Instructions that are the same:
1) Drain the coolant (2 gallons from the passenger side. 3 from the driver's side)
2) Unplug the battery
3) Remove the airbox (or after market Intake)
4) Remove the overflow line clamps (stick a small screwdriver into the crimp and twist, this will release the clamp.) Remove the line that heads to the egr and barb together the 2 remaining lines
5) Remove the 2 exhaust pipes
6) Unplug all of the sensors and unplug and cap the vacuum line.
7) Remove the 2 bolts holding the wiring harness bracket on the front of the cooler
All of the above can be found in pictures in the H&S instructions.
The differences with the '15s:
1) Remove the stock heater hose that runs from the overflow tank and down to just above the temperature sensor on the passenger side of the rad. Use the supplied radiator hose to reconnect between these two nipples. I had to trim 11 inches off mine to get a nice fit. That does not absolutely have to be done as it's a 1:1 swap, but I hated that stock hose with all of it's bends and twists. I reused the factory clamps, but you can also use the hose clamps in the kit. I also cut a small section of the extra hose and used it as a carrier to contact the top of the fan shroud.
2) There are 6 8MM bolts that hold the egr cooler in place. On the rear driver's side, undo the 10mm nut and lift the bracket out of the way with a long screw driver - then there is a 12mm stud that was underneath the 10mm nut that is the last stud holding down the egr cooler. I used my 1/4 inch drive, a 9" extension, a 3" extension, a knuckle and a deep socket to get at the 12mm stud.
3) On the rear passenger side egr cooler nut, it may be necessary to remove the bracket that holds the PCM connectors - I did on mine so that I could get a better grip on the nut and extract it from the egr cooler.
4) The FoMoCo retro hose needs to be run from the pipe next to the turbo down the lower heater core nipple in the firewall.
To get the original out, from the top of the engine, reach back to the firewall and cut the ziptie retaining the hose.
The only way to get it is from underneath by partially removing the wheel well liner. Mine (original hose connector that goes to the heater core) was a real pita to get off. There is a foam gasket and the connector was sunk into that and into the firewall. I used my finger for the top pinch and a screwdriver to depress the clip on the bottom.
5) Be real careful when extracting the cooler. You will be reusing the rubber gaskets on the coolant ports on the manifold. On mine, the top locator pin stayed with the egr cooler as it came out and could have ripped into the rubber gasket. I had no idea that was going on working the unit out. Also, I took my time and watched the rail, too.
Use dielectric grease and I also used electrical tape to secure the vacuum fitting when tying everything off.
Hope this helps...
1) Drain the coolant (2 gallons from the passenger side. 3 from the driver's side)
2) Unplug the battery
3) Remove the airbox (or after market Intake)
4) Remove the overflow line clamps (stick a small screwdriver into the crimp and twist, this will release the clamp.) Remove the line that heads to the egr and barb together the 2 remaining lines
5) Remove the 2 exhaust pipes
6) Unplug all of the sensors and unplug and cap the vacuum line.
7) Remove the 2 bolts holding the wiring harness bracket on the front of the cooler
All of the above can be found in pictures in the H&S instructions.
The differences with the '15s:
1) Remove the stock heater hose that runs from the overflow tank and down to just above the temperature sensor on the passenger side of the rad. Use the supplied radiator hose to reconnect between these two nipples. I had to trim 11 inches off mine to get a nice fit. That does not absolutely have to be done as it's a 1:1 swap, but I hated that stock hose with all of it's bends and twists. I reused the factory clamps, but you can also use the hose clamps in the kit. I also cut a small section of the extra hose and used it as a carrier to contact the top of the fan shroud.
2) There are 6 8MM bolts that hold the egr cooler in place. On the rear driver's side, undo the 10mm nut and lift the bracket out of the way with a long screw driver - then there is a 12mm stud that was underneath the 10mm nut that is the last stud holding down the egr cooler. I used my 1/4 inch drive, a 9" extension, a 3" extension, a knuckle and a deep socket to get at the 12mm stud.
3) On the rear passenger side egr cooler nut, it may be necessary to remove the bracket that holds the PCM connectors - I did on mine so that I could get a better grip on the nut and extract it from the egr cooler.
4) The FoMoCo retro hose needs to be run from the pipe next to the turbo down the lower heater core nipple in the firewall.
To get the original out, from the top of the engine, reach back to the firewall and cut the ziptie retaining the hose.
The only way to get it is from underneath by partially removing the wheel well liner. Mine (original hose connector that goes to the heater core) was a real pita to get off. There is a foam gasket and the connector was sunk into that and into the firewall. I used my finger for the top pinch and a screwdriver to depress the clip on the bottom.
5) Be real careful when extracting the cooler. You will be reusing the rubber gaskets on the coolant ports on the manifold. On mine, the top locator pin stayed with the egr cooler as it came out and could have ripped into the rubber gasket. I had no idea that was going on working the unit out. Also, I took my time and watched the rail, too.
Use dielectric grease and I also used electrical tape to secure the vacuum fitting when tying everything off.
Hope this helps...
