Need a little help with diagnosing.

AllanB

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The last few days my truck has started acting up. This might be a little lengthy, due to me trying to explain what is going on. A few days ago I was going around 25/30mph, I put the pedal to the floor and it down shifted like normal. About 40/45mph it was like it hit neutral just for a split second, and then kind of in and out and started bucking real bad. I let off and wasn't real sure what was going on. Sometimes with these 2wd, they can break the tires loose, then catch traction and I guess it kinda screws with the TCM, and takes it a second to catch itself. Kind of what that felt like. It did it a couple more times over the next couple of days. Sometimes no problem though. Then I pulled 9k load today, it started this bucking at about 25mph, but I am not running hard on it, just pulling a load. Got to the house, unhooked it. Everything seemed normal. Tonight I am driving and it gets stuckin 3rd or 4th gear, I am taking off from a dead stop in whatever gear it was in. I stop, manually shifted to 1st, started going and it is still in 3rd or 4th. Then at probably 10mph or so, it goes into 1st. I keep going and manually shifted to drive. Then it doesn't want to get into the last gear. I was close to the house, so I pulled up to the house, shut it off and try to start it. It will not do anything. It was like I had put the truck in gear with it shut off, and then tried to start it. It would turnover at all. I moved the gear sift to 1st back to park. Tried again and nothing. Walked back inside, grabbed my SCT, pulled 3 codes off of it. After I pulled the codes, it cranks right up like normal. I did nothing but read the codes. Here are the codes. C1175 P0766 P2703. A little help sure would be much appriciated. Sorry for being so long, just trying to put all the info I can on here.
 

Spatel23

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Im no expert by any means, but Id guess clutches in the trans.

Im sure someone with more experience will chime in shortly
 

AllanB

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It more than likely is the trans. The only thing that made me think it might be electronic connected is that it wouldn't start after I shut it off. I tried it twice, making sure it was fully in park both times. Then 5 minutes later, it starts right up. But other than that, yes everything points to the trans. This trans has about 15k on it. Which suprises me that it is going out. I beat on the 5R in my 6.0 for a long time before it gave up the ghost, and I was running 37's on it. This is a 2wd that breaks the tires lose everytime it thinks of building a little torque. Thanks for the reply.
 

jdgleason

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I'll look up those codes later, but it almost seems like a solenoid is acting up. I think your clutches may have some issues too. Tires spinning and getting traction isn't good for the trans either though lol
 

AllanB

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I'll look up those codes later, but it almost seems like a solenoid is acting up. I think your clutches may have some issues too. Tires spinning and getting traction isn't good for the trans either though lol

Thanks JD. Yeah I was going to work on that traction problem in a few weeks. But I fear I might be working on a trans problem in a few days lol.
 

Powerstroked162

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I looked but can't find any of those codes in my book, Allan. Maybe J.D. can get it for ya.

I'd be willing to guess it's the solenoid pack as well. Similar issue happened on a 450 we have. Truck didn't ever recognize it was in park and it had sporadic shifting problems with gear hunting and stalling out. Dealer swapped some solenoids, fixed the range selector and it was back to normal
 

Motostroker

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My truck acted very similar, only mine cooked a converter. Would hang up in 4th while Im sitting there idling. ( would have to turn off and clear codes to get back going)
 

tensixniner

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Google the DTC and 6.4L
It's surprising what you can find.
Should at least give you a good idea of where to look.
 

