New Harley Build Advice Needed

[Roccafellas]

Get 2 qts of vc9. Fill the truck with water and the vc9. Run it for an hour or so. Then pull the petcock from the radiator, remove the little gose from the degas to the radiator, drop the starter, and pull the block plug on the passenger side. Its an 8mm Allen. Run fresh water thru it for half an hor or so, shut the hose off and let it drain everything out. Put the block plug back in, then pull the drivers side block plug, and run the hose thru it for another half hour or so. Then let it all drain again. Then pull the passenger block plug and let everything drain out. Reassemble everything, and fill with 4 gallons of coolant before you start with water. Use distilled water on the final fill once you get to that point, if youre using coolant that needs cut

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Awesome info, thanks bud, guess it’s definitely worth the PITA to get the starter out, labours cheap, engines aren’t lol.


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[Roccafellas]

Got it to fire, and dies instantly, now I can’t get fuel into the fuel bowl, or the rear banjo on fuel cooler,
I hear the HFCM is it possible the motor runs but it doesn’t suck? Or is the pump in the tank shot?

Also is it odd that my new H&S tuner runs the HFCM constantly instead of the regular 30 second intervals? Is it a feature they have??


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[sootie]

Just because the motors running doesn't mean it's pumping. There is fuel in the tank, correct?

Also, there is no tank mounted pump to my knowledge.

Tuner will have nothing to do with the pump run time. The pump isn't making pressure so likely not triggering the same controls as before.

 

[Roccafellas]

Just because the motors running doesn't mean it's pumping. There is fuel in the tank, correct?

Also, there is no tank mounted pump to my knowledge.

Tuner will have nothing to do with the pump run time. The pump isn't making pressure so likely not triggering the same controls as before.

So the fuel was at just under 1/4 tank, at that point it was putting fuel out to the fuel cooler rear banjo bolt, then I realized it was getting low, filled a 25L fuel can and put it to half tank, now all of a sudden it will not put fuel to the rear banjo bolt, and with fuel filter out of fuel bowl There is no fuel entering.

And well I thought maybe it was the tuner, because I took his H&S off of my other truck I have last night, and that truck when Key On would run the pump constantly,

And in my harley last night BEFORE i put the H&S on there, it would only run the pump for 30 seconds, the minute i put the H&S into the harley truck the pump consistently runs like the red truck, which is why it seems coincidentally the tuner.. but if you say its not then its not lol..

And ok well I figured maybe something wrong inside the tank or the lpfp died, even tho i can hear it, I just want it to run! I am going to try and swap lpfp tomorrow and see if that helps. Or maybe theres something blocking the pickup in the tank?

Before the rebuild, I had no issues with the harley truck running with the stock motor before i swapped to my built one in it, started everytime and ran goodnand it has the same lpfp as before.

Also before I filled it with the 25L of fuel, I opened the water seperator and nothing came out and then fuel finally came out after a few seconds

 

[Roccafellas]

So it started!!!!!!
Running,
Stumbling but running
And can’t throttle up,
Hopefully just air.

Changed the lpfp
So I assume the old one was just dying out I guess.

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[Roccafellas]

After constant running and ripping apart the lpfp again,
It still has no throttle when in gear
I can get rail pressure to 10k when in park, but even hard to get throttle in park, full throttle itll slowly creep up to about only 2800 rpm
And after sitting for a bit when started again runs like an old Cat farm tractor..
I took my time with the hpfp harness and ziptied it, and torqued the tubes right, wondering what this could be now.
Seems like a fuel issue for sure. Wonder if its in the tank or if its a pump or just another bad lpfp..

Might have to send it to the dealer as I pull no codes. On my H&S and Im working in my driveway.
When it runs and idles nice, it sounds awesome

Also a pretty decent vibration in the truck,
But never took off the flywheel adapter and torqued the balancer and flywheel correctly.. hoping its just from a rough idle.

Any ideas!!


