Pulling a ZF6

[rascal]

Well I am about to pull my ZF6 (for the first time) to replace my clutch and repair what I believe is a rear main seal issue.

Anyone have any tips or tricks on this? How does everyone usually go about getting the top 2 bolts? I planning on connecting 3-4 long extensions and reaching from the back of the tranny.

Also, I am planning on pulling it with the transfer case attached.

Any thoughts or recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks,

 

[BlueScab]

A good transmission jack and an extra set of hands.

 

[sniper_101]

Don't just unbolt the shifter handle from the stub. Remove the 6 allen heads from the top of the trans case and pull it, or else you'll tear the little shift boot when you tilt the trans.

The top two bolts aren't bad from what I remember. Takes a bit of messing around to figure out the best extension configuration, but the bolts shouldn't be too crazy tight.

Now is also a good time to do any up-pipe gasket leaks, or find a leak you didn't know you had.

A transmission/ATV jack and a regular rolling jack for the trans (bottle jack with 2x4's under the oil pan of engine to support/tilt) will be needed if you put in back in by yourself. Watch the dowel pins on re-installation and and if you can keep it all aligned, it should just pop right in. So if it struggles, you're either caught on something or not aligned, don't force it.

- Just what I've learned removing/installing mine 4 times. Twice with the T-case on, twice off.

 

[CTFFEMT]

Don't just unbolt the shifter handle from the stub. Remove the 6 allen heads from the top of the trans case and pull it, or else you'll tear the little shift boot when you tilt the trans.

The top two bolts aren't bad from what I remember. Takes a bit of messing around to figure out the best extension configuration, but the bolts shouldn't be too crazy tight.

Now is also a good time to do any up-pipe gasket leaks, or find a leak you didn't know you had.

A transmission/ATV jack and a regular rolling jack for the trans (bottle jack with 2x4's under the oil pan of engine to support/tilt) will be needed if you put in back in by yourself. Watch the dowel pins on re-installation and and if you can keep it all aligned, it should just pop right in. So if it struggles, you're either caught on something or not aligned, don't force it.

- Just what I've learned removing/installing mine 4 times. Twice with the T-case on, twice off.

^ what he said

the top 2 bolts aren't that bad. I don't recall needing any extension but I do think I used a deep socket.

FWIW, I stabilized the tranny and T-case using rachet straps. also allowed me to control dropping it. I bent the tranny jack plate (harbor freight special jack) so I'm glad I had extra support.

Make sure you're in neutral before pulling it.

I also loosed the motor mounts because I found it easier to take it out and put it back in with the motor tilted backwards a little bit

 

[sniper_101]

^ what he said

the top 2 bolts aren't that bad. I don't recall needing any extension but I do think I used a deep socket.

FWIW, I stabilized the tranny and T-case using rachet straps. also allowed me to control dropping it. I bent the tranny jack plate (harbor freight special jack) so I'm glad I had extra support.

Make sure you're in neutral before pulling it.

I also loosed the motor mounts because I found it easier to take it out and put it back in with the motor tilted backwards a little bit

I just have to ask, why neutral? No resistance when pulling it out?

I left mine in low gear, low range. Made it easy to turn the output shaft/input shaft when stabbing the trans back in.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Well I am about to pull my ZF6 (for the first time) to replace my clutch and repair what I believe is a rear main seal issue.

Anyone have any tips or tricks on this? How does everyone usually go about getting the top 2 bolts? I planning on connecting 3-4 long extensions and reaching from the back of the tranny.

Also, I am planning on pulling it with the transfer case attached.

Any thoughts or recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks,

Are you 100% sure that its the rear main leaking? Its very rare that they leak there.

live life full throttle

 

[fordornothing]

I used about 4' worth of extensions for the top 2 bolts. Ratchet straps to keep it where you want it and not upside down under the pickup... (Don't ask). I put mine in gear, doesn't really matter which one just to turn the out put to re align the input spline on the disk. You may have to move the jack around to find the balance point.

Are you replacing the flywheel too? If not get it ground. I think car quest can do that.

Like said earlier, pull the tower off the top with the 6 bolts. Those do not need to be super tight when you put them back in. Make sure you remove the cover plate on the lower half of the bell housing.


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[rascal]

Are you 100% sure that its the rear main leaking? Its very rare that they leak there.

live life full throttle

Nothing in the engine valley is leaking and I am loosing quite a bit of oil and it is coming out of every hole in the bell housing. It is not tranmission fluid either.

It might be the rear cover or maybe even the rear of the oil pan but I just have a gut feeling it is the rear main. I will upload pics of the mess once i get the trans out.

 

[rascal]

I used about 4' worth of extensions for the top 2 bolts. Ratchet straps to keep it where you want it and not upside down under the pickup... (Don't ask). I put mine in gear, doesn't really matter which one just to turn the out put to re align the input spline on the disk. You may have to move the jack around to find the balance point.

Are you replacing the flywheel too? If not get it ground. I think car quest can do that.

Like said earlier, pull the tower off the top with the 6 bolts. Those do not need to be super tight when you put them back in. Make sure you remove the cover plate on the lower half of the bell housing.


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I am replacing clutch and flywheel with one of SouthBend's new HD units. I have already pulled the shifter (6 bolts) and the cover plate.

Thanks!

 

[rascal]

^ what he said

the top 2 bolts aren't that bad. I don't recall needing any extension but I do think I used a deep socket.

