Possible cracked block?

[Lt.Dan]

I would prefer to weld it if i could, one less possible leak right?

 

[79jasper]

Correct.

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[Lt.Dan]

Well, i welded up the holes, and then took them over to the mill to machine all of the surfaces flat, just for aesthetics, and because i like the practice. But little did i know, how thin the material is between the surface and the large oiling hole, and successfully machined right through it, creating a hole about 5/16" in diameter. So we're going to try and weld it up, inside and out (you can see the hole from the underside), and ill put it back on. If it ends up not working, ill purchase a blank Garret pedestal...

 

[joe d]

I have a pedestal your more then welcom two out of my 97 50$ plus the ride..

 

[Lt.Dan]

I have a pedestal your more then welcom two out of my 97 50$ plus the ride..

Im assuming its an ebpv pedestal?

And if i cant get it welded up, ill hit you up. Thank you!

 

[joe d]

Yes stock pedestal out of my sig truck. Dony know why i typed 97 and not 96.

 

[Charles]

What ever happened to the good ole days of pulling the rod out as far as it will come, bolt cutters, the rest snaps back in, tap the thing for 1/4 pipe IIRC and crank a plug in it?

5 minutes, tops.

Isn't that what you're trying to accomplish? No more leak around the epbv rod?

 

[79jasper]

That's basically what I did with mine.
But I believe he was trying to remove some stuff to have more room, in effect like the non-ebpv pedestal.

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[JCart]

Iirc I was concerned the internal plunger was leaking excessively causing oil out the rod opening. And it's my understanding if you remove the plunger (from the cylinder) then you risk not getting enough oil up to the turbo.

What I did was cut the cylinder off with a zip cut saw, taped and plugged all the oil holes and the oil drain in the end of the cylinder I JB welded it closed. The solinoid hole I tapped and plugged, on all plugs I used JB on that too. Easy if you don't have access to welder.

jrc

 

[Lt.Dan]

The plug probably works just fine for 99% of people out there. I'm a fabricator, so i like to do things a certain way. And welding, machining, cutting etc is what I enjoy doing. So in the mean time of waiting for parts to come in the mail, ill have fun with this pedestal. Plus i would like to be able to make it easier to remove the turbo in the future, who doesn't like that? I also wont have to worry about in the future the plug backing out (like ive read happens in the turbo outlet after they gut the housing).

I also have read it produces better oiling to the turbo, with a better path in and out of the pedestal, more oil is likely to flow through it right?

 

[old man dave]

What ever happened to the good ole days of pulling the rod out as far as it will come, bolt cutters, the rest snaps back in, tap the thing for 1/4 pipe IIRC and crank a plug in it?

5 minutes, tops.

Isn't that what you're trying to accomplish? No more leak around the epbv rod?

On an OBS, you want to remove the cylinder housing hump for better access to the rear pedestal bolts, a non-issue on a SD.

 

[JCart]

While you're machining I'd cut the front webing back on the pedistal to make it easier to install the E fuel lines, if maintaining the big banjo bolt assembly.

jrc

 

[old man dave]

The plug probably works just fine for 99% of people out there. I'm a fabricator, so i like to do things a certain way. And welding, machining, cutting etc is what I enjoy doing. So in the mean time of waiting for parts to come in the mail, ill have fun with this pedestal. Plus i would like to be able to make it easier to remove the turbo in the future, who doesn't like that? I also wont have to worry about in the future the plug backing out (like ive read happens in the turbo outlet after they gut the housing).

I also have read it produces better oiling to the turbo, with a better path in and out of the pedestal, more oil is likely to flow through it right?

The pedestal plugs don't back out if initially torqued properly. And in the long term the steel plugs seize up to the aluminum pedestal due to electrolysis. Just don't use anti-seize, let chemistry do the work, Mother Nature will weld them together. Good luck taking them out later.

The pipe plugs in the gutted EBPV, I just torqued the Sh#t out of them and when I checked them 80k later, they really didn't want to come out then either. I did remove the EBPV shaft bearing sleeves before tapping the EBPV housing though.

As far as improved oiling? No such luck. The piston is moved by differential pressure, when the solenoid operates, oil is drained off of the back side of the piston allowing engine oil pressure to push the piston, operating the EBPV (under cold engine operation). The piston isolates the turbo supply pressure side from the drain side. The piston drain side oil supply has an orifice to limit oil flow so not much oil is diverted when the solenoid is operated, the higher oil pressure on the supply side of the piston then pushes the piston to the closed side. The drain hole is larger than the drain side oil supply orifice, llimiting supply oil and causing drain side oil pressure to drop. Piston then moves.

