The Continuing Saga of Electrical Problems

[JLDickmon]

here's something I can tell you..
DO NOT just stick an alternator on it and fire the truck off to recharge the batteries..
the amount of current needed to recharge two dead batteries cannot be carried through that little bitty output wire...
Dude.. your power cable to the stereo is bigger than that, right?

CHARGE THE BATTERIES
then
hook up the alternator..

 

[DocBar]

If your still in HB avoid Orange County Diesel in Huntington Beach. If you still need an alternator check out DC power in Riverside. Very top notch product. I have one in my truck.

HA Ha!!! I looked at OC Diesel's website and decided to avoid them just based on the amount of ATS crap they peddle. I just flat out do not like ATS at all.

 

[etnies69924]

so im guessing the way to go is replacing the batt cables? and would the dealer be the best place to get them?

 

[Lethalthreat7.3]

I know you said you cleaned and verified the grounds but have you used a DMV to actually test for resistance? Test a bare spot, say on your block away from your ground wire and see if it tests with the same resistance as at the terminal at the engine grounding point. Test for the resistance through the actual neg and pos battery wires.
I didn't have the same problem but close. When testing the cables I could bend, pull on the battery terminals and change the resistance. Visually they seemed ok but I cut them open once I replaced them and the corrosion inside the wire at the battery terminals was really bad.
Caused the charging and starting issues and took out one of my jell-cell batteries.

 

[TARM]

Visually they seemed ok but I cut them open once I replaced them and the corrosion inside the wire at the battery terminals was really bad.
Caused the charging and starting issues and took out one of my jell-cell batteries.

I have had that happen before. Sheathing and cover looked great. Moisture had gotten inside and it as corroded and broken up horribly.

 

[DocBar]

I know you said you cleaned and verified the grounds but have you used a DMV to actually test for resistance? Test a bare spot, say on your block away from your ground wire and see if it tests with the same resistance as at the terminal at the engine grounding point. Test for the resistance through the actual neg and pos battery wires.
I didn't have the same problem but close. When testing the cables I could bend, pull on the battery terminals and change the resistance. Visually they seemed ok but I cut them open once I replaced them and the corrosion inside the wire at the battery terminals was really bad.
Caused the charging and starting issues and took out one of my jell-cell batteries.

I have spot checked a few spots with a dmm but not all of them.

One thing I've found recently is broken wires under the dash where installers did a poor job routing wires for my Viper alarm and ATS co-pilot. One of my up coming projects will be removing the co pilot and redoing the wiring under the dash.

 

[DocBar]

I installed my new Swamps IDM this evening and really like it. Very noticeable improvements in idle quality, throttle response and it's definitely quieter. With 10 minutes of drive time and a couple of WOT runs, I recommend it. I can't wait to drive back home and see how it does over 600 miles. Doing fuel bowl delete and post pump filter this weekend. Also sending the chip back to Matt to get reburned for the 400/200 sticks. They'll go in next weekend.

 

[TyCorr]

I installed my new Swamps IDM this evening and really like it. Very noticeable improvements in idle quality, throttle response and it's definitely quieter. With 10 minutes of drive time and a couple of WOT runs, I recommend it. I can't wait to drive back home and see how it does over 600 miles. Doing fuel bowl delete and post pump filter this weekend. Also sending the chip back to Matt to get reburned for the 400/200 sticks. They'll go in next weekend.

400/200? Lookout man....

 

[DocBar]

400/200? Lookout man....

For what? I have a fully built motor, BTS, all supporting mods and Matt's tunes. All I need to look out for is ullover: :naughty:

400% nozzles would worry me, but 200% nozzles don't. My 250/100's will soon be 400/400's, or bigger, once FFD gets done with them.

 

[TyCorr]

I was referring to the performance gains....

 

[DocBar]

I was referring to the performance gains....

I plan on white knuckles and a perma-grin!!! LOL. Should get me back to around 550-575 with Matt's tunes. I'm at 500 with his on Bill's dyno as compared to 550+ trap speed on David's with the same set up. I'm OK with the more conservative tuning for every day driving, but I will be asking for more in a race tune with the 400/400's and compounds. I'm hoping to get into the high 600's or low 700's. I think the high 600's are more plausible, though.