Rear oil leak

[Dieselboy.]

Again Im fighting with an oil leak from the back of the motor. Believe the pan is warped from the core engine. I found that leak from when I installed it on the driver side rear corner.

However, after pulling the motor, the insepction cover and starter rear main area behind the flexplate is covered in oil.

I filled it extra full on the stand with it tilted towards the back to see if I can get it to leak but it only leaks from the pan gasket.

I cleaned the back of the motor with break clean. Anyone have any ideas for me to pressurize the motor to simulate it running. I dont think the the oil could work its way agaisnt gravity into the inspection cover and then get throw around.

But I dont wanna rip off the rear main seal and cover plate if I dont have to.

Thanks.

 

[Powerstroked162]

What are you using to seal the pan to the pan rails? How high up the back of te engine were you able to trace the oil leak? What's the firewall look like? Could be pedestal o-rings maybe

 

[Dieselboy.]

INTL grey death silicone at 50$ a tube...

Its not from the top, I have the motor on the stand. This is the second time the pan gasket has failed. So I bought a different pan from another member.

Ive looked over the rear main several times and not a drop comes out on the stand, its been over 24 hrs since I pulled it and filled it. So it either needs to be pressurized or its just the pan gasket leaking in and getting sprayed from the flexplate.

 

[Justin@DP-Tuner]

I have been dealing with the same issue for months now. It doesn't leak enough to drip, but my starter and bell housing are always covered in oil. When I pulled the inspection plate there was no oil at all near the TQ converter. When I pulled the turbo there was no oil at all of the pedestal or firewall. I changed the pedestal o-rings just in case though. I also see oil up in the valley, but it does not look wet so I don't think it is fresh.

It has been driving me nuts for months, and am about out of ideas. I'll get some pics up to show you what I am talking about...

 

[91turbogsx]

If its already on the stand and your chasing an oil leak it's cheap insurance to just redo the cover plate and change the rear main. Can't think of a reason why you wouldn't. It's pretty easy.

 

[Dieselboy.]

91 you could be right. But now I have the sleeve on the crank. I guess just pry it off.

Ill call Ford or INTL and get a price tomorrow. Im tired of leaks. I pulled the pan, the silicone didnt even bond to the pan surface on half of the pan flange.

Jbone I hear ya, the biggest hurdle is you cant see with the trans in. I tried feeling around the flexplate and got nowhere. So for the 2nd time in 5000km my new motor is on a stand. If it leaks again Im welding the ***r on

 

[91turbogsx]

Problem I notice when people take the oil pan off they pry it off and end up bending the flange or deforming the oil pan. There is a very minimal amount of bolts to fasten it compared to how much surface area there is so any deformity will affect the seal.

While its on the stand just spend the money now to get all the seals or potential leak points freshened up to make it easy on yourself.

 

[Justin@DP-Tuner]

91 you could be right. But now I have the sleeve on the crank. I guess just pry it off.

Ill call Ford or INTL and get a price tomorrow. Im tired of leaks. I pulled the pan, the silicone didnt even bond to the pan surface on half of the pan flange.

Jbone I hear ya, the biggest hurdle is you cant see with the trans in. I tried feeling around the flexplate and got nowhere. So for the 2nd time in 5000km my new motor is on a stand. If it leaks again Im welding the ***r on

Yeah. I look for that damn leak at least once a week. The problem is you can only see so much when it's sitting in the truck. Like I said, mine never leaks enough to actually drip, but everything is covered in oil under there. It drives me crazy. I am beginning to think I just hit a pot hole filled with oil somewhere. That would make more sense to me...

 

[Powerstroked162]

Buy a new pan and rear cover from ford with that new rear main seal. Make sure everything(not that it should matter where you're at) is up to bonding temp pre/post application. Don't take any chances this time, be anal

 

[Dieselboy.]

Ya no doubt, I was anal the second time. I cleaned the chit out of both surfaces and scotch brited it. My biggest gripe is I can't get it out of the tube fast enough. My friend helped me I squeezed and he rubbed it out to get the whole surface on block and pan. And when I pulled it. Stuck to hell on the block. Nothing but a film on the pan.

Jbone. Apparently barsleak makes a rear main repair re seal product lol. I wonder LOL

 

[Justin@DP-Tuner]

I about ready to just use gear oil instead on motor oil. Maybe the thickness of the oil will stop the leak LOL

 

[Dieselboy.]

75w140 FTW

 

[Powerstroked162]

Are you using a caulk gun?

 

[91turbogsx]

Ya no doubt, I was anal the second time. I cleaned the chit out of both surfaces and scotch brited it. My biggest gripe is I can't get it out of the tube fast enough. My friend helped me I squeezed and he rubbed it out to get the whole surface on block and pan. And when I pulled it. Stuck to hell on the block.

As Powerstroked162 inquired you should be using a caulking gun. I usually just run a continuous thick bead and install it. No smoothing it out or anything. I just make sure I get a good "squeeze" and all is well. Goes pretty quick.

 

[Dieselboy.]

No I bought it in the small squeeze tubes cause I only have 1 engine and couldn't justify 120$ tube of it...

 

[91turbogsx]

I pay like $25-$30 a tube from Ford. I don't know what your buying but your getting screwed.

 

[Powerstroked162]

No way should it be $120.... Grab a bottle of you can find it cheaper. Online maybe or hit up Sunrise Ford and get a bottle. Caulk gun is the only way to apply a good, consistent bead.

 

[PowerstrokeJunkie]

valve cover ?

 

[neverkickn]

I pay like $25-$30 a tube from Ford. I don't know what your buying but your getting screwed.

No way should it be $120.... Grab a bottle of you can find it cheaper. Online maybe or hit up Sunrise Ford and get a bottle. Caulk gun is the only way to apply a good, consistent bead.

He is a little north of the border.

 

[Powerstroked162]

Why did I think he was in Texas??.... Anywho, Sunrise will ship it