S366 VS Full Force BASB Bell 300 series Turbo

Swaan

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Soooo what how does the HFSB compare? That's what im running

Good question, but no one will ever know unless somebody takes a turbo apart and starts measuring wheel sizes and such.
Pius at bell keeps his turbos top secret, just goes by hp ratings.

The hf has a bigger hp rating then the ba so could be a bigger a/r on the exaust or bigger turbine or bigger compressor. Who knows. Trying to get actual specs is like winning the lottery.
My guess it's probley a 66mm variant of the ba.
 

Swaan

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My 364.5 fmw I ordered thru works turbochargers.
It started out a box 362 fmw, they machined the comp housing and put the 64.5 wheel in it.
It's got the 68mm turbine with the 1.00 a/r housing.

I'm having same results as most on this forum who are running the basb from bell.
It spools fast and I can lug the truck on a hard pull down to 1500 rpm and still stay under 1200 egts. Couldn't do that before with my s366.
I can cruise pulling 10,000 lbs nicely at 10 psi boost 1800 rpm with egts around 1000.
My 366 would be at 1200 almost all the time.

Overall it cost me about the same as a bell turbo but I got it built in a week.
 

gnxtc2

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Very old thread, but curious as to how everyone's setups are doing. Mism my ole 96
Doing fine....use the OBS for light towing and day trips. Use the dually for the heavy towing from a safety stand point but the OBS does come out of retirement if need be 💪.


Billy T
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Powerstroke Cowboy

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I'm in need of a transmission and clutch to work properly. The plan is to switch it to auto. Other then that, it runs good.
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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Properly? Would a fresh rebuild and clutch not do just that?

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It would, hence the reason I said I need a transmission and clutch.

I'm not pursuing that route since I'm switching it to am auto. To be honest I'm tired of the heavy pedal needed to hold the hp. I also don't feel like DD and towing with a sintered iron clutch.
 

psduser1

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It would, hence the reason I said I need a transmission and clutch.

I'm not pursuing that route since I'm switching it to am auto. To be honest I'm tired of the heavy pedal needed to hold the hp. I also don't feel like DD and towing with a sintered iron clutch.
If you can find a clutch builder besides of the shelf offerings, a dual disc ceramic/organic button clutch with a true 3600 lb rating will hold anything you want to tow, and the pedal will be reasonable. I'm not sure that you'll get those results with off the shelf clutches tho, necessarily.
A lot of the stuff sold over the counter doesn't always show the advertised plate load, and that includes the big name guys.
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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If you can find a clutch builder besides of the shelf offerings, a dual disc ceramic/organic button clutch with a true 3600 lb rating will hold anything you want to tow, and the pedal will be reasonable. I'm not sure that you'll get those results with off the shelf clutches tho, necessarily.
A lot of the stuff sold over the counter doesn't always show the advertised plate load, and that includes the big name guys.

I have thought about trying what you suggest. If all I needed/wanted was a towing clutch I could make an off the shelf dual disk clutch work. My problem is I want the ability to hook to a sled and leave the line with 4k plus rpms without worrying about the clutch. I have no plans to run down a strip.

I also want the pickup to be easy for others to drive if the need should arise. An auto just looks like a simple, but costly solution. I already have most of the parts needed for the conversion. Se odds and ends on the electrical side and a billet flex plate and I should be able bolt and wire it up.
 

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