Mike@MPD

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P0500/0503 is set by the PCM when the VSS signal from the ABS module is missing. If the vehicle has DTC P0500/P0503 in the PCM, and the vehicle has ABS DTCs, check ground 105 and the ABS fuse (mini fuse #11). C1175



If the vehicle has only DTC C1175 in the ABS module it is most likely caused by a wiring concern or a faulty sensor.
Inspect the vehicle wiring for damage beginning at the rear wheel speed sensor connector and ending at the ABS module. Damage may be at any point in the wiring.
Inspect for pinched looms, frayed terminal connections, loose pins, etc.
Pay special attention to the wiring along the frame (especially if the vehicle has been modified from a body builder), and near the fuel tank.
The speed sensor wiring begins at the rear axle and is routed along the frame rail on the left side of the vehicle. It then branches off at C140 (gas C133), which is located beneath the master cylinder. The wiring then goes to C455 at the ABS module.
The wiring should not be loose, especially near the rear wheel speed sensor. Ensure that the wiring is properly retained and routed to eliminate intermittent speed signals.
NOTE: USE A ZIP TIE TO SECURE THE HARNESS TO THE SENSOR SO THE PORTION OF THE HARNESS THAT IS COMING OFF OF THE BRAKE CABLE IS SUPPORTED.
Repair wiring as necessary.
If no concerns are found in the wiring, replace the sensor.
C1175 AND C1236



If the vehicle has DTC C1236 AND C1175 in the ABS module, check the vehicle wiring per the C1175 procedure. If there is a hard or intermittent wiring fault, the current may at times be high or low causing a C1175. A wiring concern may also cause noise in the circuit that can be interpreted by the module as an erratic speed signal, which will set a the C1236.
If no wiring issue is found, follow the C1236 procedure. C1236


If the vehicle has DTC C1236 in the ABS module, a wiring concern may exist that is severe enough to interrupt the signal, but not severe enough to totally open/short the circuit. Inspect the sensor connector on the 14405 harness for signs of water trapped in the strain relief elbow, corrosion, or connector broken/cracked. Install a new pigtail if necessary (See Pigtail Installation Procedure).
Ensure that the harness is properly retained and routed to eliminate intermittent speed signals.
Add dielectric grease to the connector.
If only DTC C1236 exists, and it occurs only under acceleration or towing, check for loose carrier bolts.
If no wiring concerns are present check the tone ring through the wheel speed sensor bore for damage, and for proper gap between the tone ring and ring gear.
Use a feeler gage to confirm gap between tone ring and ring gear is no larger than 0.010". Check the gap at multiple locations around the tone ring.
If gap is larger than 0.010", remove the axle cover and use suitable punch/driver to carefully "tap" tone ring back against ring gear. Recheck with feeler gage.
Examine each tooth of the tone wheel for damage. Even a small nick can cause a C1236 (Figure 1).


Figure 1 - Article 06-7-6
If no tone wheel issues are found, replace the wheel speed sensor.
Pigtail Installation


Disconnect the battery.
Disconnect the damaged connector from the axle.
Cut wiring near the rear wheel sensor takeout from 14405 harness.
Splice in pigtail (pigtail includes heat shrink).
Cover heat shrink with tubing.
Route the two (2) retainers of the pigtail to park brake cable.
NOTE: USE A ZIP TIE TO SECURE THE HARNESS TO THE SENSOR SO THE PORTION OF THE HARNESS THAT IS COMING OFF OF THE BRAKE CABLE IS SUPPORTED.
Plug in connector to rear wheel sensor.
Check for functionality.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
5C3Z-14S411-AA Jumper (Pigtail)
-4B409- Tone Ring (Order Per Axle Tag Number)
XG-3-A Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound
6L3Z-9E731-A Sensor Assy
 

Mike@MPD

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P0766 - shift solenoid D performance or stuck
P2703 - transmission friction element D apply time range, performance

I suspect this may have happened due to wheel spin. After the code appeared the truck would not shift pass 4th? gear (2500rpms @55mph) until I turned the key off and let it set for awhile. The code cleared later and did not return on another 3/4 run in 4wd.

The 45mph TC lock-up versus the 4-5-OD shift points seems to be uncoordinated on the higher tunes..... or my solenoid "D" is flaking out. Can this solenoid be changed without dropping the transmission or is this a shop repair?
 

AllanB

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Yeah, that helps a lot. It is 8:20pm and I have just gotten around to checking this post. I will have a look Sunday and see what I find. Thanks for both post. Now I have a place to start looking for trouble. great post btw.
 

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