figured I try to provide some assistance…only my info is on what doesn’t work. I tried to make a program to use the VGT as an exhaust brake. My first attempt was a complete failure….I did my pre-testing (unloaded, but on hills steep enough where when I geared the truck down to 3rd gear, I was revving up to 2800RPM but would still pick up some speed and I went from RPMs of 1100-2800) and measured the speed and EBP. I then “wrote” a program where the only modification I made was to set the vanes to 95% at “0” torque for every RPM on the tables called “Turbo Vane Control 1”, “Turbo Vane Control 2”, and on “Turbo Vane Control Maximum”. I could not appreciate ANY difference in speed or EBP when going down the hills. Keep in mind, I have a hand shaker so I don’t have to worry about locking the TC.
mike@haller's
New member
You probably need to apply it in higher torque tables as well. Also cranking the vanes down to 95% with a load down a hill is probably a little much. Ill look at the tables and see if I can come up with something for you to try.
Fast-6.0
New member
Set your desired exhaust back pressure tables to 80 psi on the top line. Do this for all desired back pressure tables. The zero lb-ft line across the entire rpm range from 550-3450.
The only drawback is that every time you let off the throttle you will have exhaust braking. Done it on 6L's tons of times. Gets a bit annoying on manual trucks though.
The only drawback is that every time you let off the throttle you will have exhaust braking. Done it on 6L's tons of times. Gets a bit annoying on manual trucks though.
mike@haller's
New member
Thanks tadd. Ive found also to generally leave the vane control table alone. What I've found is usually telling it what bp you want in the Desired back pressure table and just letting the computer control the vanes works the best.
Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it.
I figured it would be a PIA that the brake would come on every time I let off the throttle...originally I was hoping to just do that on the "Hot" tune since I don't tow on hot....guess I just have to stay in the throttle all the time!!LOL
I figured it would be a PIA that the brake would come on every time I let off the throttle...originally I was hoping to just do that on the "Hot" tune since I don't tow on hot....guess I just have to stay in the throttle all the time!!LOL
Fenner408
Member
Well guy I need some help now. I was planning on having Eric write me a couple tunes, but I called today and they said he's not using MCC for awhile. So I'm goin to need a hand tuning.
PTSUPERD
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Hey guys. Just FYI. At Dustin's suggestion, I moved this to a new subforum I created just for discussion of sharing of ideas for MCC and the like. 
Start a new thread in the subforum that is created and title it with your tune you need help with.
Like 300 tune for stock turbos. Or DD mileage tune.
This would help guys searching for help later on I think.
Rivets are the new duct tape.
Like 300 tune for stock turbos. Or DD mileage tune.
This would help guys searching for help later on I think.
Rivets are the new duct tape.
superstroked
New member
I had the best results for mileage in my dodge with just a pressure tune. Is there a way to create a pressure only tune for the 6.4 with MCC?? I think it would be along the same lines as the torque module from innovative.
powerlifter405
Active member
You're thinking increasing rail pressure, correct?
In a gasser you can advance timing w/o necessarily increasing fuel to provide basically free HP and mileage.
Could advanced timing and a higher rail pressure w/ a factory pw do the same thing to create a mileage tune?
I've been toying w/ the idea of getting a H&S just for that reason.
My newest IDP tunes do not get the mileage of my older tunes. Some say its beating a dead horse but why ignore improved ignition. @ 4.00/gallon I'll take any help I can get.
superstroked
New member
Stock tuning with only change being rail pressure is what I am thinking. In my head, I feel as though the higher pressure helps with atomization and is more efficient ... I could be off, but....I could also see the advanced timing helping too...the duration is what seems to hurt the mileage
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A big thanks to Mike (again) and Tadd....I took your guys' advice and set vanes back to the stock settings and just raised the Desired BP...I decided to start in smaller steps so I raised it to 50 on all the Desired BP tables at "0" torque for all RPM ranges. It worked great!!! I have fallen in love with truck all over again!!! All of my tests have been unloaded on some pretty steep hills, but it worked really good and sounds awesome. As expected, the higher the RPMs, the more it raised the EBP. At about 2700 RPMs, it raised EBPs to the mid-40s. I don't want to hurt anything and I figure when a heavy load is pushing me down a good hill, they may go a little higher so I am gonna leave as is. I am now going to go back and try to change only one of those tables such as "Hot Engine 1" and hope that means when the engine is warmed up on the "No Power" setting. If that is what "Hot Engine 1" means, that will let me "turn on" the exhaust brake only when running the "No Power" setting.
This "experiment" along with my previous experiments does raise 2 questions from my observations that I do think would help a lot of guys even if they weren't trying make an exhaust brake.
1) When I was trying to lower my EBPs (because they were getting higher than my comfort level) at WOT as a temporary solution until I get my Elite WG installed (it is sitting in my garage but since the cab is going up I am saving to do a valvetrain upgrade while I am in there), the first thing I tried was to lower the Desired EBP, but it didn't have much of an effect. Why? Adjusting vane position didn't do much either. The only real I could get that down was to cut fuel. Of course, these observations do back up Mike's point...try to leave the vanes alone and let the computer figure them out.
2) When I opened the vanes to 95% (when sometimes at stock it was at 50%) at "0" torque throughout the entire RPM range, why didn't that work as an exhaust brake at all?
This "experiment" along with my previous experiments does raise 2 questions from my observations that I do think would help a lot of guys even if they weren't trying make an exhaust brake.
1) When I was trying to lower my EBPs (because they were getting higher than my comfort level) at WOT as a temporary solution until I get my Elite WG installed (it is sitting in my garage but since the cab is going up I am saving to do a valvetrain upgrade while I am in there), the first thing I tried was to lower the Desired EBP, but it didn't have much of an effect. Why? Adjusting vane position didn't do much either. The only real I could get that down was to cut fuel. Of course, these observations do back up Mike's point...try to leave the vanes alone and let the computer figure them out.
2) When I opened the vanes to 95% (when sometimes at stock it was at 50%) at "0" torque throughout the entire RPM range, why didn't that work as an exhaust brake at all?
