Taking the cab off for warranty work, what else?

Bullzeye · Dec 31, 2014

I have a 2010 that has around 50k, the power train warranty is going to expire, so I dropped it off at the dealership to have the limited slip and a small oil leak look at. They couldn't find anything wrong with the limited slip, (on a rainy day it spins trying to merge into traffic) however they are pulling the cab off, pulling the motor to reseal the rear main. Which is great on the fact that I was about to do a coolant flush and another oil change.
For those of you that know better than I do, this is my first PSD. What other items should I have them address while the cab is off, and the engine is out under the power train warranty? I use this as my daily driver to work and it is going through a filter clean both ways on a 34 mile round trip to work and back. On idle there is a sound from the turbo, that isn't there on a buddy's 2009, his truck has a programmer and DPF delete. I look forward to getting there with mine; the difference in to two trucks is like running a Wal-mart bag over the air filter on mine.
Any thoughts and input would be great. I drop the truck off next week for the cab pull.
Thanks

sootie · Dec 31, 2014

head studs, egr delete, upgraded uppipes or 6.0 manifold conversion

Crazysob · Dec 31, 2014

Lifters rockers push rods. The usual. You have low miles at least so they shouldn't be too bad. I would say throw a coolant filter on there too.

DWhite · Dec 31, 2014

I guess it depends on how deep your pockets are.
You could also upgrade your pistons so you don't have one crack down the road.
It wouldn't be warranty work though, but a good thing to do so you don't have to worry about it.

Bullzeye · Dec 31, 2014

My line of thinking is for the stuff that I could push back on the dealership and the power train warranty. My wants are a lot higher than the pockets are deep for. All of the suggestions are great for the mods on the motor, I would love nothing more than to change out the down pipe while they had the cab off, I don't think that the dealership would do it. And at this moment what are some of the things that I could ask them to check that would fall under the PT warranty to get done while they had it???

Thanks again for the suggestions...

DWhite · Dec 31, 2014

I would say the dealer wouldn't really want to do much warranty work that isn't really needed. If you have a good dealer maybe you can push stuff on them but most of the time I tried they told me if it hasn't failed/caused a failure then they won't replace it. Others may chime in with better knowledge than me.

webb06 · Dec 31, 2014

Something relatively easy they could check is the rocker arms. Have them check for broken exhaust manifold bolts which would be much easier to repair while the engine is out. I'm curious why they're pulling the cab and engine to do a rear main replace?

fine69 · Dec 31, 2014

I was wondering why they would pull the motor to do a rear main also.

DWhite · Dec 31, 2014

Unless they are doing a bedplate re-seal, otherwise I'm like you guys, I seen no reason to pull the motor.

Bullzeye · Dec 31, 2014

DWhite said:
bedplate re-seal

That is exactly the repair, i just simplified it earlier as I couldn't remember what they had said.

They think that it will take them about 4 to 5 days to get the truck back to me...

fine69 · Dec 31, 2014

That makes more sense.

webb06 · Dec 31, 2014

Bullzeye said:
That is exactly the repair, i just simplified it earlier as I couldn't remember what they had said.

They think that it will take them about 4 to 5 days to get the truck back to me...

Makes sense. That's quite a job there

Bullzeye · Jan 1, 2015

I just watched a you tube video on a baseplate reseal.

Again, thanks for all of the suggestions...

Bullzeye · Jan 12, 2015

Update...

I picked up the 2010 PSD F250 today from the dealership after the "bed plate" reseal.
The dealership also had to replace the fuel cooler and hoses, also covered under the powertrain warranty. No deductible... They really took care of me on this...
More to follow in a different thread.

DWhite · Jan 12, 2015

Good to hear man. Glad it worked out.

Bullzeye · Jan 14, 2015

Quick question before I get in touch with the dealership.
The Vacuum pump on the front left of the engine bay, it once only came on if the truck sat for three or more days, now that joker kicks on every time I hit the key.

So the question is: Is there a detail vacuum diagram that I can use to try and locate it without running back to the dealership?

DWhite · Jan 14, 2015

I have one somewhere. I'll try and find it.

But if I remember You should be able to follow the lines from the pump across the engine to the hub solenoid mounted on the passenger side fan then to the hubs. They should be easy to follow and see cracked lines or unplugged. If not you'd need a vacuum tester to find the leak.