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[sootie]

Do you have forscan? Need to check the fuel related pids. Injector balance, rail pressure commanded vs actual, etc. Vibration could just be a cyl not firing or something.

 

[Roccafellas]

Do you have forscan? Need to check the fuel related pids. Injector balance, rail pressure commanded vs actual, etc. Vibration could just be a cyl not firing or something.

No I don’t i’m working in my driveway lol, I have my H&S and thats it, I think i’ll send it to the dealer, wish I had someone up here in Sudbury
Thanks Sootie!


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[sootie]

No I don’t i’m working in my driveway lol, I have my H&S and thats it, I think i’ll send it to the dealer, wish I had someone up here in Sudbury
Thanks Sootie!


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Dude. get your laptop out and download forscan. Forget the dealer. They will blame the tune haha

 

[Roccafellas]

Dude. get your laptop out and download forscan. Forget the dealer. They will blame the tune haha

I don’t have a laptop it’s on the way to the dealer now I can’t afford any more hiccoughs I’m supposed to start a job on Monday I have to get a laptop though I only have an apple


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[Roccafellas]

okay so after a trip to the dealer they pulled p2291 icp too low, they said they did a test of low pressure and it was fine, that they ohmd the vcv and pcv and it was 3.5 ohms each one. they ruled it to a bad pump
which i don’t believe as the engine was running completely fine before i put it in another truck, and also the pumps a motor craft new pump only 35,000km ago 2 years. i towed it back home because i called BS on they’re diagnosis, and it ran for me just no throttle,
i called a bunch of shops and spent about 4 hours online

i’ve come to it’s either the harness under the pump cover, that either i didn’t click in all the way, (which i know i did because i put a zip tie around it) and or the FRP sensor or that side harness under valve cover

anyone have any experience with this

if i can get the truck running it will idle, stumble, but idle, i had it idling for an hour or so the other day, so how can a pump be bad??? it will fire right up too no long crank etc,,

after the dealer i tried to start it today, and no surprise now it won’t start. just cranks..

or the last one..a bad pump.. which i highly doubt,

only other things are the fact i put dieelectric grease on every connector, and might of spun the engine backwards, when it was out, to make sure all the mains i put it didn’t cause a tight crank,
could spinning the engine backwards ruined the pump? by hand?

also does anyone still think it could be a restriction in the tank.. I know it’s long but any help is appreciated..


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[6.0 Tech]

okay so after a trip to the dealer they pulled p2291 icp too low, they said they did a test of low pressure and it was fine, that they ohmd the vcv and pcv and it was 3.5 ohms each one. they ruled it to a bad pump
which i don’t believe as the engine was running completely fine before i put it in another truck, and also the pumps a motor craft new pump only 35,000km ago 2 years. i towed it back home because i called BS on they’re diagnosis, and it ran for me just no throttle,
i called a bunch of shops and spent about 4 hours online

i’ve come to it’s either the harness under the pump cover, that either i didn’t click in all the way, (which i know i did because i put a zip tie around it) and or the FRP sensor or that side harness under valve cover

anyone have any experience with this

if i can get the truck running it will idle, stumble, but idle, i had it idling for an hour or so the other day, so how can a pump be bad??? it will fire right up too no long crank etc,,

after the dealer i tried to start it today, and no surprise now it won’t start. just cranks..

or the last one..a bad pump.. which i highly doubt,

only other things are the fact i put dieelectric grease on every connector, and might of spun the engine backwards, when it was out, to make sure all the mains i put it didn’t cause a tight crank,
could spinning the engine backwards ruined the pump? by hand?

also does anyone still think it could be a restriction in the tank.. I know it’s long but any help is appreciated..


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Ctc deezul had one similar to this fairly recently, now that I think about it. Try swapping the accelerator pedal with your other truck, and see what happens, for ****s and grins to rule it out anyways

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[Roccafellas]

Ctc deezul had one similar to this fairly recently, now that I think about it. Try swapping the accelerator pedal with your other truck, and see what happens, for ****s and grins to rule it out anyways

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Even tho it worked perfectly fine before? Just wondering, I will try.


