speaker queations

[ruffneck7.3]

I have an 01 350, I'm re-doing my stereo, and was wondering if anyone has used those scosche adapters from the 5x7 to a 6.5 round speaker? I'm looking at these

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8932-15...erence-coaxial-speakers-w-swivel-tweeter.aspx

Only other question is the amp I'm gonna do is a Rockford fosgate p600.2 would I need to upgrade from 4 gauge wire? Currently my setup is a pioneer 800w monoblock, but it's a pile and keeps cutting out, and 2 memphis 10's rated at 250rms

 

[jdc753]

I have never used the adapters but would be curious to see them if you have a link?


Ultimately you should be able to drop those speakers right in and just drill, or use self tappers for the new screw holes.


Or if you are up to it, a pro shop will build its own "speaker baffle" or trim ring as they can be called. These are made out of MDF which is accoustically dead, so it not only adapts the speaker hole size, but it also seals up excess space in the opening, and decouples the speakers vibrations from the door sheet metal, reducing vibration and resonance in the steel. Usually these rings are treated with fiberglass resin or bedliner since MDF will suck and retain moisture.

I don't have any examples from our trucks handy, but this should give you an idea. And for our trucks they are pretty simple. Last set I built I used 1/2" MDF since 3/4" pushed the speaker too close to the door panel. Then recessed the hole and used the factory speaker bolts to mount the ring to the door and then the speaker simply screwed into the mdf with standard screws.

4awg wire should be more than enough for that amplifier, you could even get away with 8awg. Quick rule of thumb is to compare the total fuse rating on the amplifier(s) you plan to install, with the fuse rating on the wire itself.

 

[ruffneck7.3]

http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-Convertible-6-x-8-Speaker-Adapter/10756157

Ok I've just read that that amp is under rated on the power... I had the 300w rms version years ago, when they were new, and it sure didn't hit like a 300w amp lol... I loved the Hell outta it until it got stolen

 

[jdc753]

Those will definitely work, but I honestly would just see if you can drop the speakers in and have enough metal to bolt them down. I have dropped in 6.75" mids without any changes, just drive screws in on the sides (open gap top/bottom)


Sucks it got stolen, most quality amps will bench a good bit over their ratings, but as for the power wire that bump over the rating won't matter much. Either way should be a solid setup.

 

[ruffneck7.3]

Thanks for the input.. one more question, what would be a quality 2 farad capacitor? I've been eying up the one fosgate puts out

 

[jdc753]

Just say no to the capacitor...


A cap is nothing more than a bandaid or a tiny battery, if anything they might mask minor issues in a electrical system that can be easily remedied. Weak grounds or small chassis grounds or charging wires. If you get to the point where you are having electrical issues there are a few steps to take that will actually address the issue.


For example in my 05 6leaker, I have a single alternator package and run a 1500w subwoofer amp, and then a 100x4 speaker amp and have no dimming issues.

 

[ruffneck7.3]

I liked having one, because in my mind, I think it would put a little less stress on the charging system.. what could I do to help with the dimming? Change the charging wires?

 

[jdc753]

The caps actually put a little more strain on the charging system. What they are is essentially a really small battery. So every time they discharge they require being recharged

I wouldn't imagine you having any dimmer issues till you at least triple your power output


The first step to correcting a dimming issue if there is one is what is referred to as "The Big Three" What is is is upgrading the factory primary charging and ground wires to 1/0awg wire.

1.) Charging wire from the alternator to the battery
2.) Engine ground wire to the chassis
3.) Battery ground wire to the chassis


upgrading these 3 wires (more in our case since we have 2 batteries) will improve the charging pipe line to reduce dimming. From there as long as the rest of the wiring in the audio system is up to snuff the next upgrades would be either a deep cell battery like an Optima Yellow Top or a car audio battery like a Kinetik XSpower Stinger etc and place that near the large subwoofer amp, and/or upgrade the alternator to one that will produce more amps.