STUPID STUPID STUPID

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Charles

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Oh boy....

Racer, get a grip. I said that the protec sheathing melted OFF of that hose. If you knew what you think you do about hoses you would know what protec sheathing is...

Here:

NHS.jpg




It isn't the hose itself, it is an abrasion resistant cover much like what split loom or the spiral plastic looms are often used for.


Where a couple of the lines pass directly under the housing on the 38R those covers have melted away from the hose itself in a few places from the YEARS and YEARS of 1800+ degree exhaust temps. The lines themselves however have no leaks and have been on and off roughly one half of a zillion times since I made them up. If they were cracked then the contortionist twisting as the regulator dangled from them as the engine was turned upside down on the stand, or when they get thrown in the bottom of a box with high pressure oil pumps, brackets and bolts all on top of them whenever the engine has been torn down they would be leaking now. It's not as if they went on the engine and just sat there. They see an environment with not one, but two turbochargers and an exposed 3" pipe carrying exhaust straight over the engine itself and they live. That's pretty much worse-case scenario for a 7.3L engine fuel delivery application.

If you want to make up hoses that are suited for delivering fuel to a Saturn V rocket and install them on your trans cooler then that is your call. Maybe you would also like to promote beryllium cases for the 4r100 too.

If you've got a problem with stainless braided line from Aeroquip I think you need to take a couple Valium and learn to ignore the voices in your head.
 

Charles

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Also, feel free to send me a transmission if you want me to break it for you over and over again driving to and from work.

Depending on where you're at now you should expect to get your first unit back for autopsy somewhere between 2 to 6 months. I would love to see your face when you saw that it not only failed a hard part catestrophically, but that it had also burned the clutches.... meaning the line pressure was not too high, the trans just bailed.

I have a stock ford V-10 cooler with a set of factory ford hard lines. The trans has never been out of the 170's on temp as the paint on the PI converter also confirms each time.

So you think you can do better than Brian? Send me a trans. I will gladly let that GT55 eat it day in and day out, week after week, month after month.

Then I'll stick it in a box and send it back to you as many times as you want to keep sending a replacement. Just have a backup ready so I don't have to wait for you to scratch your head trying to figure out what went wrong each time.
 
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Tom S

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Where do you find that cover material Charles?
 

Charles

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Where do you find that cover material Charles?


Just about every hydraulic supply store I go to has them. We'll have to wait and see whether or not they are deemed worthy by Racer before I comment further on them. For all I know using them on lines carrying less than 100psi at less than 200 degrees they may cause your first born to have three legs and one eye because they can't hold 800,000psi working pressure at 4500 degree fluid temperature on the surface of venus or something equally irrelevant.
 

Charles

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I'm trying to find data to support the idea that the aeroquip stainless outerbraid hose is junk but considering the billions of miles of it on racecars around the world it's making it hard for me. When I walk through the pits watching Top Fuel cars torn down all I see are aeroquip startlite and the braided race hose I linked on everything. And we're talking about running some diesel fuel or some ATF on a pickup here like it's the end of the world?

AEROQUIP PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS

We Know It Because We Make It!

For more than 60 years, Aeroquip® Performance Products has been the number one choice of racing enthusiasts around the world.

Eaton’s Aeroquip Performance Products is the only leading performance plumbing supplier that engineers and manufactures its own hose and fittings.
State-of-the-art testing capabilities and ISO 9001 and QS9000 quality certified facilities are Eaton hallmarks.
A 100,000-plus square foot Central Distribution Facility sends product out the door—when and where it is needed.
Aeroquip AQP inner tube used in the majority of our performance hoses is scientifically superior—allowing fluid and ambient temperatures of 300° F with no loss in performance and unmatched fluid compatibility.
Contingency programs with NHRA, IHRA and several other industry associations around the country, providing support to a wide range of racers.
With the largest pool of engineering resources in the industry, Eaton’s Aeroquip Performance Products is the industry leader in product quality and development.

With these critical advantages, a pipeline full of new Aeroquip Performance Products and our unmatched marketing support, we are ready and excited about continuing six decades of industry leadership well into the new millennium.
 
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Charles

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I typed in all sorts of things, like aeroquip hose cracking, and aqp hose cracking, aeroquip race hose leaking and I legitimately don't see anything, much less a trend. So if it's happening, people aren't talking about it.

I did manage to find detailed spec sheets for every type of Aeroquip AQP elastomer hose made though. The race hose uses an AQP elastomer inner tube. I fail to see the problem, yet again.

For anyone interested in the data for the type of inner tube I suggested, here is a PDF:

http://powerflex-fhp.nl/local/anniecms/1/images/AQP_.pdf


And for the specific racing products catalog:

http://www.hydraulicseaton.com.cn/gb/product/pdfs/A-SPPE-MC001-E.pdf


2589434520082519711S600x600Q85.jpg
 
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Charles

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I found a post on LS1TECH about a guy that had a "socketless" hose leak, and a case where a guy running the line I suggested having it weeping after 17 years of service on an old cobra. Both running gasoline.

What I don't see is massive numbers of cases of failure. In fact, nearly all results are people talking about how durable and reliable the race hose is.


And yes.... I've been searching this whole time. I give up. If this was a widespread problem there would be zillions of people talking about it given the potential safety issues involved with fuel lines especially.

I think I will continue using both the socketless and the AQP race hose with confidence. If it burns down I will buy another truck.
 

