My E-fuel conversion.

jwlandry

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Nothing new here really. Ive looked at threads for the last few days on this topic and they are basically all the same except everyone usually adds their own twist to the matter.

Here's the main threads ive used so far
http://members.localnet.com/~boys3/
http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67827&highlight=
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1132720-the-tjbeggs-e-fuel-thread-almost-compelte.html
and of course
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19745

Since this is my work truck and it will never see anything crazy as far as power goes i opted it keep this stupid simple. I sourced as much of this as i could local that way if anything was to happen i could get a replacement fairly quick. I used the parts list off of the TJBEGGS write up to make mine. He has listed all the NAPA part numbers but since my napa store dont stock alot of this i went to my parker store and got most of everything I needed.

(1) -4 Male JIC x 1/8 Male NPT 4 FTX-S
(2) -4 Male JIC x Female JIC swivel 4 C6X-S
(1) -4 Male JIC x 1/8'' Female NPT 4 GTX-S
(1) 1/8'' Male NPT Hex Nipple 1/8 FF-S
(2) -6 Male JIC x 1/4'' Female NPT 6 GTX-S
(2) -4 Male JIC x 1/4'' Male NPT 90* elbow 4-4 CTX-S
(5) -4 Male JIC Pushloc fittings 30682-4-4B
(2) -4 Male JIC x 3/8'' NPT 4-6 FTX-S
(2) -6 Female JIC x -4 Male JIC reducer w/nut 6-4 TRTXN-S
8 foot of 1/4 diesel rated hose 7212-251BK
 

jwlandry

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20121217_152948.jpg


This is how the fittings will be orientated in the motor. Starting from top to bottom.
The top two will go to the left and right heads respectfully.

The middle three will go to a Y distribution block that i got of Summit racing.

the bottom outside two will go into the aeromotive regulator that i also got from summit and connect to the stock lines coming off the front of the heads.



Just so no one flames the set up. Between the heads and the Y there will be some stainless braided line that will withstand the heat of the turbo. I just have to get the Parker guy a measurement so he can crimp me on some fittings on the line.

Also i chose the -4 over the -6 that most systems use because the fitting going into the head is 1/8'' and I didnt see the need to use the -6 stuff. The truck will have some baby swamps in it and that will be it so im not worried about keeping up with pressure. It should be more then fine.
 
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jwlandry

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Tonight I got the fuel bowl and pump out and it was leaking pretty bad out the weep hole which was expected. Came out without a hitch. Tomorrow ill get some more pics and i have to make a run to the parts house and get me a 7/8 freeze plug to plug the factory pump hole before i go any further and then ill start installing all my fitting that i can until the Summit stuff shows up.
 

jwlandry

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Freeze plug installed
20121218_112123.jpg


New fittings on back of heads
20121219_182529.jpg


Bracket I made to mount my regulator
Screenshot_2012-12-19-18-38-02.png


Regulator on bracket where it goes
20121219_182537.jpg


I just wish the regulator had a gauge port on the front instead of the rear. I would have gotten more done today but UPS didn't show till late and I was tired of waiting. My filter bases and rest of my stuff should be here tomorrow. I'm ready to fire it up and see the difference it makes.
 

94TurboDiesel

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what is the benefit of doing an e-fuel conversion ive heard of people doing them but nothing really about the power gain or better fuel flow
 

jwlandry

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I'm doing mine bc the pump was leaking and not holding pressure. It definetly improves flow in a sense bc the electric pump can maintain 65 psi. Plus it cleans the valley up and allows you to run spin on filters that offer better filtration then the stock canister filter.
 

jwlandry

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I changed my mind on fittings. I decided to keep it all -6 JIC instead of the -4 as I originally planned. I did this mainly bc just staying with the -6 uses a few less fittings and in turn equals less leak points.

I'll include a parts list once the system is done just incase I change my mind again.

Here's the look as of tonight:
20121220_173940.jpg


I got the regualor mounted and hooked up except for the return and everything is plumped to the heads and Y except for the feed line.

I got my filter bases in today and started on my bracket to mount them and the pump on. Should be going in the next few days. Sucks only working on it a few hrs a day.
 

jwlandry

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I got the whole system finished but I have a little problem.

I can't get the thing to prime. I probably let the pump run 2-3 minutes and my pre filter is still not full. I just had the pump hooked strait to the battery to check for leaks. I have my filters hooked to the bottom line on the frame rail. I looked on the selector valve and the one I DID NOT cut says return so I got the right line...... I think. I just don't know why it hasn't primed. I'm stumped so any help is appreciated.
 

rusty1161

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I got the whole system finished but I have a little problem.

I can't get the thing to prime. I probably let the pump run 2-3 minutes and my pre filter is still not full. I just had the pump hooked strait to the battery to check for leaks. I have my filters hooked to the bottom line on the frame rail. I looked on the selector valve and the one I DID NOT cut says return so I got the right line...... I think. I just don't know why it hasn't primed. I'm stumped so any help is appreciated.

Any chance the pump is wired in reverse?

Rusty
 

Cat_rebel

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Rebecca Black took my seat
I got the whole system finished but I have a little problem.

I can't get the thing to prime. I probably let the pump run 2-3 minutes and my pre filter is still not full. I just had the pump hooked strait to the battery to check for leaks. I have my filters hooked to the bottom line on the frame rail. I looked on the selector valve and the one I DID NOT cut says return so I got the right line...... I think. I just don't know why it hasn't primed. I'm stumped so any help is appreciated.

If you didn't pre fill the filter there is going to be a big air pocket in there to pull through. I ran into the same issue with mine when I first installed my E-fuel. Spin off your filters & top em off with diesel then re-install & try again. Once I did that it filled the heads with fuel & I could watch the gauge build pressure in a matter of seconds.
 

Cr500

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Your problem may be part of the reason the oem stuff is junk to begin with.
The stock tank vent is tiny. Beyond that many times the vent in cap is clogged. But with a mechanical pump it will overcome the vent issue for the most part and you'd never know. On each tank just the suction side has 2 connections that also like to pull air under vacuum.
The plastic selector valve itself likes to also leak internally. Meaning it can try to pull from other tanks return.
Any of these issues will make your new pump not work right. Assuming you have connected everything right the next thing you should try is to just take fuel cap off tank, and back your pressure regulator all the way out. The less restriction you have the easier it will be to pump thru it.
 

jwlandry

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Your problem may be part of the reason the oem stuff is junk to begin with.
The stock tank vent is tiny. Beyond that many times the vent in cap is clogged. But with a mechanical pump it will overcome the vent issue for the most part and you'd never know. On each tank just the suction side has 2 connections that also like to pull air under vacuum.
The plastic selector valve itself likes to also leak internally. Meaning it can try to pull from other tanks return.
Any of these issues will make your new pump not work right. Assuming you have connected everything right the next thing you should try is to just take fuel cap off tank, and back your pressure regulator all the way out. The less restriction you have the easier it will be to pump thru it.

I took the caps off last night.

I have a spare brand new carter pump I may try on there. Im trying to eliminate all possibilities before I do that though.
 

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