FWIW, I stabilized the tranny and T-case using rachet straps. also allowed me to control dropping it. I bent the tranny jack plate (harbor freight special jack) so I'm glad I had extra support.

Make sure you're in neutral before pulling it.

I also loosed the motor mounts because I found it easier to take it out and put it back in with the motor tilted backwards a little bit

I planned on the ratchet straps as well when I decided I was not going to pull the t-case before pulling the tranny. I will feel a lot better having the extra support. The tranny is in neutral and the tcase is in 2WD. That is what my Chilton manual suggested.

I have everything taken off and she is ready to pull. I plan on taking it out this weekend.

Thanks!

 

[rascal]

Don't just unbolt the shifter handle from the stub. Remove the 6 allen heads from the top of the trans case and pull it, or else you'll tear the little shift boot when you tilt the trans.

The top two bolts aren't bad from what I remember. Takes a bit of messing around to figure out the best extension configuration, but the bolts shouldn't be too crazy tight.

Now is also a good time to do any up-pipe gasket leaks, or find a leak you didn't know you had.

A transmission/ATV jack and a regular rolling jack for the trans (bottle jack with 2x4's under the oil pan of engine to support/tilt) will be needed if you put in back in by yourself. Watch the dowel pins on re-installation and and if you can keep it all aligned, it should just pop right in. So if it struggles, you're either caught on something or not aligned, don't force it.

- Just what I've learned removing/installing mine 4 times. Twice with the T-case on, twice off.

Are you refering to the dowel pins that aligh the bell housing? I have heard about jacking the front of the engine up a little to ease re-installation but I would be very nervous applying force to the oil pan. Wouldn't it crush?

I will definitely check for up-pipe leaks but at this point I dont think I have any. I thought about new ones but want to eventually move up to a T4 setup from irate eventually. Hoping my current pipes will hold out till then.

Did you remove your exhaust when you removed the tranny? I am planning on not removing mine.

Thanks!

 

[2000wa250]

Only thing I can see you running into is when you line everything back up, you won't be able to spin the tail shaft to help line up the splines on the input shaft.

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[rascal]

A good transmission jack and an extra set of hands.

I have a transmission adapter for a floor jack rated for 400lbs but I will also be using ratchet straps to give me that warm and fuzzy while doing this.

Dont have any extra hands really available to me. The wife is not much help with this kind of stuff and my 2 year old son isn't quite there yet. <grin>

Thanks!

 

[rascal]

Only thing I can see you running into is when you line everything back up, you won't be able to spin the tail shaft to help line up the splines on the input shaft.

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So you would you suggest I put the trans in low or first?

 

[2000wa250]

I have a transmission adapter for a floor jack rated for 400lbs but I will also be using ratchet straps to give me that warm and fuzzy while doing this.

Dont have any extra hands really available to me. The wife is not much help with this kind of stuff and my 2 year old son isn't quite there yet. <grin>

Thanks!

That's going to be very close. Trans and t case weigh 550 I believe...not positive though. Its worth it to rent a transmission jack if you can find one. You'll thank me later. With the t case on it the thing is incredibly unbalanced and wants to roll over on its side.

Yes I would leave it in gear. That way you can line the shaft up, and spin the tail shaft while pushing it forward until the splines line up.

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[rascal]

That's going to be very close. Trans and t case weigh 550 I believe...not positive though. Its worth it to rent a transmission jack if you can find one. You'll thank me later. With the t case on it the thing is incredibly unbalanced and wants to roll over on its side.

Yes I would leave it in gear. That way you can line the shaft up, and spin the tail shaft while pushing it forward until the splines line up.

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Very good points, thank you! Harbor Freight has a trans jack rated for 800lbs for 139 I am now thinking about purchasing since I work at a slow pace sometimes. A wife, child, and a full time job tend to take up most of my time.

 

[2000wa250]

May work...personally though when I'm working with that heavy and awkward stuff I tend not to trust cheap Chinese made steel....check with your local united rentals and see if that have one. Generally extremely cheap to rent, and since they rarely are rented, the guys tend to only charge for a.day or two even if you have it a week

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[JD3020]

Everytime i've done a transmission i've used an ATV jack, works perfect. Just gotta be careful to not let the handle get wedged up under the truck...

I've got a question though. Does the clutch unbolt from the flywheel and drop with the transmission like a torque converter? I'm pulling the engine/trans out of my parts truck this weekend but i've never pulled a manual, always been auto's. It has a Southbend dual-disc so i don't' want to screw it up when i go to take it apart.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Everytime i've done a transmission i've used an ATV jack, works perfect. Just gotta be careful to not let the handle get wedged up under the truck...

I've got a question though. Does the clutch unbolt from the flywheel and drop with the transmission like a torque converter? I'm pulling the engine/trans out of my parts truck this weekend but i've never pulled a manual, always been auto's. It has a Southbend dual-disc so i don't' want to screw it up when i go to take it apart.

Pressure plate stays connected to the flywheel.

live life full throttle

 

[rascal]

May work...personally though when I'm working with that heavy and awkward stuff I tend not to trust cheap Chinese made steel....check with your local united rentals and see if that have one. Generally extremely cheap to rent, and since they rarely are rented, the guys tend to only charge for a.day or two even if you have it a week

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I will look into a rental. Thanks!