Need help figuring this one out.

Big Bore

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Oil in fuel filter is a good indication o-rings are bad. Also, the blue cps fad has passed. Tuners have discovered bad things from those. The International stock replacement is the best one.
 

Tom S

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I think this is the PCM calibration codes for the 7.3 Powerstroke
 

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  • POWER STROKE PCM CALIBRATION INFORMATION[1].pdf
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HaysKSFirefighter

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Oil in fuel filter is a good indication o-rings are bad. Also, the blue cps fad has passed. Tuners have discovered bad things from those. The International stock replacement is the best one.

I've got a new fuel filter ordered, it will get put on on friday, I'll check for oil then. I'm going to get a video of a cold start hooked up to the scanner and then a hot start so you guys can see the difference a little better.

Good to know about the cps, I'll just get the regular one from international then.
 

HaysKSFirefighter

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Alright I am bumping this one to the top, we put a new pcm in it about two weeks ago, I've gone maybe 1500 miles with no problems and then again today it cut out like I turned the key off. I tried to start it and got nothin, checked fuel, everything was fine, went to try it one last time and it fired right up. Keep in mind it was 95 out and sat for maybe 10min so it didn't have time to really cool off.

Anyway, I called chris and we got it loaded on a trailer and off to his house just in case, went to take it off the trailer and it fired up like nothing had ever happened. I'm at a loss, tomorrow we are going to clean up the top of the motor and probably pull the wiring harness to check for bare wires that might be grounding out.

Does anyone have any ideas or things we should check for while we are under there?
 

Big Bore

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Can't remember everything that was done while troubleshooting, but have you checked the harness connector under the valve cover? That one is famous for doing what you have going on. Maybe just re list all the parts you've replaced or eliminated as the problem.
 

HaysKSFirefighter

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We have not checked uvch or the actual engine harness itself. It has a new pcm, new icp/icp pigtail, new ipr core and solenoid, all the pressures and everything are in spec. It doesn't have a chip in it right now, waiting on a reburn. We should be getting all my new parts (sticks, turbo housing, tranny parts, etc) coming in the next few days so the whole top of the motor will be coming apart.

I think tomorrow we will just go over the harness with a fine toothed comb and check for any frayed/bare wires, loose connections, anything we can find...it's gotta be a wiring/electrical gremlin
 

Dieselboy.

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Be careful driving with that if he decides too. When I swapped in the auto from an 01 I used his pcm cause mine was a manual trans and the 01 will not supply line pressure in the trans
 

vanderchevy18

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Byron that pcm didn't come from a manual trans truck did it? You made sure didn't you? I forgot to have you ask.


I don't think its uvch because it just died. No sputtering or rough idle.
 

Big Bore

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We have not checked uvch or the actual engine harness itself. It has a new pcm, new icp/icp pigtail, new ipr core and solenoid, all the pressures and everything are in spec. It doesn't have a chip in it right now, waiting on a reburn. We should be getting all my new parts (sticks, turbo housing, tranny parts, etc) coming in the next few days so the whole top of the motor will be coming apart.

I think tomorrow we will just go over the harness with a fine toothed comb and check for any frayed/bare wires, loose connections, anything we can find...it's gotta be a wiring/electrical gremlin


I don't see CPS in that list.
 

HaysKSFirefighter

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It was an auto tranny pcm. Same pcm as my original, I wont have to worry about line pressure or anything once I get my new chip since it has vdh5 base tunes in it.

I also replaced the cps. No change. If it were the cps, shouldn't it take a while to fire back up? All the times it has died I've been able to restart in a few minutes. Anyone I've known with a cps issue couldn't restart for 20+ minutes.
 

HaysKSFirefighter

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Ok we got the harness all out, or I did rather, chris was playing with a new turbo LOL
things we found, some wires were kinked pretty bad, but no real bare wires. The ipr plug however melted where the wires go in, I don't know if that might have screwed up my ipr and maybe cut the truck off like I shut the key off.

Anyway, I used another harness he had lying around that was in better shape and put on some plugs that were needed. So now I have a good harness that will go on tomorrow.
2011-06-16_19-23-42_616.jpg


Also we pulled my fuel filter and it was pretty dark leading me to believe that I did indeed have oil getting to it. Here is a side by side with a new one. Both are wix filters.
2011-06-16_19-28-00_538.jpg
 

Bald-N-Blue

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The aforementioned plug.
photobucket-17482-1308275744447.jpg

I've seen that exact thing happen on my truck, on the same connector even. I've reworked several harness's a while back to try to figure it out, and as far as I can tell it's a result of oil and/or fuel soaking into the harness and connectors. Add some heat and time, and the rubber and plastic components basically turn to jelly, and I haven't seen a harness yet that hasn't been swimming in oil or fuel in at least a few places. I also found damage to the insulation on most of the wires at my driver side UVC connector, on the outside harness connector. Turns out I had a leak in a fitting on my reg return fuel system hose, directly over the UVC connector. I've got some pictures of it somewhere, I'll post them up when I can figure out where I saved them. The insulation on the injector signal wiring just peeled off with my fingers.

