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6speedsd

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So I have injectors sticking like hell. Tried Revex but it didn't work. Was getting a code for #5, but now I'm also getting one for #1 that comes back every time I clear it off. Did a buzz test this morning. #1 and #5 don't click. This power balance was ran with temps around 160. 1 and 8 stay close to zero, but 2-7 all drop below. Opinions?

Here is what a few parameters looked like at idle, same temps.
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suprdzlduty

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Make sure the ficm is carrying the proper voltage...after that its time for injectors and upgrade if you wanted to. 5w40 oil might help if you haven't tried that, but if revx didn't help at all then it's time to bite the bullet.
 

6speedsd

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Voltages are just right. Already running 5w40. Have been for the longest. It has gotten bad here in the last week or so. At first it was just one injector. Cleared right up after a bit then ran perfect. Now it's gotten sluggish, I can feel a slight miss at idle, and started throwing that code on #1 as well. This sucks. Was hoping to just replace the one bad one at first but now it seems like they are all trying to die.
 

6speedsd

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Looking at the power balance, do y'all think all of them look weak? Like I said, I did the buzz test on a cold engine and the two I mentioned were the only ones that didn't buzz. The rest clicked/buzzed as the were supposed to. Most of my income comes in the summer months, so $400-500 for 2 injectors is easier to bite off right now than $1500-1600 for a full set.
 

6speedsd

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Yes it passes KOEO.

Code was cylinder 1 contribution. As I said every now and then it would throw that one for cyl 5. But cyl 1 comes back now every time I cleared it. Cleared it 3 times this morning and it came right back after every time.
 

range91

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When was the last time fuel filters were changed? Have u checked fuel pressure? I had a buddy who had a fass pump fail on him twice the second time truck would run but would throw a couple contribution codes randomly. We put a new oe pump on it and the truck has been running smooth.. Not to say this is what is wrong with yours but just letting u know what I've come acrossed.
 

POWER-STRUCK

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i'm not familiar with AE but if it is similar to ford ids the cylinders do not seem to be dropping out. and if the injector doesn't buzz at all you could just have a loose spool bolt. if stiction is the real issue i have other solutions if you want to take a chance.
 

6speedsd

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Filters have maybe 2000 miles on them. Fuel pressure is 52lbs at idle. Blue spring is on the to do list.

I've had stiction issues for the past 5-6 mths. Just seem to be getting worse as of late. As long as I plug the truck up, it'll never miss a beat. Even unplugged, it cranks right up no matter how cold it is outside. Just runs like crap until the temps come up. Surging bucking, blueish white smoke. You can tell all 8 aren't firing like they should. No real drivability issues once the temps are up, just that it seems really sluggish lately.
 

6speedsd

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i'm not familiar with AE but if it is similar to ford ids the cylinders do not seem to be dropping out. and if the injector doesn't buzz at all you could just have a loose spool bolt. if stiction is the real issue i have other solutions if you want to take a chance.

Entertain me.
 

range91

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Filters have maybe 2000 miles on them. Fuel pressure is 52lbs at idle. Blue spring is on the to do list.

I've had stiction issues for the past 5-6 mths. Just seem to be getting worse as of late. As long as I plug the truck up, it'll never miss a beat. Even unplugged, it cranks right up no matter how cold it is outside. Just runs like crap until the temps come up. Surging bucking, blueish white smoke. You can tell all 8 aren't firing like they should. No real drivability issues once the temps are up, just that it seems really sluggish lately.

Well this is a little more useful info more than likely is a stiction issue if it goes away once warm.. A lot of people have had good luck with archoil as well may be worth try.. Did u do 4 or 8 oz of revx?
 

6speedsd

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2 bottles, so 8oz. It does seem to clear up a little faster than it did before, but really didn't help enough to justify the cost. Still was worth a try.
 

6speedsd

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Still waiting on tax return so I haven't replaced injectors yet. Maybe its a good thing i havent yet. Just came out and did another cold engine buzz test. This thing is acting all kinds of screwy. First time only 2,3,6,and 7 clicked. Next time same ones except 1 and 4 barely clicked. Did it again, and everything but 4,5, and 8 clicked. Did it one last time, 1,4,5, and 8 didn't click. It's like sometimes certain ones will click, then the very next time I do the test they won't. Weird thing is I've only thrown contribution codes for 1 and 5.

The last time I did this only 1 and 5 didn't buzz. I guess I'm about to have to replace the whole damn set.
 

Mdub707

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If it's doing it intermittently, I'd suspect the FICM or the wiring. At first glance with those numbers I thought FICM, but the harness' on the FICM are different. One plug goes to 1,4,6,7 and the other is 2,3,5,8.

Do you have access to a different FICM to try? You should really test it cold (cold motor) and try doing a multi-meter, I don't put much faith in what comes off of the OBD port for those. Even still, I have some that read a perfect 48V across the board (under all three conditions) and still don't work right.

Have the batteries been load tested? How old are they?
 

6speedsd

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Batteries are a couple years old, and still test fine. Checked ficm voltages about a week ago with a multimeter and all were good. Don't have access to another ficm though.

It's not random. It does this every single time I do a buzz test on a cold engine. If its warm, or has been plugged up all night, all 8 buzz as they should. I am still almost certain it's stiction. If I have it plugged in, it'll fire right up and runs fine even when cold (other than being a little sluggish). If I forget to plug it up, it still fires right over, but it romps and surges and clangs and blows that blueish smoke for a minute or so, then it starts clearing up.
 

6speedsd

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So, just pulled the cover off the ficm and checked voltages, just for the hell of it. Key on, 38V! I checked that a few months ago when the truck first started running rough, and they were all good. Now all of a sudden it's 38V. Didn't even try to crank it. Didn't see the point. If it's low with key on, it's low everywhere else. That could be why I kept getting crazy random readings during the buzz tests. Time to break out the solder gun!

Answer me this though. I understand a weak ficm will cause injector codes and rough running. But why does this thing start right up without a hitch if I have it plugged in, or after its up to op temps? Shouldn't it act the same either way with a weak one?
 
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6speedsd

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Pulled it apart. One of those little square resistor things had come loose. Resoldered everything, hooked it all back up and now I'm getting 48.5v all the way through. Just did a buzz test and all 8 clicked. Suhweeeet! Lets see how she runs in the morning. Not plugging it up tonight. Supposed to be right around freezing temps.
 

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