Need some advise on Smog in california.

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Hears the run on CA smog:

98-07 OBD Check - No codes and all supported monitors must be run. This is the hardest part since some 7.3s hate life and won't run the comprehensive monitor. The smog machine does not check VIN number, what file is flashed in the truck, if it's even the right year, etc. It's a code reader that's verifying monitors.

Snap test - most smog techs do this wrong. It's a gradual application of the throttle over 3 seconds, then a 3 second wait to look for visible smoke. My 6.0 with 190/75s will pass this on a stock file.

Visual - This is were it comes down to the smog techs knowledge of diesels. Most of them hate diesel smogs, mostly because the state gives them some serious BS for guidelines on what is stock. It pretty much comes down to: "is it bright blue? If yes, fail for visual" Technically a Regulated Return is not required to have an EO number since it just new plumbing for the fuel system, but most smog techs don't go by this if they notice it.

Your T4 kit will come down to the techs knowledge of what stock is supposed to be.
 
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I have friends that have their trucks and RV's registered to an LLC in Montana. Guy has a company that sets it up and charges a small fee to maintain it. No smog issues.

This is why I don't have an OBS.
 

IdahoF350

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I just smogged my Early-1999 yesterday. The tech is looking for it to appear stock. In that case, he's looking for a stock air intake or one with a CARB EO number. On an E99 the catalytic converter has to be there, they usually don't care about pipe size, but the welds shouldn't look fresh, mine were but he let it slide because everything was there. If you have any kind of display/switch/gauge that isn't easily explained with "I use that for towing" hide or remove it. The guy I used knew the turbo should be a Garrett. He also knew to look for the stock fuel bowl.

Your desire to convert it ton "Late 99" is good on the surface, but the catalyst is your downfall, removing it to go L99 will mean a trip to the state referee, an even more thorough inspection and more potential headache for you.
 

Moto9673

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I just smogged my Early-1999 yesterday. The tech is looking for it to appear stock. In that case, he's looking for a stock air intake or one with a CARB EO number. On an E99 the catalytic converter has to be there, they usually don't care about pipe size, but the welds shouldn't look fresh, mine were but he let it slide because everything was there. If you have any kind of display/switch/gauge that isn't easily explained with "I use that for towing" hide or remove it. The guy I used knew the turbo should be a Garrett. He also knew to look for the stock fuel bowl.

Your desire to convert it ton "Late 99" is good on the surface, but the catalyst is your downfall, removing it to go L99 will mean a trip to the state referee, an even more thorough inspection and more potential headache for you.

OK this helps a lot. Did they sweat you on the 6637? I have a local buddy that is going to swap my setup for his L99 with a KC66 so i think it will be OK. I might acid wash the turbo hosing so it looks less fresh and shinny. On you Cat dis you just stick your 4'' though the cat and re weld it. Because this is what i have on mine have never had an issue with it in AZ but they are way less strict. I really love my truck one cause its paid for and two because i can actually work on it. Might just have to bite the bullet and buy a 6.7. But $700 PER MONTH will get old quick.
 

Justin@DP-Tuner

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OK this helps a lot. Did they sweat you on the 6637? I have a local buddy that is going to swap my setup for his L99 with a KC66 so i think it will be OK. I might acid wash the turbo hosing so it looks less fresh and shinny. On you Cat dis you just stick your 4'' though the cat and re weld it. Because this is what i have on mine have never had an issue with it in AZ but they are way less strict. I really love my truck one cause its paid for and two because i can actually work on it. Might just have to bite the bullet and buy a 6.7. But $700 PER MONTH will get old quick.

A couple years ago when I was running the 6637, they picked on me for it. They want a CARB EO number for anything that is not stock. Since I switched to S&B (which does have a CARB EO number), I no longer have that issue.
 

tugger007

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IdahoF350

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OK this helps a lot. Did they sweat you on the 6637? I have a local buddy that is going to swap my setup for his L99 with a KC66 so i think it will be OK. I might acid wash the turbo hosing so it looks less fresh and shinny. On you Cat dis you just stick your 4'' though the cat and re weld it. Because this is what i have on mine have never had an issue with it in AZ but they are way less strict. I really love my truck one cause its paid for and two because i can actually work on it. Might just have to bite the bullet and buy a 6.7. But $700 PER MONTH will get old quick.

Ok, sorry I don't get on here regularly enough. I tossed the stock box and intake piping on, didn't even attach the box, just set it there, lol. I have a 4" downpipe, then a 4" flex, a 4"x51" "muffler location" pipe built to the OAL of the muffler I plan to install this fall, then it turns up into my stack kit. The cat has 4" adapters on it to put it in place of the flex pipe for smog test only. I didn't even bother to open it up to 4", just adapted the 3.5" up to 4" since it only gets used a couple hours every other year.

Don't buy a 6.7, gust keep the cat around. If it is gutted, that may become an issue some day, but for now, they don't do a function test (checking inlet vs outlet temp). If you want to run a bigger turbo, shiny is the enemy. It really needs to say Garrett on the cover. Since E99s are not that common, the tech won't know the difference unless he's a former Ford diesel tech or he's owned an E99 personally.