Even where the plastic loom looks clean and dry, once I tore the whole harness apart, I found about 90% of the entire wiring bundle totally soaked in engine oil (turns out I also had a "small leak" on a HPO hose for a while :cursing:).

At the very least, pull the loom off the wiring bundle around around the connectors near the IPR and the fuel filter bowl. If you find a pool of oil in there, pull it all apart until you find dry wiring. Clean any oil or fuel off the harness with denatured alcohol or electrical contact cleaner, and take a real careful look at the insulation on the wiring and the seals around the connectors. Then you can decide what to do with the harness based on it's condition, and how crazy you feel like getting with repairing it.

I've thought about writing up an article about inspecting and repairing these things, if you guys think it would be helpful I can probably get something together in a few days. It's not too terribly difficult to do, but there are a few pitfalls to watch for due to the high voltage and frequency of the injector driver system, and the high current of the glow plug circuits.

Anyway, I hope this was helpful, let me know if you have any questions. I promised to contribute more in here, instead of lurking around in the shadows like I did at PSN :lookaround:.


:D
 
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Big Bore

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I've thought about writing up an article about inspecting and repairing these things, if you guys think it would be helpful I can probably get something together in a few days. It's not too terribly difficult to do, but there are a few pitfalls to watch for due to the high voltage and frequency of the injector driver system, and the high current of the glow plug circuits.

I'd be interested.
 

HaysKSFirefighter

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I've seen that exact thing happen on my truck, on the same connector even. I've reworked several harness's a while back to try to figure it out, and as far as I can tell it's a result of oil and/or fuel soaking into the harness and connectors. Add some heat and time, and the rubber and plastic components basically turn to jelly, and I haven't seen a harness yet that hasn't been swimming in oil or fuel in at least a few places. I also found damage to the insulation on most of the wires at my driver side UVC connector, on the outside harness connector. Turns out I had a leak in a fitting on my reg return fuel system hose, directly over the UVC connector. I've got some pictures of it somewhere, I'll post them up when I can figure out where I saved them. The insulation on the injector signal wiring just peeled off with my fingers.

Even where the plastic loom looks clean and dry, once I tore the whole harness apart, I found about 90% of the entire wiring bundle totally soaked in engine oil (turns out I also had a "small leak" on a HPO hose for a while :cursing:).

At the very least, pull the loom off the wiring bundle around around the connectors near the IPR and the fuel filter bowl. If you find a pool of oil in there, pull it all apart until you find dry wiring. Clean any oil or fuel off the harness with denatured alcohol or electrical contact cleaner, and take a real careful look at the insulation on the wiring and the seals around the connectors. Then you can decide what to do with the harness based on it's condition, and how crazy you feel like getting with repairing it.

I've thought about writing up an article about inspecting and repairing these things, if you guys think it would be helpful I can probably get something together in a few days. It's not too terribly difficult to do, but there are a few pitfalls to watch for due to the high voltage and frequency of the injector driver system, and the high current of the glow plug circuits.

Anyway, I hope this was helpful, let me know if you have any questions. I promised to contribute more in here, instead of lurking around in the shadows like I did at PSN :lookaround:.


:D

Write ups are always good to have! What kind of issues were you having when you decided to pull the harness?
 

Tom S

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I've seen that exact thing happen on my truck, on the same connector even. I've reworked several harness's a while back to try to figure it out, and as far as I can tell it's a result of oil and/or fuel soaking into the harness and connectors. Add some heat and time, and the rubber and plastic components basically turn to jelly, and I haven't seen a harness yet that hasn't been swimming in oil or fuel in at least a few places. I also found damage to the insulation on most of the wires at my driver side UVC connector, on the outside harness connector. Turns out I had a leak in a fitting on my reg return fuel system hose, directly over the UVC connector. I've got some pictures of it somewhere, I'll post them up when I can figure out where I saved them. The insulation on the injector signal wiring just peeled off with my fingers.

Even where the plastic loom looks clean and dry, once I tore the whole harness apart, I found about 90% of the entire wiring bundle totally soaked in engine oil (turns out I also had a "small leak" on a HPO hose for a while :cursing:).

At the very least, pull the loom off the wiring bundle around around the connectors near the IPR and the fuel filter bowl. If you find a pool of oil in there, pull it all apart until you find dry wiring. Clean any oil or fuel off the harness with denatured alcohol or electrical contact cleaner, and take a real careful look at the insulation on the wiring and the seals around the connectors. Then you can decide what to do with the harness based on it's condition, and how crazy you feel like getting with repairing it.

I've thought about writing up an article about inspecting and repairing these things, if you guys think it would be helpful I can probably get something together in a few days. It's not too terribly difficult to do, but there are a few pitfalls to watch for due to the high voltage and frequency of the injector driver system, and the high current of the glow plug circuits.

Anyway, I hope this was helpful, let me know if you have any questions. I promised to contribute more in here, instead of lurking around in the shadows like I did at PSN :lookaround:.


:D

I am looking forward to you article and also to your active contribution.
 

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