oil in coolant and coolant leak

DoubleL · May 2, 2015

Boy I really need help! Been driving my race truck around trying to make sure its ready for race season. Once I really started flogging it, with boosted launches and holding it out for 1/4 mile is when troubles start;
It sprayed coolant out the degas bottle, and then later on when looking in degas bottle I notice oil film on top of antifreeze. I hope oil cooler but I just put this motor in this winter and changed oil cooler o-rings at that time. This morning I noticed a small oil leak behind fluid damper pulley and was lucky enough to find a couple bolts loose on that ?crank cover?. Tightened those and oil leak went away and hoped that was problem so went for another test drive.
On this last test drive, once I got hood open I see it sprayed out antifreeze again and blew dipstick out and oiled down that area!!

What should I look at first? I did that headgasket leak test where you see if the blue liquid changes color and it passed. Truck runs good, and I've been driving it around quite a bit, but this last couple days were the first hard tests up to around 50psi boost. So my opinion is it only blows antifreeze out over 40+psi boost pressures.

Any ideas as other than tearing into a compression test I'm not sure what else to do.

Magnum PD · May 2, 2015

O-ringed heads?

DoubleL · May 2, 2015

No, cometic

Magnum PD · May 2, 2015

H-11 studs? Block fill? Good head surfaces? Did you do a hot retorque of the studs?

DoubleL · May 2, 2015

I've got H-11, hard blok, and previous owner had bottom end built and lasted something like 10000 miles even with compound turbo setup. I see your probably thinking headgasket, but would that cause antifreeze puke with oil in there, and oil out my dipstick?

Magnum PD · May 2, 2015

Thinking when engine is hot and if there was a small leak and only does it under high boost, maybe that is pushing coolant out but not sure on oil out dipstick.
What was done on the Pistons?

DoubleL · May 2, 2015

Machined bowls to lower compression couple points, and valve reliefs cut in is all. Wipe Out Rods, beehive springs.

So maybe I better also do compression test tomorrow as maybe excessive blowby is oil leak? and headgasket is coolant leak? Just great, I haven't even started race season, and done so much work to this thing this winter...:fustrate:

Magnum PD · May 2, 2015

Again, did you do a hot retorque? I did on mine. Got about another turn on tighting them.

DoubleL · May 2, 2015

No I didn't. I think when I had valve covers off I noticed that these beehive springs were in the way to get to some of the headstuds and therefore lost interest. Does that sound normal? maybe I looked at it wrong.

lincolnlocker · May 3, 2015

DoubleL said:
So maybe I better also do compression test tomorrow as maybe excessive blowby is oil leak? :

not maybe.. you need to do so... but if you are blowing oil out the dipstick tube on a 7.3 then you should know you already have a problem...

live life full throttle

DoubleL · May 3, 2015

I guess what I'm not sure of is if headgaskets would cause both of my issues?
Or do I need to be also looking at pressurizing the coolant and looking for other possibilities besides headgaskets?

Magnum PD · May 3, 2015

Pressurize the coolant system and do a compression test.

DoubleL · May 3, 2015

So I just had to go on another test drive before tearing anything apart. Truck runs great up to 40 psi boost and pulls hard. Didn't spew any coolant or oil.

So I'm able to check compression today and thinking I'll hot torque heads also. Anyone ever luck out if it's lifting heads to do hot torque and keep them down at high boost levels afterwards?

What torque are h-11 studs supposed to be? Searching now also...

lincolnlocker · May 3, 2015

Magnum PD said:
Pressurize the coolant system and do a compression test.

exactly that!!

DoubleL said:
So I just had to go on another test drive before tearing anything apart. Truck runs great up to 40 psi boost and pulls hard. Didn't spew any coolant or oil.

So I'm able to check compression today and thinking I'll hot torque heads also. Anyone ever luck out if it's lifting heads to do hot torque and keep them down at high boost levels afterwards?

What torque are h-11 studs supposed to be? Searching now also...

so let me get this straight, you installed h-11s and have no idea what they are supposed to be torqued to?

live life full throttle

Magnum PD · May 3, 2015

125 ft lbs I'd say

DoubleL · May 3, 2015

No I bought a used built block with heads on it already.

Thanks for torque value, I seen lots of posts stating 135. So I'll keep her right in there 125-135

Arisley · May 3, 2015

I torqued my H-11's to 140, in three steps.

DoubleL · May 3, 2015

Cold? And then again after heat cycles or while hot second time?

DoubleL · May 3, 2015

I'm half done with compression test. Drivers side all aprox 300psi. I'm at 2900 feet elevation.
Gonna go the fun side I guess.
Wondering if all you guys change injectors orings no matter high many miles or heat cycles they've had? Mine have about 400 miles on them and I'm planning on pulling them to check cups, do cooling system pressure test, and retorque headstuds to 140ft lbs.
I'll have to order orings if that's the consensus is why I ask.

lincolnlocker · May 3, 2015

DoubleL said:
I'm half done with compression test. Drivers side all aprox 300psi. I'm at 2900 feet elevation.
Gonna go the fun side I guess.
Wondering if all you guys change injectors orings no matter high many miles or heat cycles they've had? Mine have about 400 miles on them and I'm planning on pulling them to check cups, do cooling system pressure test, and retorque headstuds to 140ft lbs.
I'll have to order orings if that's the consensus is why I ask.

is that hot or cold compression numbers?

itz always good to have fresh orings but many have pulled injectors and put them back in without issue.. just make sure you have them in a vat of thick oil prior to putting them in.

live life full throttle