Charles

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Tom... if you're keeping up with this thread, just delete my entire presence here.

Leave Racer's response if you want. I don't feel like being a part of this. One guy is trying to plumb his fuel delivery like he's connecting an ice-maker and another is convinced that Aeroquip race hose is junk and that a trans cooler should receive the same plumbing as a rocket engine.

Someone delete me from this thread. It's a train wreck.
 

mjonesjr

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I will have to look into those covers. I have about 1.5" of rubber hose under the pedistal on my truck. The hose is about 2" away from the pedistal and about 3/4" off the block.
 

Racer X

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Tom... if you're keeping up with this thread, just delete my entire presence here.

Leave Racer's response if you want. I don't feel like being a part of this. One guy is trying to plumb his fuel delivery like he's connecting an ice-maker and another is convinced that Aeroquip race hose is junk and that a trans cooler should receive the same plumbing as a rocket engine.

Someone delete me from this thread. It's a train wreck.

Tom or whoever is moderating:

Please Do Not Delete Charles' rambling and contradictory posts. He shouldn't get to post misleading information that does damage to others that can't be undone and then have his blunders removed so he can save face. It's obvious he has plenty of time to use the internet for his "research" and knows now he has goofed. Please, Let this Professional respond so others won't be mislead as he was, by the misleading advertising he read and posted.

These types of misleading posts are why other Independent Professionals Like BTS and John Wood do not bother to post anymore. We hope that we can continue to contribute Professional content and comments and won't ever reach the point that we feel it's a waste of our time or "why even bother".
Thank you.


`
 

Irishcream

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Engine bay needs one hell of a wash after all the diesel that has leaked out over the life of the truck. I may change the length running under the turbo on the passenger side to steel just in case the heat is too much. I isolated the drivers side line against the intake bracket off the valve cover. The t fitting sits on the factory steel 3/8ths line that is also clamped to the block from factory. I know some guys are thinking I am going the wrong direction and that's fine. You are entitled to your opinions. I value all the input from all members and use as much information I can get. I know the copper will not corrode from the diesel, I have isolated the lengths to prevent too much movement, the hose is rated well over what pressure I am running. The only part I am not too sure on is the temperature but if the factory ran steel flexible line in the same fashion then I don't see any issues with doing it this way. It is a lot cleaner looking than hoses and hoe clamps, it leaves the valley free of any obstructions, it's cost efficient and is easy to fix. I cannot afford to purchase hundreds of dollars in specialty fittings. I am not running it down the track or taking it up mountain sides so for ease of installation, cost and ease of maintenance this is the route I've chosen to take. If it lasts for years to come then great, it works. If it fails then I can take it from there.
 

PsRumors

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where are the flaws in the way I've done this? I'd really like to know.

As that copper tubing bends ever so slightly from the vibrations of the engine along with the heating and cooling affect from being in the valley it will become "annealed". Once copper is annealed it is not very strong and will become brittle.

Think about this, how many high pressure fuel systems today use copper tubing?

If you stay this route make sure the tubing is secured and not rubbing on anything. It is very easy to rub a hole in copper tubing.
 

Irishcream

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The lines are secure, copper melts at 1983 degrees F so the heat isn't any issue. Corrosion is not an issue, So maybe the "annealed" effect is a worry but over what length of time? if it takes 10 years then I think I will manage. The diesel grade fuel lines degrade faster than that. have a look at a set of fuel lines off of any fuel bowl from someone doing their electric fuel conversion. Bet they are full of cracks and are stiff as hell. How many times have you heard of the factory steel lines from the back of the heads to the mechanical fuel pump breaking? I haven't read everything but that doesn't seem to come up too often. those lines are not isolated from vibration yet never seem to have issues. I used vibralock fittings to the head and secured the lines to the block using rubber lined clamps. I'm just not seeing where it's gonna bend and the only rub through spots would be from the rubber clamps.
 

genuineford

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Key word there in red. Steel not copper.

Hopefully you carry some spare copper line with you and extra ferrells for those compression fittings so you can fix the fuel leaks on the side of the road. I am not saying it it going to happen in a week or a month but I bet within a year it will crack and break.

The lines are secure, copper melts at 1983 degrees F so the heat isn't any issue. Corrosion is not an issue, So maybe the "annealed" effect is a worry but over what length of time? if it takes 10 years then I think I will manage. The diesel grade fuel lines degrade faster than that. have a look at a set of fuel lines off of any fuel bowl from someone doing their electric fuel conversion. Bet they are full of cracks and are stiff as hell. How many times have you heard of the factory steel lines from the back of the heads to the mechanical fuel pump breaking? I haven't read everything but that doesn't seem to come up too often. those lines are not isolated from vibration yet never seem to have issues. I used vibralock fittings to the head and secured the lines to the block using rubber lined clamps. I'm just not seeing where it's gonna bend and the only rub through spots would be from the rubber clamps.
 

PsRumors

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Key word there in red. Steel not copper.

Hopefully you carry some spare copper line with you and extra ferrells for those compression fittings so you can fix the fuel leaks on the side of the road. I am not saying it it going to happen in a week or a month but I bet within a year it will crack and break.

My bet it is well before 2011 is finished. Depeding on how much he drives of course.

He is in Winnipeg. Isn't it touted as the coldest city in the world? Just imagine that copper being in underhood temps of several hundred degrees then sitting in sub-zero temps.
 
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