pics of lpop - need advice
- Thread starter ChunderDownUnder
- Start date
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
oh wow! thats all it was is the two connection switched?
Big Bore
New member
Glad you found it. I guess that's one of the benefits of not having an EBPV and a dummy connector in the plug for it, it eliminates one dumb mistake from the rest of them for me.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
prolly derailed this thread enough but looks like those are the next step down from the diehard platinums... doesnt look to bad... i would say oddesy, diehard platinum, then the bci's are made in the same place. other then the bci's are led post and not tin, and just a hair smaller in cca. how long have you been running them?
ChunderDownUnder
New member
I will tape that connector off so it dont happen again. I have to put my bullbar on then Im off for a run. On my own here so it aint no easy feat. I have an old video here but I cant seem to get it to connect to my puter. Will try and sort something out.
BigAlsPSD
New member
Awesome Brian, and good job Ron for thinking/remembering the EBPV plug, I never think about that one.
Brian,
Rather than taping those plugs over and still being stuck with the soft codes from the EBPV, AIH, Waste Gate Solenoid pick up a pack of 1/2watt or 1 watt 470ohm resistors. Only costs a few dollars. Then solder each end into the connectors or clip the connectors and solder them straight to the two wire ends. One end to each wire. That will prevent the soft codes you normally get from those connectors. It will also prevent you from having connectors hanging loose in your engine bay. You would tuck them back into the wire loom so everything looks clean and tight.
Rather than taping those plugs over and still being stuck with the soft codes from the EBPV, AIH, Waste Gate Solenoid pick up a pack of 1/2watt or 1 watt 470ohm resistors. Only costs a few dollars. Then solder each end into the connectors or clip the connectors and solder them straight to the two wire ends. One end to each wire. That will prevent the soft codes you normally get from those connectors. It will also prevent you from having connectors hanging loose in your engine bay. You would tuck them back into the wire loom so everything looks clean and tight.
ChunderDownUnder
New member
Shall do. Will that work for the fuel heater as well
ChunderDownUnder
New member
well its definitely got more life in her. Much smoother and quieter. Have to check the collector behind the turbo. I dont think it is on right. Cant build much boost and I can here it hiss in the engine bay. Oh and I forgot to mention that I havent sealed the oil pan right.It is leaking out the passenger side rear corner. I kinda new when I put it on but thought , hey she'll be right. WRONG. Dont care tho. its running and Im happy.
Glad shes running well. You will get the boost drive side leaks worked out.
But damn you must enjoy taking that engine out LOL You are beating the crap out of yourself having to pull it again to redo the oil pan. But like you said at least she is running and running well.
But damn you must enjoy taking that engine out LOL You are beating the crap out of yourself having to pull it again to redo the oil pan. But like you said at least she is running and running well.
ChunderDownUnder
New member
Thats what happens when you rush things. What with the wife and kids and a 60-70hr working week I have busted my ass to get this done. And now Im paying for it again. But hey, like you said, its gunna be a piece of piss pulln that motor again.
V-Ref
Active member
If you don't mind sharing..What made you think that when installing the oil pan?
ChunderDownUnder
New member
When the pan compressed with the bolts I wasnt happy with the amount that was squishing. There is a decent gap between the bottom of the rear cover and the pan and there should be a nice thick bead along the outer edge.
ChunderDownUnder
New member
its been a busy week but managed to pull the engine and fix the pan. Sat nite and she fired up pretty much straight away. Will put the front end on 2morrow and take her for a spin. One question - Im reading 45psi oil pressure at the hpop at idle. Is that OK.
3
took a video on da phone just gotta work out how to put it on the pwuta.
took a video on da phone just gotta work out how to put it on the pwuta.
Chvyrkr
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I seem to remember reading in the ford engine manual that you should have 40-70 at 3300 RPM. I don't remember it specifying what idle pressure was supposed to be.
I do however remember seeing a significant difference in LPO pressure with cold oil, VS once it reached normal temps.
Are you checking hot?
45psi with cold oil is what I'd probably call normal.
I do however remember seeing a significant difference in LPO pressure with cold oil, VS once it reached normal temps.
Are you checking hot?
45psi with cold oil is what I'd probably call normal.
Ron's Power Stroke
Member
mine cold was 40.. up to temp around 25..all at idle
ChunderDownUnder
New member
sweet. that was at cold temp.
ChunderDownUnder
New member
reservoir Joe. AE shows the hpop. Heres a video. It was late at night so excuse the quality. let me know if it doesnt work
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Yep that sounds just like a good 7.3 that just had its injectors changed out. Some air still in the HPOP side of the injectors and why the long crank time but everything sounds good. The first time the bang sound of the injectors tie from the HPOP not being completely air free I assume worried me but sure enough a few good drives and it was all smoothed out.
You should be happy you were able to build this all up on your own only with support from the forums. Great job!!!!!
You should be happy you were able to build this all up on your own only with support from the forums. Great job!!!!!