Now, as for "chips" the tech may or may not look at your computer. Also, they may or may not have a clue what they are looking at. Personally, I run SCT, I do all my own tuning, and I prefer the chip and the ability to switch tunes on the fly. But I also have an old XCal2 that I can load files on and install in the truck. The beauty of this is I can run a tune with no chip installed, visually it looks stock. When I do injectors and HPOP this is how I plan to slide through smog, simply running it on a flashed program instead of one burned to the chip.

Study their rules, learn what they test and what they look for, build the truck to work within those rules, and use their own system against them. As long as you aren't reported or stopped for rolling coal on the road, you'll never have an issue driving a modified 7.3 in California.
 
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DAQ80

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Yea all. I'm new on here. I have 2002 super duty that I have to get smogged this year.
I smogged it when I bought it but I think the guy might have overlooked some things and I'm worried about it not playing out the same this time.
I have a DP tuner F5 switch in the dash, and FRX, 6637, 38R, 4 inch pipe, as well as a FASS fuel pump.

Last time the guy said the air filter was good to go and a Carb sticker wasn't required. He said he would cut some slack and didn't know what the F5 was...that was it.

Anyone have any problems with the 6637? I think I'll just put the F5 switch behind the dash and get a blank for the hole.
Any other advice or ideas? I think it's BS we even have go through this on these older Super Duty's.


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uncool

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I kept my stock air box lid for smog purposes. 5 minutes to swap it out and no hassles.

If you don't have yours, I would be willing to lend mine to you.

Or the other option is buy a CARB approved air intake.
 

DAQ80

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Thanks for the offer uncool. I might as well pick one up to have. Hopefully I can get one on Craigslist for cheaper than they want on eBay!


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IdahoF350

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Yea all. I'm new on here. I have 2002 super duty that I have to get smogged this year.
I smogged it when I bought it but I think the guy might have overlooked some things and I'm worried about it not playing out the same this time.
I have a DP tuner F5 switch in the dash, and FRX, 6637, 38R, 4 inch pipe, as well as a FASS fuel pump.

Last time the guy said the air filter was good to go and a Carb sticker wasn't required. He said he would cut some slack and didn't know what the F5 was...that was it.

Anyone have any problems with the 6637? I think I'll just put the F5 switch behind the dash and get a blank for the hole.
Any other advice or ideas? I think it's BS we even have go through this on these older Super Duty's.


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So, the only real "red flags" are the chip and the 6637. If you're running stock injectors, I would pull the chip before the inspection, and hide the selector switch if it has any markings. And as stated repeatedly in this thread, a stock appearing air box, or an air intake with a C.A.R.B. EO number are going to make your life simple.

The 38R and Fass pump shouldn't cause any issues, unless you've ******d the stock fuel bowl, then you may have a problem. If they are shiny and look fancy, the best advice I can give you is spray cooking spray on the shiny/colorful bits, then go drive down a dirt road and get them good and dirty. Nice thing about cooking spray is it washes off with minimal effort.

The 4" pipe is a non-issue, your truck is non-catalyst, so anything goes from the turbo back.

The only way you avoid smog on a 7.3 is GVW rating, basically 450s and 550s in private ownership are exempt.
 

Justin@DP-Tuner

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Yea all. I'm new on here. I have 2002 super duty that I have to get smogged this year.
I smogged it when I bought it but I think the guy might have overlooked some things and I'm worried about it not playing out the same this time.
I have a DP tuner F5 switch in the dash, and FRX, 6637, 38R, 4 inch pipe, as well as a FASS fuel pump.

Last time the guy said the air filter was good to go and a Carb sticker wasn't required. He said he would cut some slack and didn't know what the F5 was...that was it.

Anyone have any problems with the 6637? I think I'll just put the F5 switch behind the dash and get a blank for the hole.
Any other advice or ideas? I think it's BS we even have go through this on these older Super Duty's.


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When I ran the 6637 temporarily a few years ago, the smog guy gave me flack about it as well. He could have not passed me for it, but he did let me slide. I do not think that would be the case now.

I currently use the S&B intake and am much happier with it anyway. It also comes with a CARB sticker, so no smog issues.

The F5 is not CARB exempt. You can either remove it for smog or put the switch where it is not visible.

I have never been given any trouble for my 38R or FRx, so you should be fine there.
 
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DAQ80

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When I ran the 6637 temporarily a few years ago, the smog guy gave me flack about it as well. He could have not passed me for it, but he did let me slide. I do not think that would be the case now.

I currently use the S&B intake and am much happier with it anyway. It also comes with a CARB sticker, so no smog issues.

The F5 is not CARB exempt. You can either remove it for smog or put the switch where it is not visible.

I have never been given any trouble for my 38R or FRx, so you should be fine there.



Thanks, I'm gonna look into that S&B.


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Justin@DP-Tuner

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Thanks, I'm gonna look into that S&B.


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It is a good kit. You will like it. If you are in a really dusty environment, I recommend getting the dry (paper) filter. Otherwise the oiled (cotton) filter is good.
 

vr6nutt

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Just to add to this...undo any CCV mod and put it back to stock. Set your chip to stock tune and remove it. They do plug in now. My engine actually shut off while plugged in during one of their tests...I played dumb and just restarted it. I use the RR FRX and it hides well under the decorative cover - can't hide a giant regulator. All my parts are black or aluminum - no shiny bits. Even covered up the orange writing on the 38R intake tube and turned the intercooler boots so the lettering is facing inside. Stock-appearing is key.
 

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