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[6.0 Tech]

Yeah, like I said, just for ****s and grins, who knows if it'll do anything, but it ought to rule it out.

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[Roccafellas]

Yeah, like I said, just for ****s and grins, who knows if it'll do anything, but it ought to rule it out.

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Okay thank you Sir.


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[Roccafellas]

So Pedal change did nothing,
I couldnt even get past 20psi FRP
So I took the old hpfp out
Getting good at these things
Had it out in an hour lol

Hopefully this one works, when I took the old one off, I spun the gear and it spun freely like no compression whatsoever
The one from my other truck thats known good, has compression, like its not hard, but not easy like the other one.. maybe the old one was fubard. Fingers crossed..


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[Roccafellas]

Soooo. I changed the HPFP, and now I have throttle! Finally! But it still dies, and have 2291 still.. SO, reached out to some vet’s many I might say, and Sootie, had recommended I unplug the FRP sensor, and try and run it..

Well guess what it runs! Still dies, but runs a lot longer than with it plugged in,
With it plugged in it will run 1 second and dies
And with it unplugged it runs for a good 5-10 seconds.. and dies..

Is that a default that it dies instantly?
Or is it still full of air?
I’m taking the other frp sensor off the other truck tomorrow to see if it finally fixes it.
Lord knows what the heck is going on..
Special thanks to these guys
[mention]White_monster [/mention]
[mention]6.0 Tech [/mention]
[mention]sootie [/mention]
[mention]CTC DEEZUL [/mention]

Thanks for all the help, I know i’ve been a huge pain,
Up here in Sudbury this small town there is NO reputable diesel guys, without your guy’s help I probably would of tore apart the whole thing again.
An honest thank you.


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[FourEyed]

I recently had similar crank no start issues with mine after a full rebuild. It ended up being the Rail pressure sensor on the passenger side. It's one of the only sensors I did not replace.

I was able to look in Forscan and it was reading 3k psi with key on engine off. it's supposed to command 5k at startup, and when mine was cranking I was "seeing" 8k. from what I read, the sensor was giving a false reading causing the pump to bleed pressure off, and not quite giving enough pressure to get the truck to fire. For the $50 sensor, it might make sense to try and change it. Or try to read the pressures with forscan. Even if you don't have forscan the H&S will read frp on the display. Take a look and see what it's doing.

Yours sounds like it could be a similar issue. For the $50 OBD cable and free software, forscan is a no brainer, and could have saved a trip to the dealer.

 

[Roccafellas]

I recently had similar crank no start issues with mine after a full rebuild. It ended up being the Rail pressure sensor on the passenger side. It's one of the only sensors I did not replace.

I was able to look in Forscan and it was reading 3k psi with key on engine off. it's supposed to command 5k at startup, and when mine was cranking I was "seeing" 8k. from what I read, the sensor was giving a false reading causing the pump to bleed pressure off, and not quite giving enough pressure to get the truck to fire. For the $50 sensor, it might make sense to try and change it. Or try to read the pressures with forscan. Even if you don't have forscan the H&S will read frp on the display. Take a look and see what it's doing.

Yours sounds like it could be a similar issue. For the $50 OBD cable and free software, forscan is a no brainer, and could have saved a trip to the dealer.

I replaced my FRP sensor this morning, after [mention]sootie [/mention] recommended I try and start it without it, so far it fires up and runs! Just need to bleed the air because it keep dying.
I also changed that side wiring harness as per [mention]6.0 Tech [/mention] saying hes had issues with the harness’s going bad. So far so good!
Thanks tho Foureyed


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[Roccafellas]

AND SHE RUNS!!!!

Some clips from the video the gf took.

Thank you to all of ya who helped! It’s been a long few months, full engine rebuild removal and install and lift kit install all in my driveway! Lol.


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