Snow Water Meth nozzles

pistonbully

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Looking for Nozzle size options for the snow stage 3.
Kit comes stock with a #3 (175ml) nozzle a #5 (375 ml) nozzle and a #6 (625 ml) nozzle.
What are you guys running? :shocked:
 

6.0 Tech

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I know for the stage 2 they base it off of horsepower for nozzle selection. What else is done to the truck?

There should be guidelines in the manual about how to choose sizes. I am running a 375 and a 625 currently, a my tow tuning should be around 400-450 horse. It is most likely under tuned on the race tune, but i didnt want to bother changing nozzles all the time.

Once again, this is on a sage 2, stage 3 may be completely different.
 

pistonbully

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Truck has H&S air intake, wicked wheel 2, banks technicooler, egr ******, thumper HPOP with HPODS, GOGO intake, 6.4 banjo's, blue spring, regulated return, Hercules ficm tune, PHP ecm tuning, ******** tunes and soon Meth.
About all the manual says is if you see white smoke reduce nozzle size.
There really isnt much info on this, so far all i have found is 2 setups, both stage 2. One running 800 ml at 100% and yours with 1000 ml at 100%. With this stage 3 the nozzles that come with it from factory it will put out 1175 ml at 100%.
This system came out of a friends 6.4 he ran it for a few months then his engine failed, He swears it was the water/meth that washed a cylinder down and caused the failure, so we are thinking maybe we should start with a little less spray.
 

sootie

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you would never catch me running water meth...you should see what it does to the insides of a six four.

Why not just size your injector nozzles and turbo correctly and get good tunes?
 

6.0 Tech

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In my opinion, if you spray the correct amount, you should not have an issue. I had my snow on, same nozzle size, stock fuel and air with idp xtreme street tunes for about 8 months running it every day and playing with it on a regular basis. I then tore the motor apart after blowing the head gaskets again, bittom end looked fine. If you are over spraying it, or have your boost numbers set way too close together, so you are dumping 100% duty cycle.too early you will probably have problems. Run it for about a month, then pull your oil filter and see if there is moisture. Kind of a redneck way to test, but itll tell you if you got too much. I have turned it on too early (engine temp wise), and it runs like **** when the kit kicks on and it smokes like crazy. It is quenching yhe cylinders, and will probably cause the issues sootie is talking about. Like anything, it is all in setup. Hell nitrous will blow your chit up if you do it wrong. And i do realize 8 month may not have been enough tim to see the issues, but uts what i had.

Also as far as nozzle selection with yhe kit, they giv you more for different power levels. I have an extra 625 in my tool box that came with the kit that i did not install, as i did not need that much.
 

strokin6L

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I've been running Snows stage 2 for nearly 9 years with zero issues. It won't rust a motor if you know what the hell you're doing. Running a 225ml/min and a 625ml/min nozzles. I run windshield washer fluid mixed with water soluable cutting oil to keep pump and solenoid lubricated.
 

pistonbully

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What im thinking is from 800 ml to 1000 ml is a good range to work with. As for rust if everything is good and your not shutting the truck down right after spraying all should be good. Water pump rust inhibitor is always an option as some guys on this forum have suggested.
 

Charles

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I've been running Snows stage 2 for nearly 9 years with zero issues. It won't rust a motor if you know what the hell you're doing. Running a 225ml/min and a 625ml/min nozzles. I run windshield washer fluid mixed with water soluable cutting oil to keep pump and solenoid lubricated.

The water soluble oil is WHY you don't see a problem..... and you don't even know it!

Without any oil in the water the cylinder heads WILL look like they have been left outside in the rain on teardown.

It's real simple, just run a water soluble oil, then run the smallest nozzle(s) you can that keep the EGT where you want it.

Other than that, just make sure you have a solenoid right at the injection point so that you don't risk a hydro if you park on a steep hill, plus no dribbling.


Yes, I've torn down engines and seen insane rust. Only one of them had started picking up blowby. Twice it was my own engine, driven every single day.

Started running cutting oil from Napa and never had another issue.

In fact, adding the cutting oil to an engine already with increased blowby calmed it back down and the blowby went back to normal after a few weeks.

Water alone is a serious problem. Anybody that says otherwise hasn't ever had the heads back off, has their CCV in a position that they cannot see, injects almost nothing anyway or just doesn't have many miles on the setup.

Fwiw, I ran 2 of the largest nozzles they offered with two pumps to have any effect on EGT.

I later ran a pressure washer pump on a 12v starter motor mounted to the frame with stainless steel pressure washer nozzles in order to overcome 90 to 100 lbs of boost and still have enough pressure to inject enough water to matter. Ran about 350psi water pressure on that setup with two nozzles at the engine and one nozzle after the first stage turbo that kicked on when the first stage was over 20lbs.

Worked perfectly, and with the cutting oil, no rust was in my heads at all, and no blowby issues.

Injection quantity means nothing. OIL means everything. Sure you can start too early, or God forbid run the thing based on EGT :doh: and hydro your engine, but just don't do that. Was talking to a guy back in the day about controlling the water and he warned me against EGT (although I never even considered that an option) saying that he was rolling on the power and the EGT came up enough to kick too many nozzles at once (without much boost) and the engine hiccuped for a second and snapped the input shaft on the trans!

Always run off of boost pressure IMO. Maybe a second or third stage nozzle on EGT.... maybe... at least on a street engine where blowing white smoke and drowning things out like a mod puller with a gallon of water in the crank that will get changed out after each run anyway isn't exactly acceptable.
 

strokin6L

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Yup mine is set to start at 15psi and full at 30psi. Has worked flawlessly and noticed a good bit of power increase and lower egts!
 

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