When the solenoid is not operating, then there is no oil draining off (normal warm operating conditions). Oil pressure is equalized on both sides of the piston, so no movement of the piston and that little spring in there has just enough force to keep the piston in the open EBPV position. So when you plug off the solenoid or just leave it in there, there is no more oil available to the turbo than usual under warm engine conditions (EBPV open). I had the solenoid (with electrical plug chopped off) in there with no piston guts without a problem for thousands of happy miles.

I used to work on sub periscope hoists, differential pressure is used to raise and lower the scopes.

Oil pressure problems did occur when some dufus:morons: would gut out the piston assembly and then leave the solenoid plugged in, allowing oil to drain out of the piston cylinder under cold engine operation. With no piston to isolate the turbo oil from the drain oil side there would be loss of oil pressure to the turbo bearings since the solenoid valve being open would be directly draining the' turbo oil supply. Definitely baaad Ju-Ju.

 

[Charles]

On an OBS, you want to remove the cylinder housing hump for better access to the rear pedestal bolts, a non-issue on a SD.

Now that makes sense. I've never messed with an OBS turbo. On a superduty you don't even take the charger off the truck. Just yank the CAC tube out of the way, snip the offending rod off and tap, tap, tap the plug in, lol.

Go on about your business minus the puddle. File the "metal shavings" under "I've got other sh*t to worry about".

 

[79jasper]

Plus you can't remove the turbo without the pedestal on obs.

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[Lt.Dan]

While you're machining I'd cut the front webing back on the pedistal to make it easier to install the E fuel lines, if maintaining the big banjo bolt assembly.

jrc

I actually have the efuel system from markfuga over on PSN (dunno if hes on this site too?). So i can remove the fuel lines to the head without having to remove the pedestal. Makes things nice and easy, and really cleans up the engine bay.

The pedestal plugs don't back out if initially torqued properly. And in the long term the steel plugs seize up to the aluminum pedestal due to electrolysis. Just don't use anti-seize, let chemistry do the work, Mother Nature will weld them together. Good luck taking them out later.

The pipe plugs in the gutted EBPV, I just torqued the Sh#t out of them and when I checked them 80k later, they really didn't want to come out then either. I did remove the EBPV shaft bearing sleeves before tapping the EBPV housing though.

As far as improved oiling? No such luck. The piston is moved by differential pressure, when the solenoid operates, oil is drained off of the back side of the piston allowing engine oil pressure to push the piston, operating the EBPV (under cold engine operation). The piston isolates the turbo supply pressure side from the drain side. The piston drain side oil supply has an orifice to limit oil flow so not much oil is diverted when the solenoid is operated, the higher oil pressure on the supply side of the piston then pushes the piston to the closed side. The drain hole is larger than the drain side oil supply orifice, llimiting supply oil and causing drain side oil pressure to drop. Piston then moves.

When the solenoid is not operating, then there is no oil draining off (normal warm operating conditions). Oil pressure is equalized on both sides of the piston, so no movement of the piston and that little spring in there has just enough force to keep the piston in the open EBPV position. So when you plug off the solenoid or just leave it in there, there is no more oil available to the turbo than usual under warm engine conditions (EBPV open). I had the solenoid (with electrical plug chopped off) in there with no piston guts without a problem for thousands of happy miles.

I used to work on sub periscope hoists, differential pressure is used to raise and lower the scopes.

Oil pressure problems did occur when some dufus:morons: would gut out the piston assembly and then leave the solenoid plugged in, allowing oil to drain out of the piston cylinder under cold engine operation. With no piston to isolate the turbo oil from the drain oil side there would be loss of oil pressure to the turbo bearings since the solenoid valve being open would be directly draining the' turbo oil supply. Definitely baaad Ju-Ju.

I guess I misunderstood how the system worked, i thought the ebpv was fed from the inlet side, and created turbulence and slowed oil flow into the turbo. But i guess not, learn something new everyday.

Plus you can't remove the turbo without the pedestal on obs.

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Bingo. SD's can just unbolt the turbo from the pedestal, where OBS's have to pull the turbo and pedestal as one...

 

[Lt.Dan]

I also just finished putting my turbo back together today after getting my 360 rebuild kit yesterday. Rebuilding it was waaayyyy easier than i thought it was going to be. My only concern, is inside the kit, came with this o-ring thats shaped like a plus sign (pictured here: http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0689/6015/products/GTP38full_grande.jpg?v=1447903409). But i dont see where it goes in the turbo, so i left it out? Is it a SD only o-ring? Or was it something that i missed? The rebuild kit didnt come with instructions...

 

[79jasper]

Yeah, SD only.

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[Lt.Dan]

Perfect thank you bud.

And i tried welding that hole in the pedestal today, and successfully got closed up without closing up the oil passage inside, so today was a big success and a little money saver. Tomorrow i hear back from my buddy who sent my heads to the machine shop to see what the word is on them, hopefully some good news!

 

[Rico]

I've got the same fuel kit. Works well