School me on differentials

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Had a customer complain about a "slight" noise coming from the rear of his truck. Took it down the road and the rear end sounded like a tub grinder with a steel plate in it. I pulled the diff cover and only got about a half a quart of fluid out which stunk to high heavens like burnt sulfur. Had the consistency of water but not much metal. A little bit of very fine metal but nothing out of normal range. Cleaned the gears up and this is what I found.
The metal on the plug is a little excessive but other than that no abundance of metal in the differential itself

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[GO BIG OR GO HOME]

Looks to me like the pinon gear has walked into the main housing and eat it up. Is this due to a pinon bearing failure?

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[tbsimmons]

Looks to me like the pinon gear has walked into the main housing and eat it up. Is this due to a pinon bearing failure?

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Pinion problem. Put the truck in neutral and set the brake. Turn the driveshaft and see how much play. The way the ring gear and carrier look I bet it will be a lot and will also move in and out some.
I have seen this occur also when the pinion nut came loose.

 

[suprhlr]

Pinion bearing probably went out due to lack of fluid, time for a gear set and all new bearings

 

[Vader's Fury]

Pinion bearing probably went out due to lack of fluid, time for a gear set and all new bearings

And seals

 

[GO BIG OR GO HOME]

Pinion problem. Put the truck in neutral and set the brake. Turn the driveshaft and see how much play. The way the ring gear and carrier look I bet it will be a lot and will also move in and out some.
I have seen this occur also when the pinion nut came loose.

It has enough slack in it that I know it's toast lol it's enough that it will slam violently when going from reverse to drive and vice versa

Pinion bearing probably went out due to lack of fluid, time for a gear set and all new bearings

And seals

That's what I was thinking also. I've never rebuilt a differential, just never had the need to. Getting it apart will be no problem and I understand how everything needs to be set up when trying to go back together. Anyone willing to share any real world knowledge of rebuilding this? Any suggestions on who to get a rebuild kit from?

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Also can anyone help me with the meaning of the stamps in the gear? I know the 10.25 is the rear end size but what does the rest mean?

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[THETANK01]

Oriellys carries a rebuild kit from national I believe. Gotta know the gear size though.

 

[CSIPSD]

It a set of 4.56 gears... The rest is just part numbers and such...

Lifted truck I assume?

 

[GO BIG OR GO HOME]

It a set of 4.56 gears... The rest is just part numbers and such...

Lifted truck I assume?

Yes it's on 38s. I'm going to assume that the "L" is for locker?

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Getting it apart will be no problem and I understand how everything needs to be set up when trying to go back together. Anyone willing to share any real world knowledge of rebuilding this?

This came out completely wrong. What I meant to say is I can take it apart and I understand that it HAS to be set up correctly when going back in. This is where I need some knowledge

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[Wes Lewis]

Yes it's on 38s. I'm going to assume that the "L" is for locker?

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Not necessiraly, I don't think the carrier type would be stamped on the gears. The number scribed into the gear is the mating number, the pinion should have the same number in it. The manufacturer puts them together at the factory and marks them as a "set."

Get a steel spacer and shims instead of the crush washer on the pinion. Makes set up easier

 

[tbsimmons]

This is the way I set up gears, everyone has a way though.
I use the old bearings and bore them out some so they will slide on and off easily on the pinion.
Put the pinion in then the carrier, I only set the depth with the pinon not backlash.
Once you get the shims right for the pinion press the new bearing on and install the pinion.
For the carrier install it and set the back lash with the shims. I do it by feel most of the time to get it close then use a mic.
If you kept all the shims that came I out I bet it would be really close if you just put them all back in the same spots.

 

[GO BIG OR GO HOME]

This is the way I set up gears, everyone has a way though.
I use the old bearings and bore them out some so they will slide on and off easily on the pinion.
Put the pinion in then the carrier, I only set the depth with the pinon not backlash.
Once you get the shims right for the pinion press the new bearing on and install the pinion.
For the carrier install it and set the back lash with the shims. I do it by feel most of the time to get it close then use a mic.
If you kept all the shims that came I out I bet it would be really close if you just put them all back in the same spots.

I'll be disassembling it today and I'll make sure to keep the shims organized.

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[CSIPSD]

The gears could care less what is in it. The L is just part of the part number. Only thing you need to concern yourself with is a set of 10.25 gears for a 10.25.

Is this in a SD or OBS? OBS is 10.25, SD is 10.5, but you can use the 10.25 gears, just have to have the right install kit.

 

[GO BIG OR GO HOME]

The gears could care less what is in it. The L is just part of the part number. Only thing you need to concern yourself with is a set of 10.25 gears for a 10.25.

Is this in a SD or OBS? OBS is 10.25, SD is 10.5, but you can use the 10.25 gears, just have to have the right install kit.

This is SD 03 250 7.3

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[GO BIG OR GO HOME]

The gears could care less what is in it. The L is just part of the part number. Only thing you need to concern yourself with is a set of 10.25 gears for a 10.25.

Is this in a SD or OBS? OBS is 10.25, SD is 10.5, but you can use the 10.25 gears, just have to have the right install kit.

this is what's in it now

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[GO BIG OR GO HOME]

Ok I've been doing some learning this morning lol.
The "L" after the 456 indicates the long pinion that's used in the Gen2 10.25 and 10.5 housings.
I've found the proper kits for rebuilding it but I still have a couple questions.
1) would you suggest replacing the carrier in this situation with the damage that's done to it?
2) I've priced Yukon parts which I know are top notch but G2 brand are substantially cheaper. Anyone have any reviews of these gears?
3) someone spoke about not using the crush sleeve and getting steel spacer and shims for the pinion. Care to explain to me a little further about this and how do I get it?
4) Do you normally just use a hone to open up the old bearings for setup?

Thanks

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Carrier damage

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More carnage pictures

Opinions or answers to the questions I asked earlier?

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