Project Wheels Up

JoeDaddy · Jun 24, 2014

Here's my advice in case I'm being too vague.
90's dakota frame - cheap
9" with tone ring - I've seen these made from implement sprockets.

Lose 500lbs of weight and put it back where you want instead of putting it all on the shoulders of the suspension. 5 link rear with your coil-overs and mono floaters if rules require. Radiator in the rear and close of the front.

Otherwise you "try" to keep making that chassis fast. MHO

bigrpowr · Jun 24, 2014

vanderchevy18 said:
Unless you're a little sleezeball that enters into DPC with a 6.7....

who's that ? please expand.

vanderchevy18 · Jun 24, 2014

Nevermind. It's really old news but he's on our local diesel Facebook page so it's not so old news for us.

bigrpowr · Jun 25, 2014

vanderchevy18 said:
Nevermind. It's really old news but he's on our local diesel Facebook page so it's not so old news for us.

so the dude that did dpc with the 6.7 is a sleazeball and was sponsored? is he local to Kansas? I don't fagbook so please explain.

vanderchevy18 · Jun 25, 2014

The SPE debacle. It was on here.

Lysons · Jun 25, 2014

Are you talking about Doyle from last year?

vanderchevy18 · Jun 25, 2014

Thats the one.

vanderchevy18 · Jun 25, 2014

New radiator, smaller fan, and a few nitrous parts are on their way. I'll get the spoiler put on while I'm waiting on parts.

Thinking about just ditching the top bar and going to caltracs. Thoughts?

Hotrodtractor · Jun 25, 2014

vanderchevy18 said:
New radiator, smaller fan, and a few nitrous parts are on their way. I'll get the spoiler put on while I'm waiting on parts.

Thinking about just ditching the top bar and going to caltracs. Thoughts?

That would be an improvement over what you have.

vanderchevy18 · Jun 25, 2014

Meh. I'll toss some on then.

lincolnlocker · Jun 25, 2014

why not go with a normal set of traction bars?

live life full throttle

rat49f6 · Jun 25, 2014

What are the super street suspension rules you keep saying no 4 link.. what about 2 or 3

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Cutting-Edge Diesel · Jun 25, 2014

Must have factory suspension.

rat49f6 · Jun 25, 2014

The id just do the bats up front as if they were traction bars but they are really doing more

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vanderchevy18 · Jun 25, 2014

Well that was kind of the whole point behind what we did. The track bars on top and the one stiff spring on bottom was supposed to be a sort of legal 4 link.

Hotrodtractor · Jun 25, 2014

vanderchevy18 said:
Well that was kind of the whole point behind what we did. The track bars on top and the one stiff spring on bottom was supposed to be a sort of legal 4 link.

The idea is still solid - the problem is with the execution. It can still be a leaf spring and a bar, but it needs to be setup to work smoothly and not store excessive amounts of energy that get released causing the cyclical breaking of traction that you experience. You can take the time and lay it all out and get it setup just right or you can slap on a set of caltracs and move on. Your choice. Personally I would build the bar and leaf spring setup so it works and have something better than the caltrac - but its more up front work.

vanderchevy18 · Jun 25, 2014

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html

Ok so question. If my center of gravity height is basically where the camshaft is, and all I care about in setting up the linkage is the height of the center of gravity, why care about getting on the scales to figure my exact center of gravity? Just draw a line from the center of my front tires at the camshaft, down to the rear contact patch. There's my antisquat line. Then theoretically as long as I can adjust my upper bar to get an angle that intersects on or just above it, I'm good. Simple..... No?

Hotrodtractor · Jun 25, 2014

vanderchevy18 said:
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html

Ok so question. If my center of gravity height is basically where the camshaft is, and all I care about in setting up the linkage is the height of the center of gravity, why care about getting on the scales to figure my exact center of gravity? Just draw a line from the center of my front tires at the camshaft, down to the rear contact patch. There's my antisquat line. Then theoretically as long as I can adjust my upper bar to get an angle that intersects on or just above it, I'm good. Simple..... No?

Its not that simple - while basically correct, its better to know exactly where your CG is so you can get even closer. Also that basic assumption assumes that you have a much better front to rear weight distribution and knowing exactly what that weight distribution is will help you greatly. When I was helping with Brandon Miller's Cummins S10 it was amazing how we could tweak that chassis using corner scales by changing preload and how that effected the weight distribution front to rear and left to right. In fact having that information was exactly how we determined he bent his frame an 1/8" after he kiss the wall.... it was not visable by the naked eye and took some creativity to determine how and where it was actually bent.

vanderchevy18 · Jun 26, 2014

I have it scheduled to go into Holzmans next week to get it on scales and see what we can do with it. I want to go racing this Saturday though. Tomorrow I'm going to get my new nitrous nozzle in, get the trans brake working, install the new radiator, and put a rear wing on it. We'll see how much that helps. Maybe leaving even harder and a little down force will make it a little more manageable. Plus I'm going to roast the **** out of the tires. I keep being told that I'm not heating them up enough.